Yeah. My summer tires are a set of Falken all seasons that don't have a whole lot of tread left on them any more... They certainly made the drive from Boulder to Denver a bit sketchy last night, so when I got home I finally got around to putting the snow tires on. Then I drove around a bit to see the difference, and it was a world of difference. So much grip now!
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Originally posted by flying_violin View PostYeah. My summer tires are a set of Falken all seasons that don't have a whole lot of tread left on them any more... They certainly made the drive from Boulder to Denver a bit sketchy last night, so when I got home I finally got around to putting the snow tires on. Then I drove around a bit to see the difference, and it was a world of difference. So much grip now!
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Originally posted by 325ix View PostWhy does the number of doors dictate the engine size?
Realistically though, it doesn't matter, though with the 3.0 and 3.2 costing the same, why not go big.
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Originally posted by Roland H View PostThe M3 Sedan came in S50B30 initially. The 3.0 is technically the better engine once you put the 3.2 parts on to it.
Well i stand corrected, thought the sedans were 3.2 only.
Agreed the 3L bottom end is slightly sturdier, but for a street car it's not like it matters.
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Originally posted by Roland H View PostThe M3 Sedan came in S50B30 initially. The 3.0 is technically the better engine once you put the 3.2 parts on to it.
Originally posted by 325ix View PostInteresting, I did not know any of these things.
BJ92: 415 produced
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Originally posted by L-ucky-S-ix View PostThe Direzza's Roland sold me ought to be amazing in the snow! For a snow tire I can't wait to tractor around with those 245's.
Originally posted by Eric View Posteh? what is interchanged?
Originally posted by Alex LipowichIf you're really willing to rebuild, and can find some salvage parts, here's what I'd do:
Bore out block to 86.4 if I recall, the bore for the S50B32 pistons, the last size for the 4 choices of 3.0 pistons anyway.
Get a set of B32 pistons, rods, and crank and harmonic balancer.
Shrick 284 intake cam, keep your exhaust cam as is, save some money.
Find the bottom half of a B32 cylinderhead and its throttle bodies.
Consider getting the intake trumpets off a 3.2 car too, they are shorter, more HP, and with extra displacement from stroke, you'll have more torque, some might argue to keep the 3.0 ones, and build even more torque. You could tune both ways, and compare I guess.
Find someone to retune the existing dme/vanos computers you have, they are the older chip models, easier to work with anyway.
(you mentioned the 3.2 oilpan pump upgrade, that is smart for the track.)
Add the crank pulley from S54, mill off the AC portion. Find underdrive pulley's for alternator and WP. Find someone who sells a EPS system (just kidding on that!)
Use the 1.3 head gasket from the 3.2 catalogue. Adjust redline to no more than 8k with the 3.2 cylinderhead.
Do not invest in SS headers or CF intake for starters, the gains are minimal. A proper CF intake MIGHT add 6-8 hp if you can tune for it. SS headers will cost you torque with minimal gain in HP unless you go crazy with CF intake and valve work, springs and rev past 8K. Accusump before ever considering a drysump.
How is that for starters?
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