IMO, you can't do the job properly (read: very likely to have leaks and/or problems) without pulling the head. There aren't any clips that hold that guide on except the guide itself. They probably broke it when they were lifting the head off/on. I did that once... Only once.
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Sounds like a PITA. Good luck!Comment
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When you get done with the front if you are going to do rear subframe stuff I have everything you need, brand new and would let it go for cheap. I also have front control arm bushings and a stock thermostat housing that I am going to return. I'll sell them to you for what pelican charges, you'd just save on the shipping (which could be free anyway, it might not be worth it).JOY IS AN E30...
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Been hard at work:
top chain guide was also broken...
brand new OEM oil pump that came with the car installed
definitely not seeing why you all are saying head removal is a good idea... seems way easier doing it without taking the head off.
lots of goodiezzzz basically everything on the front end is getting replaced. got dr VANOS stage II, fan delete kit, ss brake lines, upgraded tensioner, etc etc.
valve cover just went off to be powder coated matte black... looking forward to seeing the result.
overall this has been a pretty simple job. just waiting on parts to get it all finished up.Comment
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also "finish line racing engines" is engraved on the front of the head. anyone have any experience with them?Comment
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Nice. The E36 is such a dream to work on compared to the E30/E46. Good to see you doing all the while you're in there stuff now, it will pay dividends in the future.
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There is also a shop in Denver called finish line performance so I'm thinking that's where it came from.Comment
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Ran into a couple bits where we had to get a bit crafty today but managed to get all the new guides/chained installed without head removal. I'm going to make a write up on how to do it in the near future.
I don't see how people can say the chains are for life... The chains yea maybe but all of my guides were so brittle it was absurd. The guides should definitely be replaced every 100k IMO.Comment
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The chains are good for 200-250k miles before they begin to stretch enough that it becomes an issue. The tensioners are good for 200k unless they are abused, but if you're in there, you might as well just replace them. I have replaced tensioners on an 88k mile motor before, but forgone them on a 219k motor. It all depends on condition.Comment
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I've never seen a broken guide in an M50-based motor unless it was done by someone removing/reinstalling the head.
However, I'm guessing if the head has been off, the car has gotten very hot at some point in it's life which will definitely make the guides more brittle.
Good luck with sealing the front cover.Comment
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This is very true... It has a new radiator too but had the original plastic impeller water pump.
Seems overheating in the past definitely seems to have been the issue... the guides where literally so brittle I could snap them with my hands.
progress is good:
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for anyone interested in how to get the crank bolt off without BMWs special "locking tool"
all clean
had to take it back off to prime the oil pump though... annoying.
this is done
powder coated
hoping for first start tomorrow... wish me luck!Comment
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So the car is finally running but of course a new issue has come to haunt me...
low oil pressure at idle.
I can't remember if the oil light stayed on with the old oil pump but I'm pretty sure it didn't.... it seems weird to me that the new oil pump would fail but could this be a possibility?
of course the other possibility is rod bearings. i just don't get how it can be something mechanical with how well it runs/quiet it is. there are no odd noises anywhere.
going to put a mechanical gauge on it tomorrow to get an actual reading.
this is so frustrating!Comment
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