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Price check on Vagiclean, aisle five. I repeat: price check on Vagiclean, aisle five. That's Vagiclean. We've got a customer down here with a full-on fallopian fungus. I'm baking a loaf of bread and I think it's sourdough.
Go down the line. So you have no spark (I'll assume you've already tested a plug directly off the coil).
So next test that your coil is getting a steady positive, then see if while cranking you get your negitive signal (you can test this with test light).
Now lets say you have positive but not getting the spark signal negitive to drive the coil:
So why is that? Well perhaps your reference sensor is bad or failing? Check its ohms and if its not in spec replace or swap with a known good one.
If the sensor tests okay I'd start looking at the ECU or wiring to coil and ECU or other sensors. All the information needed to check that stuff out is in a Bentley.
I have seen ECUs blow out, also make sure all your grounds are connected good, you can easily fry your ECU if that for whatever reason is not conneted or poor. Also I read something about the alternator not being hooked up or well. While it not being hooked up wouldn't be a problem, it hooked up poorly can as it could add noise or nasty things into the electrical system also possibly messing up the ECU.
Swapping parts is the slow way to fix it, just go thru it slowly and you'll find the fault.
Price check on Vagiclean, aisle five. I repeat: price check on Vagiclean, aisle five. That's Vagiclean. We've got a customer down here with a full-on fallopian fungus. I'm baking a loaf of bread and I think it's sourdough.
Cool, I might be able to tag along but like Matt, most of my experience is with M42, I am picking up an oil pan from BMWM42 on saturday so i may cruise up
Overheating is not motor specific, Ill go look at the car around 5. I sent you a text 5 toes.
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