So I'm coming up on installing MS3 in my Eta, with the intention to eventually swap in an 885 head and I have a couple of questions. I'm starting from a scratch wiring harness (don't worry, I bought the 8' one with labeled wires). I do not ever plan on forced induction, if it matters. Everything is nice and blinky on the stim, so I hope I put it together right.
Besides all that, I've been reading about this stuff for weeks, and I feel like I'm ready to go through with it without blowing anything up. But still, do you guys have any advice? Traps to dodge, maybe something that nobody ever seems to think about?
Thanks in advance.
- Given that I have the whole top half of a B25, will the intake manifold bolt onto the B27 head? I know this won't be any significant performance difference, but it would be way more convenient for a couple of reasons. One, it saves me from having to do any modifications that I might need to do twice. Two, it allows me to clean and prep everything *before* I start taking stuff apart. Might save me some headaches.
- "What modifications?" I hear you asking. Well, where do I put the IAT sensor? I have ordered one of the GM open element ones off of DIYautotune, and I'm reading a lot of different opinions on this. Should I drill and tap a hole in the intake manifold itself, somewhere in the main plenum? This is the thing that I don't want to have to do twice if I don't need to. Alternatively, I can try putting it in the PCV hole in the throttle body, and then just use a vented catch can? Or the intake boot elbow between the TB and the airbox?
- If I do choose to swap out the TB and intake manifold, would it be an issue if I used the 19# injectors standard in the B25 in a B27?
- Just how hot can I expect the TB to get? My TPS adapter plate is 3D printed, but it's PLA, which can get soft and warpy past around 80 degrees Celsius. It looks like the factory TPS case is made out of ABS of some sort. Should I try to reprint with ABS, or maybe try to fabricate a plate with flat stock aluminum/steel/wood/cereal boxes? I ordered an adapter plate from RHD, but shipping takes a while between Australia and Texas.
- Is my gauge cluster still going to work? I have no idea how the wiring for the instruments works. I know there's a trigger wheel in the diff for the speedometer, but does this sensor return to the ECU or to the cluster? Does the tach run off of the factory VR sensors in the bell housing? Can I fit a wheel speed sensor that returns to the MS3 box, and have a speedo on the Tunerstudio dash?
- Building a wiring harness for non-FI use: solder, crimp, or both? What crimp splices are good?
Besides all that, I've been reading about this stuff for weeks, and I feel like I'm ready to go through with it without blowing anything up. But still, do you guys have any advice? Traps to dodge, maybe something that nobody ever seems to think about?
Thanks in advance.
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