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Renewing Chrome Trim - DIY with Classictrimcoat

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    Renewing Chrome Trim - DIY with Classictrimcoat

    This is my first writeup, so any feedback is appreciated.

    First off - the trim on our cars is anodized aluminum - not chrome. The fading/discoloration of said trim is therefore oxidation, and the only true way to completely restore it is to sand/polish it, and then to have it re-anodized, or to just buy new trim.

    Here's what mine looks like prior to just plain cleaning. As you can see in the pictures, the trim is not shiny at all and looks a bit yellowed if anything.






    Prior to treatment, I washed and dried all of the trim using a pretty standard household cleaner/degreaser.




    That said, there are a variety of after-market products out there aimed at polishing/restoring aluminum trim pieces, so, at the recommendation of another forum member, I purchased the Oxidized Aluminum Kit from Classic Trim Coat. The kit comes with 'special' rolled paper towels, a roll of masking tape, an instructional DVD, and the aluminum deoxidizer itself. At first, I was put off by the fact that I paid $40 for such a tiny little bottle of the stuff, but I can say after following the instructions and even spilling a bit that it's definitely enough for one car, and probably for about 15 if you only make one pass per car.



    Following the instructions, first you mask any paint you may accidentally come into contact with. Then you dab enough deoxidizer to get the paper towel damp, and smoothly pass over the surface in a single motion. No scrubbing or back and forth. You should be able to actually see it work. For comparison, I did the bottom part of the door trim and left the top.




    The bumpers were harder because of the width, I wet the whole rolled paper towel and held it lengthwise, pressing down with the outside of my hand and went all the way across in one sweep. Then I came back and touched up the edges using the standard motion.



    It looks pretty good, but by the time I finished it was dark and I couldn't quite see how much of a difference it had made. I'm going to assume that repeated applications will also help, as I noticed in going back to where I started that some of the initial sheen had already died down. It still looked much better than when I started. I will post a follow-up tomorrow when I get the chance to see how it did overnight.
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    #2
    Any follow up to this?
    1988 BMW 325iS

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      #3
      As promised, follow up from this morning.

      I tried to take pictures from the same angles so that they can be compared, but to summarize, this is no magic cure. There are areas which were not so bad when I originally went over, they were definitely the most improved by the treatment and you can still see the difference where they cleaned up, versus the areas of heavy oxidation which are still relatively heavily oxidized.

      In another thread, the recommendation was to take the bumper off and polish it with increasing grit sandpaper and then going over it with the same product, that will be my next attempt. Here are the pictures;




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      4 doors.. so much room for activities!

      IG @bluebombr

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        #4
        Thanks for posting this, I was considering trying it but now I won't waste my time. Too bad.
        '89 lachssilber vert - Frau Blücher
        '84 alpine 2dr - gone to the great beyond...
        '00 titanium 4dr e46 - bricked

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          #5
          I've had pretty good success with coating all the metal trim with a very high grade wax such as VIP or La Cera and letting it sit for about 3-5 hours. After letting the wax sit, polish off the wax or even simply wipe away with a microfiber rag.. Works pretty well IMO.
          Last edited by cgk_iii; 05-21-2014, 01:51 AM.
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            #6
            I could be wrong, but the AL bumpers have a coating on them, that will prevent any polish from work directly on the metal - and the metal can be tarnished UNDER the coating - Don't quote me on that.

            Most of us, scuff them up and hit them with something like black SEM trim coat. (I think VHT or other vendors have their version of exterior black trim paint - I happen to like the texture SEM gives)

            Interested to see how it works.
            Last edited by george graves; 05-21-2014, 04:18 AM.
            Originally posted by Matt-B
            hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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              #7
              That may be true, but the website claimed that this would work by applying it as stated, so I wanted to attempt to use the product as recommended.

              Future attempts will probably include removing the bumper and sanding it down, then polishing and coating. I happen to like the chrome look, it's just a matter of cleaning up the oxidized areas.
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                #8
                The instructions in my kit indicated to lightly sand on the oxidized parts; the kit I purchased included the (fine grit) sandpaper to do that. To George's point, the purpose of sanding is to remove enough of the protective coating so that the solution can hit the layer that is actually damaged.
                Originally posted by kronus
                would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

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                  #9
                  A quick trick to get your trim and bumper looking better is to just use back to black. It just basically fills in the imperfections and makes your trim look a lot better. Very temporary though as it's just a silicone or similar film. Good for cleaning your car up for a meet or photoshoot imo.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by george graves View Post
                    I could be wrong, but the AL bumpers have a coating on them, that will prevent any polish from work directly on the metal - and the metal can be tarnished UNDER the coating - Don't quote me on that.
                    I believe you are correct about this. The rear bumper on my vert was all scratched up, so I used a polish wheel on a drill with mother's mag and aluminum polish. It worked great once I worked through the layer of gunk that covered the bumpers, but it took forever and was really frustrating.

                    In the future i may try aircraft stripper followed by fine sand paper and lots of buffing.
                    sigpic
                    1987 - 325i Convertible Delphin Auto [SOLD], 325i Convertible Delphin Manual [SOLD]
                    1989 - 325i Convertible Bronzit m30b35 swapped [SCRAPPED], 325i Sedan Alpine Auto[DD]
                    1991 - 325i Coupe Laguna Manual [Project], 535i Sedan Alpine [SCRAPPED]

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                      #11
                      I've always hated how much time it takes to do something perfectly, but that is a beautiful bumper!
                      sigpic
                      1987 - 325i Convertible Delphin Auto [SOLD], 325i Convertible Delphin Manual [SOLD]
                      1989 - 325i Convertible Bronzit m30b35 swapped [SCRAPPED], 325i Sedan Alpine Auto[DD]
                      1991 - 325i Coupe Laguna Manual [Project], 535i Sedan Alpine [SCRAPPED]

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                        #12
                        Shit that is amazing. I wonder if it wouldn't be easier to get a shop to chrome them?
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                          #13
                          As mentioned, aluminum polish doesn't work so well because of the clear anodize, I find clay bar and/or a buffer works the best to make it shine again.





                          Originally posted by 88BlackS-ETA
                          Polishing the bumpers is a pain in the butt. It took hours to do my front and I still need to get a good rear and do that one. Here is what I did.

                          We used a flat disc grinder with 80 grit to get the chrome off of the bumper, then stepped up to 120 then up to 160. We then switched to a DA sander and went all the way up to 1000 with that. Then we wet sanded it by hand up to 2000 switching directions from one grit to the other to make sure we went far enough down. Then we used a high speed buffer and some extra cut compound to get it close to the finish. Then finally put a latex glove on and hand polished it with Mothers Billet Metal Polish about 3 times over the whole thing and used a microfiber towel to take that off. Then covered it in tape before putting the bumper back onto the car.


                          And you can see how clear and good the reflection is here.

                          I have since redone it again and have put a sealant on it to protect it even more.

                          For mine, I used a 7" variable speed polisher/sander with a 220 grit sanding pad. Took about 20min per bumper to strip them of the anodizing. Then 320 in a DA and then just brought them to a polishing place to finish up.

                          Pain to keep clean, but occasional rub with Mother's aluminum polish and a good coat of wax made them stay decent.

                          My results...





                          john@m20guru.com
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                            #14
                            Did you grab your bumper surrounds off a vert or get yours painted?
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                            4 doors.. so much room for activities!

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                              #15
                              Mine? They were OE on that car, painted - they were black plastic when I originally bought the car. The whole car was painted 4 base 3 clear coats, color sanded and polished.
                              john@m20guru.com
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