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Old 07-13-2018, 01:45 PM   #496
cory58
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A couple question for those who have done the "full monty" conversion.

1. If I am replacing the expansion valve, how much extra work/hassle is it to replace the evaporator core "while I'm in there?"

2. Where is the evaporator temperature sensor located? What does it do? I don't see it mentioned in conversion threads.

Thanks, Cory
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Old 07-13-2018, 06:02 PM   #497
jeffnhiscars
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Originally Posted by cory58 View Post
A couple question for those who have done the "full monty" conversion.

1. If I am replacing the expansion valve, how much extra work/hassle is it to replace the evaporator core "while I'm in there?"

2. Where is the evaporator temperature sensor located? What does it do? I don't see it mentioned in conversion threads.

Thanks, Cory
1. Very little since you've already removed the glove box, disconnected the hoses etc. u less you think it leaks or is badly gunned up, you may want to just flush it.

2. Just above the gas pedal. It's there to deactivate the compressor if the evaporator temp drops below 38. If you replace the evaporator DO NOT use the sensor to pierce the new fins. It is too soft and can deflect which, in my case it did, and blocked the blend door.
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Old 07-16-2018, 07:11 AM   #498
cory58
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Originally Posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
2. Just above the gas pedal. It's there to deactivate the compressor if the evaporator temp drops below 38. If you replace the evaporator DO NOT use the sensor to pierce the new fins. It is too soft and can deflect which, in my case it did, and blocked the blend door.

Thank you Jeff! Sorry to be a newb, but what do you mean by "pierce the new fins" on a replacement evaporator?


Cory
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Old 07-17-2018, 04:49 AM   #499
jeffnhiscars
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Thank you Jeff! Sorry to be a newb, but what do you mean by "pierce the new fins" on a replacement evaporator?


Cory
The evaporator has soft aluminum fins and while there is a guide hole on the heavier steel end plate, the fins themselves do not have holes for the sensor. Its easy to drive something through the fins but the sensor itself is not rigid enough for this task and WILL deflect.

Hence, use a thin screw driver or awl (something with a semblance of a point) o create a straight bore for the sensor. It doesn't have to be a precise fit as the sensor is measuring air temp.
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Old 07-17-2018, 06:15 PM   #500
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It's hard to see but the compressor seems to have a wobble. Do I need to contact the seller?

Because it's a video it won't let me do anything but post the link. Sorry

https://www.flickr.com/photos/946846...posted-public/
Hi there. I was looking at your video and trying to figure out the parts needed to mount this on the M20 engine.

I believe the black brackets on the screenshot attached are needed and I can probably fabricate these myself. But I was wondering if this is mounted to the OEM bracket that attaches to the engine block listed here: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/64521717007/

Any chance you can confirm that is what you are using with the SD508 or post a picture of what you have? EDIT: Actually, this looks like the Sanden bracket on this post: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=358611 that is not easy to find.

Thanks.
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Last edited by bellerto; 07-18-2018 at 05:15 PM.
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Old Yesterday, 05:26 AM   #501
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Originally Posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
I bought a roll of 2" insulating foam tape from an AC supply house.
Does that help with moisture as well? I am getting water running down the pass side of my heater box with the AC on. I need to pull the glove box & find the source, but I suspect it is the expansion valve or lines.
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Old Today, 04:18 AM   #502
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Does that help with moisture as well? I am getting water running down the pass side of my heater box with the AC on. I need to pull the glove box & find the source, but I suspect it is the expansion valve or lines.
That could be a cause but don't rule out a clogged drain
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