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OBC LED upgrade

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    #16
    I did

    1987 BMW 325ic - Emma

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      #17
      Very cool.
      88 M3 Diamantschwarz
      89 M3 Zinnoberrot
      56 Isetta

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        #18
        Originally posted by camip View Post
        Well I couldn't get this to work and broke the soderring tab off the back any ideas on what to do
        Use a low temperature soldering iron with pencil tip. Make sure your pencil tip is in good condition and pre-tinned. You should only hold the tip onto the solder less than 10 seconds to get it to melt.
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          #19
          Just did this and was able to swap the light bar out with the OBC still in the dash.

          By cutting the bridge and laying the LEDs flat, I must say it looks very stock. I was expecting it to be more bright. I'm glad it is not. Same brightness as my original radio.

          Thank you.
          ACS S3 Build / Dinan 5 E34

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            #20
            Do you have to use yellow LEDs?

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              #21
              Originally posted by quaids View Post
              Do you have to use yellow LEDs?
              No, you can use clear LEDs as well.

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                #22
                Hi Guys.

                I have noticed my OBC's that use LEDS have a bright orange colour on the lettering on the display, while the ones that use Bulbs have a Red colour.

                Just wondering is there anyway to get a Red colour using LEDS, or do I have to use incandescent bulbs to get that original red appearance?

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                  #23
                  EuroCCA link is dead. I have completed two of these bars per the link below and neither works. Any help?

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                    #24
                    Figured it out: wiring in the RTS link above bridges the negative leads. I did not bridge, but instead soldered the cathode lead into the hole hidden under the resistor, so that the anode (+) and cathode (-) leads in the second pic are soldered as marked (without the bridge). Same result.
                    Attached Files

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by KingJaffeJoffer View Post
                      Figured it out: wiring in the RTS link above bridges the negative leads. I did not bridge, but instead soldered the cathode lead into the hole hidden under the resistor, so that the anode (+) and cathode (-) leads in the second pic are soldered as marked (without the bridge). Same result.
                      Agreed RTS is a horrible write up and did not cover the bridging of the negative side.

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