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    #16
    I did

    1987 BMW 325ic - Emma

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      #17
      Very cool.
      88 M3 Diamantschwarz
      89 M3 Zinnoberrot
      56 Isetta

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        #18
        Originally posted by camip View Post
        Well I couldn't get this to work and broke the soderring tab off the back any ideas on what to do
        Use a low temperature soldering iron with pencil tip. Make sure your pencil tip is in good condition and pre-tinned. You should only hold the tip onto the solder less than 10 seconds to get it to melt.
        Owner - Bavarian Restoration
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          #19
          Just did this and was able to swap the light bar out with the OBC still in the dash.

          By cutting the bridge and laying the LEDs flat, I must say it looks very stock. I was expecting it to be more bright. I'm glad it is not. Same brightness as my original radio.

          Thank you.
          ACS S3 Build / Dinan 5 E34

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            #20
            Do you have to use yellow LEDs?

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              #21
              Originally posted by quaids View Post
              Do you have to use yellow LEDs?
              No, you can use clear LEDs as well.

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                #22
                Hi Guys.

                I have noticed my OBC's that use LEDS have a bright orange colour on the lettering on the display, while the ones that use Bulbs have a Red colour.

                Just wondering is there anyway to get a Red colour using LEDS, or do I have to use incandescent bulbs to get that original red appearance?

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                  #23
                  EuroCCA link is dead. I have completed two of these bars per the link below and neither works. Any help?

                  The on board computer (OBC) in an E30 uses two regular light bulbs wired in series on a removable circuit board to light up the display on the OBC. Because they are wired in series, if one light-bulb goes out both go out. The bulbs are not supposed to be replaceable as they are soldered

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                    #24
                    Figured it out: wiring in the RTS link above bridges the negative leads. I did not bridge, but instead soldered the cathode lead into the hole hidden under the resistor, so that the anode (+) and cathode (-) leads in the second pic are soldered as marked (without the bridge). Same result.
                    Attached Files

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by KingJaffeJoffer View Post
                      Figured it out: wiring in the RTS link above bridges the negative leads. I did not bridge, but instead soldered the cathode lead into the hole hidden under the resistor, so that the anode (+) and cathode (-) leads in the second pic are soldered as marked (without the bridge). Same result.
                      Agreed RTS is a horrible write up and did not cover the bridging of the negative side.

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