e30 Subframe bushing puller tool

[nick.cbr]

with how large the top piece is, how are you doing that job in the car? seems like it would be quite difficult.

It wasn't intended to be used for an in-car subframe bushing replacement. That said, the top cup is actually two components that come apart: a washer and a tube. The reason we put a cup on the top [for bushing removal] was the bushing deflects a massive amount when you push on its insides only. You could probably do this in the car if you pulled the subframe down far enough from the stud and just used the top washer without the cup and really cranked on the tool - I think it really depends on how hard that bushing is in there. Mine was 32 years old and the amount of force to get it moving was significant. There just wasn't a ton of testing time put into it.

I would say bottom line: this tool was built for the sub-frame out but that doesn't mean that is the only way it can be used. Hopefully that helps!

[nick.cbr]

OEM M3 bushings

I did not know M3s had different subframe bushings than non-M3. Are they interchangeable?

I believe you're correct. 33311130537 seems to be the same for the entire lineup.

[nick.cbr]

It says so in the description.


But I don't understand why you really need to put the large tube above the subframe in the last step.
You can probably use a jack to push the bushing in.

You need the cup because the bushing goes past the top of the hole. In order to keep pressure on the bushing and drive it home, you need something up top to provide clamping force.

To be honest, I'm not sure the weight of the car would be enough to push this bushing home even with the correct installation lubricant (P-90).

[e30austin]

It wasn't intended to be used for an in-car subframe bushing replacement. That said, the top cup is actually two components that come apart: a washer and a tube. The reason we put a cup on the top [for bushing removal] was the bushing deflects a massive amount when you push on its insides only. You could probably do this in the car if you pulled the subframe down far enough from the stud and just used the top washer without the cup and really cranked on the tool - I think it really depends on how hard that bushing is in there. Mine was 32 years old and the amount of force to get it moving was significant. There just wasn't a ton of testing time put into it.

I would say bottom line: this tool was built for the sub-frame out but that doesn't mean that is the only way it can be used. Hopefully that helps!

well, with the factory BMW 3026 tool, you remove the pin and perform the repair in the car (dropping the subframe down a little bit on the side you are working on). unfortunately, even with the pin removed/subframe moved down, i don't think there's enough clearance to use your tool, in the car.

i would rather not pull the subframe to change the bushings, particularly if i'm not doing everything else that should be done while you're there (which isn't always an option). i would totally buy your tool, otherwise. GLWS

[Vincenze]

well, with the factory BMW 3026 tool, you remove the pin and perform the repair in the car (dropping the subframe down a little bit on the side you are working on). unfortunately, even with the pin removed/subframe moved down, i don't think there's enough clearance to use your tool, in the car.

The BMW 3026 tool uses an additional small tube at the top.

I think even a piece of hardwood (like maple) with a hole in it can be used with spacers as a cheap substitute.

[monty23psk]

OEM M3 bushings

I did not know M3s had different subframe bushings than non-M3. Are they interchangeable?

All e30s used the same rear subframe and sub frame bushings. PNs are the same in the ETK. The muffler mounting point is different on the m3 and the subframe has 2 slots for M3 and non-M3. I know this because I have m3 subframe installed on my car.

[nick.cbr]

well, with the factory BMW 3026 tool, you remove the pin and perform the repair in the car (dropping the subframe down a little bit on the side you are working on). unfortunately, even with the pin removed/subframe moved down, i don't think there's enough clearance to use your tool, in the car.

i would rather not pull the subframe to change the bushings, particularly if i'm not doing everything else that should be done while you're there (which isn't always an option). i would totally buy your tool, otherwise. GLWS

Yeah, if you remove the stud you obviously get far more to work with. I wasn't sure if people commonly remove that in order to complete this job. Before discounting the top cup though, I'd be curious if you compared the dimensions of it vs the factory tool by @Vincenze not sure there is much difference.

EDIT: Nevermind... I get what you're saying. Yes, the top cup is substantially taller and likely would not fit. Sorry for the confusion. Also wanted to add this this is at least an option for people now where before there was basically nothing nor you were waiting on people but I completely get it now!