Kopi Wheel (Alpina Replica) Group Buy

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  • jrobie79
    replied
    Originally posted by CB-M3
    Found out the noise was coming from underneath my e-brake not at the hubs like the cable was too loose. The right side was indeed really loose. Turned the adjusting nut few times and noise is gone.

    Here is the whip cleaned. I need to get coilovers ASAP. I put on 215/40/17 Kumho AST tires. It is actually flush with the fender.
    is that stock ride height? trying to gauge what mine will look like with H&R Races

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  • BMWE34M5
    replied
    15" and 17" ET 20 4 lug Kopi wheels in stock at Group Buy prices.
    Set (4 wheels) 17" x 7.5" $899
    Wheel 17" x 7.5" $225
    Set (4 wheels) 15" x 6.5" $849
    Wheel 15" x 6.5" $215

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  • jP4
    replied
    :up: Looking good man!

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  • CB-M3
    replied
    Found out the noise was coming from underneath my e-brake not at the hubs like the cable was too loose. The right side was indeed really loose. Turned the adjusting nut few times and noise is gone.

    Here is the whip cleaned. I need to get coilovers ASAP. I put on 215/40/17 Kumho AST tires. It is actually flush with the fender.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by CB-M3; 03-16-2013, 10:37 AM.

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  • CB-M3
    replied
    Originally posted by jP4
    You got it. There are r3v threads about it, but the basics are -- clean your threads well, locktite, torque to ~25ftlbs (I hand tightened mine), done. The studs will bottom out in the hub, you'll know (which is also why I don't think your current lug bolts are the problem...the hub won't allow them to go all the way through and interfere with the ebrake.) You'll need a 5.5mm allen key, which isn't the most common tool around. You can get a little install kit at Vorshlag here. I got my stud kit from Ryan @ Motorsport Hardware.

    When I read about adjusting the e-brake shoe pads it does say you can use one of the lug bolt holes to turn the clicker. So I would think maybe there is 1 bolt that is touching the e-brake mechanism. Thanks for the advice.

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  • jP4
    replied
    You got it. There are r3v threads about it, but the basics are -- clean your threads well, locktite, torque to ~25ftlbs (I hand tightened mine), done. The studs will bottom out in the hub, you'll know (which is also why I don't think your current lug bolts are the problem...the hub won't allow them to go all the way through and interfere with the ebrake.) You'll need a 5.5mm allen key, which isn't the most common tool around. You can get a little install kit at Vorshlag here. I got my stud kit from Ryan @ Motorsport Hardware.

    Leave a comment:


  • CB-M3
    replied
    Originally posted by jP4
    CB-M3 -- 57mm wheel studs is what I'd suggest. Makes things easier all the way around.
    And use lug nuts? Never installed wheel studs before. Is there a blank in the threads so it doesn't stop going into the hub?

    EDIT: NVM, they do have a blank. Comes with lug nuts too usually.Put some loctite on it and I should be good. Looks like I will go this route.
    Last edited by CB-M3; 03-15-2013, 07:14 AM.

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  • jP4
    replied
    CB-M3 -- 57mm wheel studs is what I'd suggest. Makes things easier all the way around.

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  • delatlanta1281
    replied
    Huh. Take out a bolt and measure it.

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  • CB-M3
    replied
    Originally posted by BMWE34M5
    You can use your existing lug bolts.
    I got the wheels mounted today. Some reason I got a weird rattle now from the E-brake. Driving wise no vibrations from the wheels/tires on the steering wheel. If I pull on the E-brake like 1 or 2 clicks the rattle disappears. What is going on? I had the E-brake fully pulled when I took stock wheels off and put new ones on. Did it stretch the cable somewhere? Something is hitting when the E-brake is in rested state and I drive. I'm reading if you change wheels the stock bolts may be too long and hit the e-brake mechanism. Wondering if the wheels are too thin where it mounts a the hub. Any suggestions let me know please.
    Last edited by CB-M3; 03-14-2013, 05:19 PM.

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  • BMWE34M5
    replied
    You can use your existing lug bolts.


    Originally posted by CB-M3
    do these wheels require the thin wall lug nuts?

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  • CB-M3
    replied
    do these wheels require the thin wall lug nuts?

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  • butters
    replied
    Anyone have pics of 205 vs. 215 on these wheels? I'm not sure if I should sacrifice 10mm for a possibly better Pirelli tire or go with the 215-width Kumho of the same category (max performance summer). The Kumho is also about $100 less after all said and done.

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  • BMWE34M5
    replied
    Both 20mm and 35mm offset in stock.
    Originally posted by steven g
    Mel
    What are the offsets of the remaining 17 x 7.5 wheels ?
    I am interested for either or both cars - I have an 89 iX and a 91 i/C.
    Thanks
    Last edited by BMWE34M5; 03-04-2013, 03:54 PM.

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  • steven g
    replied
    Mel
    What are the offsets of the remaining 17 x 7.5 wheels ?
    I am interested for either or both cars - I have an 89 iX and a 91 i/C.
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:

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