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German Engineering Coilovers
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Extremely pleased with this product. Very high quality at a great price. Spring rate is just what I was looking for. Installation was a breeze. Was worried they would be too stiff. Very streetable. Installed at full ride height, until springs settle. Only snag is my left gland nut is rubbing on spring, minor adjustment needed. Another satisfied customer.Comment
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No camber plates currently available.Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
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A lot of people have trouble getting off the strut mount nut so i decided to take a pic on the easiest way to do it with out air tools. What you'll need is a spark plug socket, 8mm 1/4" drive socket / or allen wrench and extensioin, and a large cresent wrench.

Also some of you guys would like to see exactly where to cut the perch for a cleaner install. For best results use a sawzall. You can usually find a harbor freight coupon for about $20 if you don't already have one. Cut just above the weld as shown. You do not have to cut all the way through. A good whack with a hammer will shear it at the line you made.

Took a few more installation pictures. The lighting is terrible but i can't wrench and use my DSLR.
Once you have the perch off and the tube painted slide on the sleeve and adjusters. If you place a piece of masking tape along the axis of the strut tube it will create a nice and snug fit. Often times the additional layer of paint will make them snug enough.


Then install the gland nut. Once you have installed the gland nut you can place on the spring and top hat.


Bolt up the strut to your factory mount or camber plate and your done.
Last edited by einstein57; 06-14-2013, 03:23 PM.Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
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I have to get in this time. Are you accepting PayPal this round?
Also, I have "thick stack" camber plates (made for use with OE springs, though I can remove the red adapter) and Koni yellows, but not the sortened ones.
Should I go with the 5" springs?

Thinking about it again, I guess it would be best to remove the red adapter (about 1" thick) and get the 6" springs. I'm looking for a reasonable height, never going "oil pan danger" low, track use is more important.Last edited by Fusion; 05-22-2013, 03:44 PM.Comment
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Kits are in stocks and ready to ship. Normal check out can be done directly from my website. Just click on the link in my sig. International orders should PM me so i can get international shipping cost. Its not too bad since i use medium flat rate boxes.
I would suggest the 5" spring unless you have plans to section the housing.Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
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I tried to e-mail you multiple times and just tried to call you,Kits are in stocks and ready to ship. Normal check out can be done directly from my website. Just click on the link in my sig. International orders should PM me so i can get international shipping cost. Its not too bad since i use medium flat rate boxes.
I would suggest the 5" spring unless you have plans to section the housing.
is this write up, 5" springs? or 6"?
what about the spring pads you recommended from IE for the rears, do you have a pic of them, availability/how much/ how to pay for them?
I thought i read someone also posted they installed with the adjuster upside down, is this incorrect?
also on the rear install, do you have to drill a hole through the trailing arm perch and install a long bolt + nut to hold down the adjuster?Last edited by e30experiment; 05-30-2013, 02:37 PM.Comment
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That was a prototype kit. Hes running 6" 550 springs. The parts have been refined as use tapered rear springs to utilize the factory spring pads. The rear adjusters inner diameter is also designed to be used with the factory lower spring pad.Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
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