N52 Swap Discussion

[hubcapboy]

Based on everything I’ve seen and read and some thinking, I think the best place for the pickup (and baffle tank) is centered in the full width of the pan, which puts it just before the break to where the bottom slopes. I figured the sloped wing would help a little bit to encourage circulation and reduce sludge where it doesn’t have oil constantly dumping down from above and mixing.

[hubcapboy]

This is rough... I was trying to stop my kids from fighting over the hose while I was fitting this together and actually ended up gluing it to the TOP side of the flange the first time, so my front corner bolt clearance chamfers are backwards. BUT. This turns out to have 3.5” from the bottom of the oil pan to the bottom of the oil pump, which is plenty of room for a pickup and baffle. I doubt I’ll have time to get this into the car today, so I thought I’d post the photos on the engine when I was checking for clearance on the windage tray and you can see the shape of the pan a little better. I did hold the rear section up against the block before it was glued to the flange and it looked like there was tons of room above the steering rack and subframe.

[nando]

I think one of the ideas of having 2 extra quarts is you don't really need an oil cooler.

[hoveringuy]

I don't know how important the actual capacity is. I was concerned about it when Tyler built my pan because he removed about 3" of it. I'm down to about 5 QTS to fill, but I add a 6th to over-fill by a quart.

I track my car pretty hard. I haven't had oil pressure issues except for hard braking on a on a steep downhill section followed by a sharp right where I'll get occasional flickering oil pressure in the turn. Makes sense, I have a rear sump and the oil is being pinned to the front.

I've been concerned enough that I run Blackstone oil reports at each change. My latest one just came back and after 6 track sessions where I flogged it hard, the report was the cleanest I've ever had- 8ppm Al, 11ppm iron and 1ppm lead.

The front sump solves the braking problem, the wider sump would be more susceptible to cornering. I like it!

[hubcapboy]

Seems like I should be able to insert an animated gif...



nope. that didn't work. what about this

Nope. that didn't work either.

hopeless. I guess external hosting?



yea well, who knows how long that image will last but everyone talk it up so people miss out in the future.

This was some late-night sketching after several hours of poorly mocked up plywood. The engine (all the bmw engines) are tilted back towards the rear of the car. having the steering rack and subframe in the way of sloping the pan down from the rear creates a challenge. I'm pretty sure this accomplishes it while still clearing everything, but I'll start cutting these pieces to check. Oil level is the red line, and capacity at that line is 7L. The depth of the wing is just about right to mount the e30 oil level switch from above, and the bottom of the sump should be just about flush with the bottom of the subframe (my skidplate dips down about 3/4" from there, so should clear this).

Adding capacity on the low side (starboard) isn't realistic because you still need entry and tool clearance for the pan bolts, so you're only left with a little 2" high wing... and the capacity is already fine.

significant slope towards the sump doesn't seem to be a priority on any of the factory m20 pans... it's a little alarming to see how little is needed, although there are some ridges to encourage the flow back to the center on the m20 pan:


This might just be to reduce sloshing as the oil runs along the pan? Super easy to add once I know my clearance from the n52 windage tray.