N52 Swap Discussion

[LukeJ]

Do you happen to have a picture of your set up? Thanks!

[projectJTv4]

I mounted my OBD under the steering wheel on the kick panel. In hindsight, it should be in or near the glove box so the cable doesn't have to reach across everything if you want to place the laptop on the passenger seat.

Do you happen to have a picture of your set up? Thanks!

[LukeJ]

Yes, it's important to do it right. If I lived in Cali, I would've had to learn what you are talking about. I would try to talk with a 'referee' ahead of time if possible.

[projectJTv4]

OBD port is easy, and it's almost an essential element of the swap. It lets you troubleshoot and test EVERYTHING!

That's good to know. I must have missed it somehow if it was mentioned here. I spent most of my morning reading through all 53 pages / 791 posts on this thread. I've tried numerous times before to read through all of it but never did until today. Now that I have an N52 sitting in my garage, I'm a bit more motivated to read thoroughly. There's a few posts specific to wiring, but it was mentioned it was trivial in comparison to mocking up the oil pan and arms.

My E30 originally had an O2 sensor, catalytic convertor, charcoal canister, and PCV. I think some had a smog pump? But my car didn't.

My swap retains all of those components. I didn't remove anything from the N52 except the rear O2 sensor pair. If it is an issue, you'll have to construct an exhaust that will fit a couple more O2 sensors after the cat(s).

I would think that if you do a good job and tidy everything up with the above mentioned stuff all plugged in and the motor is running good..... The tail pipe emissions should be no problem for a 30+ year old car and the standards they are held to.

I mounted my OBD under the steering wheel on the kick panel. In hindsight, it should be in or near the glove box so the cable doesn't have to reach across everything if you want to place the laptop on the passenger seat.

When I went to get the car tested.... I just presented it as a 1988 car. They hooked up the sniffer and ran it on a dyno, driving it though the gears. After that, they looked at everything under the hood and under the car. Didn't say anything about what obviously didn't belong. I passed because of the emissions and I had everything they were looking for on the checklist. Not sure if it would have turned out the same if I had pointed out the OBD port and suggested they hook it up. But 1988 cars don't have an OBD port..... ;-)

LOL that would be hilarious if that happened here. Typically for engine swaps in California they can either be dirty smogged or legitimately done through a BAR Referee. From what I read, they go through your swap with a fine tooth comb, looking for anything out of place, non-OEM, aftermarket, non CARB approved items. All emissions related equipment must be fully functional.

On top of the emissions portion, they require that the DME be verified by a BMW dealership to confirm nothing has been altered. I'm reading some will waive the EWS delete, as they understand it is not emissions related. This is copy from another thread on here: "I received your letter and forwarded it to BAR. They requested that the info be put on a dealer invoice. They want verification that the PCM is for a 1999 BMW M3 CA cert. The BAR would like the dealer to list the Calibration ID (CAL ID) and Calibration verification number (CVN) as well."

Full discussion of here on another thread. I posted the question a few months ago regarding getting a swapped N52/4/5 BAR'd, but no one responded. I'm assuming no one on here has done so yet?

I'm opting to do it correctly, as this would be my daily driver.

This is also my first engine swap, so I have plenty to learn here. I'm grateful for this platform and all that have contributed to the discussion, it's really given me a lot of confidence to try something new.

[LukeJ]

My E30 originally had an O2 sensor, catalytic convertor, charcoal canister, and PCV. I think some had a smog pump? But my car didn't.

My swap retains all of those components. I didn't remove anything from the N52 except the rear O2 sensor pair. If it is an issue, you'll have to construct an exhaust that will fit a couple more O2 sensors after the cat(s).

I would think that if you do a good job and tidy everything up with the above mentioned stuff all plugged in and the motor is running good..... The tail pipe emissions should be no problem for a 30+ year old car and the standards they are held to.

I mounted my OBD under the steering wheel on the kick panel. In hindsight, it should be in or near the glove box so the cable doesn't have to reach across everything if you want to place the laptop on the passenger seat.

When I went to get the car tested.... I just presented it as a 1988 car. They hooked up the sniffer and ran it on a dyno, driving it though the gears. After that, they looked at everything under the hood and under the car. Didn't say anything about what obviously didn't belong. I passed because of the emissions and I had everything they were looking for on the checklist. Not sure if it would have turned out the same if I had pointed out the OBD port and suggested they hook it up. But 1988 cars don't have an OBD port..... ;-)

[hoveringuy]

I think this may be uncharted territory, but has anyone retained all emissions related accessories and the OBD port functionality?

Being in California, this is important so that I can legalize the swap.


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OBD port is easy, and it's almost an essential element of the swap. It lets you troubleshoot and test EVERYTHING!

Not sure about emissions, although Luke is running catalytic converters, just not the ones original to the N52.

[projectJTv4]

I think this may be uncharted territory, but has anyone retained all emissions related accessories and the OBD port functionality?

Being in California, this is important so that I can legalize the swap.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DEV0 E30]

=== N52 Swap Skidplates ===

Once things are further along on my swap I'm going to be really looking at all options.

Some of these N52 swap oil pans are steel, some are aluminum.

Regardless --- with them being basically one offs, looking at ways to protect mine.

========================

@hoveringuy - Has tested the strength of his steel pan on track, and thankfully it's taken a beating and hasn't complained at all.

Since most of these pans are sitting higher or equal with the subframe, many will opt to not worry about this.

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It was only due to bad luck and my own doing that I've killed one e30 oil pan some 15ish years ago (E34 oil pan in E30M50).

After that and on other E30s I ran or acquired different skid plates, like the aluminum bent plates. Even had the OEM steel one special ordered, ended up selling that to a friend.

BUT - Since the roads are unpredictable, and since the pan that is going into this car will be custom, I'm thinking protection sooner rather than later is likely the route I'll go.

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Right now, leaning towards one of the more overbuilt that is on the market or having a copy/similar skidplate made.

If some locals express interest, a local fabricator may be approached to make a few copies of this with differing heights for different pans.

Another member here (@dylhaus) doing a 24v swap into his iX proposed this idea, so I told him to keep me posted on any of that.

If this doesn't pan out, I have no problem getting one from HIK directly.

========================

HIK Fabrication Skidplates

The current one I really like is the HIK Skidplate, that can be made for m20 or 24v cars already.

Now, some may not be jazzed about welding (required) on the bar to the front (directly to front frame rails, underneath behind core support) but I think it's a worthwhile thing to protect the underside of the front of the car. Maybe even strengthens this area.

Description:

The HIK Fabrication skid plate for E30 325e/325i (M20 engine) is the strongest and most rugged design we have seen. Numerous online testimonials back up the stout design for this piece and it was the only skid plate we wanted to offer for sale. It's also SpecE30 legal!

What makes this E30 skid plate so robust is the reinforcement bar that is welded to the frame rails. Other designs that are bolted to the subframe or core support and offer minimal protection. They are likely to flex and fold during a severe impact, cracking your oil pan. The HIK skid plate has much greater strength thanks to the reinforcing bar so that most* impacts will not ruin your race.

This kit requires welding brackets to your frame rails. The bar is then bolted to the brackets with supplied hardware. This allows the bar to be removed for normal service. Instructions are included.

* - nothing is indestructible. If you hit something that bends or breaks this steel tube you've already exceeded the protection any skid plate will provide.

M20 Version: https://www.bimmerworld.com/HIK-Fabr...-325i-M20.html

M/S5X Version: https://www.bimmerworld.com/HIK-Fabr...e-E30-M50.html

iX Version: https://hikfabrication.com/product/ix-skid-plate/

HIK Fabrication Website: https://hikfabrication.com/


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Pictures









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If there is any progress on having custom ones made --- I'll make a new thread, but this is just putting ideas to paper for now.

[Cdmef]

I’ve had my eye on the Russian drlavr supersprint replica headers, real ones are a hard sell on value for me. They look to at least be very close to equal length, has anyone run them or genuine supersprints? The 3rd bends out quite far which makes me a bit worried about tower clearance

*actually now I think about it that bend is probably not an issue

[hoveringuy]

It simulates the CAN signals which would be missing because of the swap. The emulator helps remove several unnecessary engine codes that would show up and put it in limp mode. It allows the engine to actually run normally.

yeah, I don't have one and I'm not in limp mode. My only codes are benign ones like EWS not present. I think I have 2 or 3 background error codes that are meaningless but don't effect anything.

[LukeJ]

It simulates the CAN signals which would be missing because of the swap. The emulator helps remove several unnecessary engine codes that would show up and put it in limp mode. It allows the engine to actually run normally.

Do you sell the emulator alone?

Would it help with the A/C issue, with regards to the DME not picking up the rpms at idle when the A/C compressor is activated?

I'm curious about what codes would be thrown that would put it in limp mode? The only time my engine 'went limp' was when my fuel pressure was not enough. I forget which code that was.

[MWC]

When compensating for the DCT the difference is more like 35-40 whp and there are a few other things I need to optimize like the fuel injector tuning and vanos tuning.

I picked up another N52 this past weekend that I'm going to build up out of the car and swap in before spring. On this one I'm going to definitely switch to S54 headers and try and get the merge correct as well.

LukeJ is right about the AA headers, they aren't even close to equal length and my current merge is a horrendous hackjob we threw together with the existing S52 exhaust to get the car working.

[digger]

i don't know the dynos in question but there probably isn't 50whp peak in an exhaust unless its plugged. Can be huge differences in low end and midrange but usually not top end. There is also the different dynos being like a different measuring stick

[sweet3]

I'm happy to see you offering this! What's the Can bus emulator?

It simulates the CAN signals which would be missing because of the swap. The emulator helps remove several unnecessary engine codes that would show up and put it in limp mode. It allows the engine to actually run normally.

[hoveringuy]

I have forwarded the PipeMax calcs that digger ran for me and I followed the primary/secondary diameters and lengths perfectly, plus a Burns merge and mandrel bent turns.
It seems to work, but I also think more dyno time to optimize valve timing, ignition timing and A/F would pick-up power for you
LukeJ and I have the same tunes