My 6 month old M42 radiator just took a dump and I'm sick of dealing with flimsy plastic endtanks. In the meantime I swapped in the radiator and reservoir from the super eta. Well, obviously now there's no bleeder screw. I've read the bleeding procedure to basically be opening the reservoir cap, starting the car and holding it at 2000rpm for 20-30 seconds. The coolant level in the radiator hasn't even gotten to the fan switch's level, so basically the fan doesn't work.
Anyway, I'm going to order an all-aluminum radiator, and I'm not sure whether to go with a Mishimoto E36 or an E30 OEM-style aluminum radiator. E36 radiators have a bleed screw, but I've heard it's rather useless.
What priceless firsthand advice and/or insight can r3v's DOHC swap section provide? Is a useless bleed screw better than no bleed screw?
Anyway, I'm going to order an all-aluminum radiator, and I'm not sure whether to go with a Mishimoto E36 or an E30 OEM-style aluminum radiator. E36 radiators have a bleed screw, but I've heard it's rather useless.
What priceless firsthand advice and/or insight can r3v's DOHC swap section provide? Is a useless bleed screw better than no bleed screw?
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