S50 Reassembled.

[hoveringuy]

I' ve always drilled two tiny holes in my thermostat, one on the top and one on the bottom. Not big enough to effect normal operation but it's made bleeding very easy.

[ck_taft325is]

I'll snap some pictures of the three sensor connections on the back side of the head (under the intake) and let you guys tell me if I have them connected right or not. According to the ETM I do, but, still no temp. gauge and I don't really want to bleed the cooling system without having some idea of where the temp is at while doing so.

[ck_taft325is]

Front is Brown/Yellow


Keep in mind, there's 3 plugs on the back of the head. I only have 2, 2 pin connectors. My temp gauge is not working. Stays in the blue.

[FredK]

Weird.

There's a blue temperature sensor for the DME. It's wires are BRN/RED BRN, and it should be the front most sensor. The one in the middle should be replaced with an E30 unit, and should only have one visible pin. This gets connected to the cluster 2-pin plug, which is BRN/YEL BRN/VIO.

[StereoInstaller1]

Weird.

There's a blue temperature sensor for the DME. It's wires are BRN/RED BRN, and it should be the front most sensor. The one in the middle should be replaced with an E30 unit, and should only have one visible pin. This gets connected to the cluster 2-pin plug, which is BRN/YEL BRN/VIO.

IIRC, the colors do not line up properly. I spent quite a while with the ETM for the '95 E36 S50, but this motor came from a '94 IIRC. Most connectors are correct, but not all.

If I cannot nail it with the ETM, I will do pin to pin at the DME and cluster, or at least C101.

I have to wire the check engine light properly too. Currently it is a light bulb shoved into the harness cover, there is no reason the stock light should not be wired in.

We may end up swapping to the longer harness, this one is really short for the DME. The wiring is not up to my standards, either, so after I do my swap Chris and I will rewire it anyway. I don't like to see the main harness ran through a rubber bellows that has been cut and wire tied.

Now I gotta get hold of Japandrew, get me some BMW tape!

[FredK]

Weird. In the absence of wiring colors, the blue taped connector goes to the blue DME sensor.

The other one goes to an E30 gauge sensor.

[StereoInstaller1]

Weird. In the absence of wiring colors, the blue taped connector goes to the blue DME sensor.

The other one goes to an E30 gauge sensor.

Tried it both ways, but yeah, blue sensor is DME from what I can tell. I left the wire with the blue tape on it to the DME sensor.

'tis weird, agreed. This car has always thrown codes, every since the swap. Something is wrong, and we lost the codes.

I am gonna look at a couple of other 24V cars harnesses, see if I can find a better match for colors.

[ck_taft325is]

Did some playing around one hour before I had to be at work including the 18 minute drive and managed to get the temp gauge working and the coolant system bled. Drove it around at operating temperature for 10 minutes and then hit the road for work. Performed flawlessly.

It's alive.

[Wh33lhop]

Good to hear man. It's finally fucking over.

[ck_taft325is]

Meh, around two weeks off the road isn't bad for rebuilding almost the entire head. First S50 I've worked on also. Luke was an indispensable help and it was a fun learning experience, despite the bullshit surrounding the whole engine.

Good stuff. Glad it's running. It smells like butthole. Still running a bit rich also but, still I can figure out over the next couple of weeks WHILE DRIVING IT.

[328ijunkie]

M42 radiators are harder to bleed than separate M20 overflow's. The M20 overflow on the fender is the highest point in the cooling system when used there.