Torque setting for the intake mani?

[MR 325]

I'm in disagreement that the only bolts worthy of an accurate torque setting are head/rod bolts. I torque everything related to the engine...especially anything that has a gasket surface or seal and prone to leaks over time. Flywheel bolts and lug nuts are always done...I've never had a warped rotor, even on my racecars.

Well, you need to understand that I very much so do know what I am doing.

I have NEVER torqued an intake or exhaust manifold, never a valve cover or an oil pan. No leaks so far. Just between my two current cars I've probably done 200 wheel changes. Not one time have I torqued the lug nuts/bolts nor have I EVER had a warped rotor on anything I have owned.

I do have real life experience working on BMW's and cars in general. Only 4 years at a shop but many more at home. On my S50 car every single bolt engine, transmission, and suspension related was put on by me. Hasn't wobbled apart yet.

[dsobering47]

As current BMW tech, I can't say I torque everything, but I do understand the need to do it. Just because something hasn't fallen apart or wobbled itself to pieces, doesn't mean its perfect. There IS such a thing as over-torquing.

How about this:
Did it ever hurt to torque something correctly? How much time do you really gain from not torquing it?

[MR 325]

As already stated, but I will say it AGAIN for you, if you know what you're doing you have a feel for how much to tighten something. I didn't need any fancy school or dealer job to teach me that. If this is something that you can't comprehend please keep living in your world and I will be here in mine getting shit done.

[accident]

As already stated, but I will say it AGAIN for you, if you know what you're doing you have a feel for how much to tighten something. I didn't need any fancy school or dealer job to teach me that. If this is something that you can't comprehend please keep living in your world and I will be here in mine getting shit done.

This.

[RobertK]

Us southern shadetree mechanics only have 4 measurements for torque. HT, PT, PDT, and VFT.

(Occasionally we will blow the dust off the ole torque wrench to install cylinder heads, flywheels, and such.) ;)

[dsobering47]

As already stated, but I will say it AGAIN for you, if you know what you're doing you have a feel for how much to tighten something. I didn't need any fancy school or dealer job to teach me that. If this is something that you can't comprehend please keep living in your world and I will be here in mine getting shit done.

I'll keep that in mind when you do a torque-to-yield aluminum bolt set. Yes, I understand the 'feel' of 20 nM or whatever....I'm simply stating (for someone looking into turning wrenches) that it DOES NOT HURT to torque it to the correct amount.

[10Toes]

I'll keep that in mind when you do a torque-to-yield aluminum bolt set. Yes, I understand the 'feel' of 20 nM or whatever....I'm simply stating (for someone looking into turning wrenches) that it DOES NOT HURT to torque it to the correct amount.

You guys fucking crack me up with your torque specs.

Let me tell you where torque specs are important... Head bolts, main bolts, rod bolts.

No, I'm not an ignorant redneck.

Because you probably don't have any extra time becuase you were busy torquing the battery hold down I will highlight this for you.

[dsobering47]

I am only laughing now because my point was misunderstood. Obviously I have no idea what I'm doing with a wrench because I shouldnt torque anything and I should just accept it as fact. Of course, this is coming from a guy who has done 100+ N52/N52k cylinder heads in the past year or so...the fastest time being 3.5 hours from start to finish.

I'll stick to knowing my shit is done right.

[rThor432]

Of course, this is coming from a guy who has done 100+ N52/N52k cylinder heads in the past year or so...the fastest time being 3.5 hours from start to finish.

I want to ask how you've managed to do a cylinder head a week, but the real question is what do you do with all of the brackets that bolt to the valve cover where the rear lower engine cover bolt goes? And you torque all of the N52 valve cover bolts to spec too? I'm not getting in your case, just asking seriously. Quick guys don't keep their 1/4" torque wrench in their back pocket..

The thing is, if you know the right way to do it, just get it done. This is a pretty worthless debate because one side isn't going to change the other side's opinion. I worked with Porsche motorsport cars for 8 months and torqued every fastener I touched in that period-- every one. Was my work then any different from my previous or current work? No.

[Blaine0002]

I am only laughing now because my point was misunderstood. Obviously I have no idea what I'm doing with a wrench because I shouldnt torque anything and I should just accept it as fact. Of course, this is coming from a guy who has done 100+ N52/N52k cylinder heads in the past year or so...the fastest time being 3.5 hours from start to finish.

I'll stick to knowing my shit is done right.

i get it. bickering over something silly.

[dsobering47]

I want to ask how you've managed to do a cylinder head a week, but the real question is what do you do with all of the brackets that bolt to the valve cover where the rear lower engine cover bolt goes? And you torque all of the N52 valve cover bolts to spec too? ...

I've done many cylinder heads in a week before. The bracket for the engine cover on N52k's or the rear wiring harness bracket for the N52's? The engine cover bracket comes off quick enough and the rear wiring harness bracket is removed with a shallow T30 with flex-head... Yes I torque the aluminum bolts on the N52 to spec. The steel bolts on the N52k are a different matter.

This wasnt meant to be an argument.:(

[MR 325]

I'll keep that in mind when you do a torque-to-yield aluminum bolt set. Yes, I understand the 'feel' of 20 nM or whatever....I'm simply stating (for someone looking into turning wrenches) that it DOES NOT HURT to torque it to the correct amount.

If you're taling head internals such as cam trays etc then yes a torque spec is also important there. No question.

[MR 325]

Also, why do so many N52 engines need cylinder heads? :D

[dsobering47]

Cam-trays, VANOS/camshaft bolts, any aluminum bolt...hell, the e90 has aluminum bolts that are TTY for the engine mount arms...wtf

N52/N52k's suffer from a 'ticking' from the lifters due to a check valve that wasn't pressed into the cylinder head. First repair would be to replace all 12 exhaust lifters/rock arms. Second repair (if the customer returns) would be a new cylinder head. Keep in mind the affected cars are made before 11/2008, so the newer vehicles already have the updated parts.

[rThor432]

^^It's great work. In the last 3 weeks I did 5 cylinder heads and 4 sets of lifters. We see a lot of issues with 'N' engine heads. I've done a lot of N62 heads as well, the valve stem seals are giving out as early as 50k.