Brake booster setup: why *wouldn't* you slot the firewall?

[Mr.SWISS]

So much fail in this thread.

[Boostesi]

its a fail idea. along with this whole swap, for the money m50 im starting to think isnt worth it. could do way cooler things with the money. like v8.

[hwy84]

Don't do it.

I did. My brakes drag something wicked, and I moved the booster exactly half an inch.

I have to rework the pedal assembly to re-align the clevis/booster, which is going to be at least as hard as just getting another booster would have been.

Mr Swiss is right (again). So much fail. Including me. :down:

[White325is]

Why would'nt you just drill a hole straight through and add a bolt?

This is why:

[trackjunkie21]

I did. My brakes drag something wicked, and I moved the booster exactly half an inch.

I have to rework the pedal assembly to re-align the clevis/booster, which is going to be at least as hard as just getting another booster would have been.

Mr Swiss is right (again). So much fail. Including me. :down:

When you say drag you mean they don't want to return correct? Mine did it at first then it got better now it's slowly coming back.

[dnick]

When you say drag you mean they don't want to return correct? Mine did it at first then it got better now it's slowly coming back.

yeah mine dont even drag one bit..

[e46s54dr]

Why would'nt you just drill a hole straight through and add a bolt?

Although that may solve the problem, drilling a hole thru the brake pedal is probably not a good idea. It would loose its structural strength and will eventually bend or break in extreme scenarios.

[hwy84]

When you say drag you mean they don't want to return correct? Mine did it at first then it got better now it's slowly coming back.

That's right - they don't want to return. Even after repeated bleeding. They return fairly quick with the car off (though still slowly), but with any vacuum in the booster at all, they won't return all the way without my bringing the pedal back manually.

Although that may solve the problem, drilling a hole thru the brake pedal is probably not a good idea. It would loose its structural strength and will eventually bend or break in extreme scenarios.

I agree - I don't want to drill a hole in the pedal without reinforcing it first. Not the end of the world, but either way requires removing the pedal, jigging it up, and drilling, or drilling and welding. This is a track car, and as such my brake use is typically judicious, measured and smooth, but I don't want ANYthing on my mind every time I press that pedal.

[Teaguer]

So much fail in this thread.

x1000. Noobs FTL!

[White325is]

Weird, I ran it like this on my car for two years. Ran it like this on my sepang coupe for 2.5 years. I have a swap car up in mass still running it 4 years later. A local kid I know who did a swap was on his for 1.5 years before selling it. Wonder why none of us had problems with using the stock booster. I've actually mounted the rod like posted above but put a bolt through the pedal with a lock nut. Maybe we all just got lucky.

[328ijunkie]

running it like i have it doesnt hurt the booster as i mentioned because the angle is correct. I just had to hack the shit out of the firewall and will never do that on a customer car. In addition to the fact i like the way oversize masters feel with stock E30 brakes.

[328ijunkie]

That's right - they don't want to return. Even after repeated bleeding. They return fairly quick with the car off (though still slowly), but with any vacuum in the booster at all, they won't return all the way without my bringing the pedal back manually.



I agree - I don't want to drill a hole in the pedal without reinforcing it first. Not the end of the world, but either way requires removing the pedal, jigging it up, and drilling, or drilling and welding. This is a track car, and as such my brake use is typically judicious, measured and smooth, but I don't want ANYthing on my mind every time I press that pedal.

So dont run the stock booster.

[sticksdaman]

Weird, I ran it like this on my car for two years. Ran it like this on my sepang coupe for 2.5 years. I have a swap car up in mass still running it 4 years later. A local kid I know who did a swap was on his for 1.5 years before selling it. Wonder why none of us had problems with using the stock booster. I've actually mounted the rod like posted above but put a bolt through the pedal with a lock nut. Maybe we all just got lucky.

This^

Nearly 12k on my swap so far (knock on wood)

[trackjunkie21]

Weird, I ran it like this on my car for two years. Ran it like this on my sepang coupe for 2.5 years. I have a swap car up in mass still running it 4 years later. A local kid I know who did a swap was on his for 1.5 years before selling it. Wonder why none of us had problems with using the stock booster. I've actually mounted the rod like posted above but put a bolt through the pedal with a lock nut. Maybe we all just got lucky.

I will be the first to say you did it the right way. The way i did it was probably half-assed and the reason why it drags, i ligned it up the way it came originally, basically the push rod is at an angle, i plan on doing exactly what you did.

[MaksV]

From personal experiance. It will bind. Your brakes will be fucked. Get the IX booster.

I tried to slot mine, its just not worth the effort when you can get an IX booster/MC for less than 100 bucks shipped.