Originally posted by InNeedOfBoost
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Spal electric fan?
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After running on the stock AC fan for 2 years, I finally ordered a SPAL fan to replace it. I'll add a very thin puller fan later on so I don't have to worry if any of the fans suddenly decides to die one day.90 E30 S50B30
http://www.fquick.com/roadhazard/
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I'm seriously considering swapping out my mechanical clutch fan for an electric on my stock m20b25. I'm not having cooling problems except it seems to take a bit long to warm up (thermostat not sticking, I checked). My main issue is that godawful noise at low rpm crawls, it's the loudest part of my car by far.
From what I see here most people are running either the stock aux fan on its own, a stock + an electric puller, or swapping the stock auxillary for a Spal and deleting the mechanical?
When doing any of these setups can it be wired in to be controlled by the stock circuit (at lower temps than the 99c preferably)1990 332i, 4 door
2008 KTM 990 Superduke
2018 Golf R, 6spd manual (Pending delivery)
2017 Mazda CX-5 GT
2007 Z4M Coupe - Sold to very nice people
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Yes, you replace the aux fan with the fan of your choice. If you want the fan to run 2 speeds you need to add a resistor similar to the one on the aux fan. Or if you don't want to mess with resistor wiring, you can just hook up to the fan switch that goes off at lower temp. In addition, you can also change the fan switch to a lower temps one (80/88 degrees.)90 E30 S50B30
http://www.fquick.com/roadhazard/
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Does this setup involve needing the A/C turned on like I've seen some people wire them up to do? I've never actually checked if the aux fan will start on its own without AC. What is the max amperage of the stock circuit and how many cfm are needed to solo cool the engine mid summer (about 35c maximum ambient) with A/C on?1990 332i, 4 door
2008 KTM 990 Superduke
2018 Golf R, 6spd manual (Pending delivery)
2017 Mazda CX-5 GT
2007 Z4M Coupe - Sold to very nice people
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By reusing stock wiring, the fan should turn on automatically when water temp reaches the value on the radiator temp switch.
SPAL high performance fans should blow better cfm and draw less current than the stock fan. Not sure about the actual figures though. I've run the aux fan solo in my car for a couple years now. No problem so far as long as the fan is functional. And I'm talking about Bangkok hot climate and bad traffics. A SPAL fan should improve this. However, I also have a large euro M3 radiator with an oil cooler. Not sure if that makes any difference.90 E30 S50B30
http://www.fquick.com/roadhazard/
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Anyone? Just need to know if the power is sufficient or atleast better than the e34 pusher that's about to die.
If my calc. are correct, 1760cbm/h = 1035cfm
That seems a bit weak, since everyone here has fans around 2000cfm, provided they are really in cfm, not cbm/h.Last edited by Fusion; 05-06-2013, 04:03 AM.
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Do you also have the clutch fan? If not, it depends on your ambient temps but if you are at 30C+ sitting in traffic, I would think you'll be regretting that weak of a fan. If that fan claims peak CFM is 1035, that means it is probably usually running closer to 8-900 on average, which is not going to help much without the aid of a mechanical fan.
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Spal electric fan?
Need some thoughts:
Possible to remove the mech fan and just install one pusher like one of these?
Summit/Spal
I have a 1987 E30 s325is with S50 Swap
Motor to Radiator is tight.
Bought Mishimoto bracket with fan and will not fit.
Don't really like the zip tie units.
I am ok with adding 2 one for aux/ac.. I have working AC now.
Want to keep the AC.
Just what to buy for main electrical fan?
1987 BMW 325is,(M3 S50 Swapped)-Current
2010 FJ Cruiser, aka E30 Support Vehicle-(Daily)
2008 Scion xB Lowered
2001 BMW 325i
1995 BMW 318ti
1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
1965 Ford Mustang Coupe
My Thread
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