My wiring thread- No fuel, no spark, here are my ideas

[GunMetalGrey]

also feel free to post up pictures of your wiring on the firewall.

[singh336]

post up pictures for sure, i'de like to see what everyone's wiring looks like , grounds etc

i've got a no start but its not a big issue yet, literally just got everything together tonioght and didn't expect it to start anyways.

[e30shmobberr]

post up pictures for sure, i'de like to see what everyone's wiring looks like , grounds etc

i've got a no start but its not a big issue yet, literally just got everything together tonioght and didn't expect it to start anyways.

when it comes to this issue, the more info posted about your swap, the better

[singh336]

if I wind up having to make a thread about my problem of no start I'll definitely give all the info about what I'm using, but I'm going to try to handle it myself first as I haven't looked into it yet . im just happy it cranks

[e30shmobberr]

if I wind up having to make a thread about my problem of no start I'll definitely give all the info about what I'm using, but I'm going to try to handle it myself first as I haven't looked into it yet . im just happy it cranks

i know the same feeling ha

[singh336]

do you NEED the afm to start the car ? I know on m20 it can be disconnected and still run

[singh336]

okay my problem is no fuel, gonna start a thread now :D after some searching tho

[singh336]

i had the same symptoms and this is how i fixed mine (just something to look for). When I cut my x20 off of the harness to splice the harness to the c101, it turns out i cut the connector off right before 2 ign green wires lead up to 1 then to the x20. so when i connected the one big green wire for the ign, it really need the small green wire too for the car to start.

[ATTACH]56071[/ATTACH]

check to see if you had done the same thing or not. maybe it'll be it

did you check for this yet? I'm thinking that might be my issue however I do NOT see any small green wire branched out from the bigger one, just a small green wire that was branched out in the plastic box cover thing which went to the auto tranny ecu ... which is not used.

so i dont rob this thread, i started my own http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=250182

[Roysneon]

Here is my wiring job. I think this is all the important stuff.


^ignition wire, does not branch off or split. I pulled the loom wrap back and checked it.


relay/ignition wires?


Diagnostic port wires, i traced them and they all seem to be connected to something.


Relay ground wires grounded on the shock tower.


All the power wires coming from the batt.
Big one is the main power for the M50 harness,
the two little black ones are for the fuse box and another one that goes into the firewall, I'm guessing to supply power to the body electrical somewhere.
The other red one is the Jump Start terminal one that was on the M50, I just threw it on there to keep it from touching anything it shouldn't.

[singh336]

thanks for the pics

[Roysneon]

Just talked to Dave at Markert Motorworks for a good hour or so troubleshooting the wiring. Pretty much narrowed it down to a bad DME or crank sensor.

BIG props to Dave for calling me international and walking me through what to test. Feel a lot more at ease now knowing what it's not.

[Northern]

if the 1995 E34 m50 sensor is the same, there's one up on kijiji. Same guy I wanted the oil pan/intake from.

[singh336]

u should take a multi meter and test the crank sensor to see whats up or swap it if you have one

[Northern]

I suppose the crank sensor is easier to test than swap out, resistance should be 540+-40 I believe

[328ijunkie]

Tested fine but that doesnt mean its good. Only true way to test is with a scope...