Use the Stock Booster - Modify the Clevis
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Ok well your original comment made it sound like you were saying any E30 with higher HP should have an upgraded booster, hence my comparison to modded m20s.
I dunno man... I dont see any issue with everything being relocated. Nobody flames on the v8 swap guys when they install their boosters in front of the wheel well actuated by bellcranks and such.. I know its a BMW design, but if you say my brakes will fail then whos saying someone who welds an e34 booster linkage into their e30 wont have a failure -
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Or you could just relocate your stock one?Well of course, because their intakes still clear.
You didn;t forget why you were re LOCATING you booster did you? You're totally right it needs no upgrade
The E32 booster ( same as ix) combo has the larger MC, and it helps pedal effort stay normal. all needed is an e30 ix clevis that's <$10 and a 2002tii remote res.
The stock booster and ix/e32 booster perform the same, with differing dimensions. Hence the reason most opt to go this route. Some go with the e21 thinking it will be the same only to be let down.

haha
I shouldn't defend it, I'm having stupid lockup issues and only God knows why they are happeningLeave a comment:
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Well of course, because their intakes still clear.
You didn;t forget why you were re LOCATING you booster did you? You're totally right it needs no upgrade
The E32 booster ( same as ix) combo has the larger MC, and it helps pedal effort stay normal. all needed is an e30 ix clevis that's <$10 and a 2002tii remote res.
The stock booster and ix/e32 booster perform the same, with differing dimensions. Hence the reason most opt to go this route. Some go with the e21 thinking it will be the same only to be let down.
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I moved my whole pedal box over with the booster. But, I needed my brake pedal a little further away from gas pedal.Leave a comment:
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I just cut half of the clevis off and attached the other half to the left side of the pedal using washers to make up for the difference on the pin. This makes it perfectly straight as if the booster was never moved. I'll get a photo so you can see what I'm talking about...Leave a comment:
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OP, first off, thanks for the Clevis idea. I used it, and I think its a better option than downgrading to a smaller booster.
I had saved an extra booster to get a clevis and cut in half, Just like your setup.. but somebody chucked it and I already had my stuff all apart so I decided to just make the third clevis leg out of scrap steel. works the same..
And I modified the pedal gear bracket to accept the 4th booster nut.
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Picked up two spare clevis' today from pick n pull. gonna give this a shotLeave a comment:
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Wanna make me one :)Because it wasn't true for me - and many others.
Moving the booster is easy. Affixing the clevis onto the pedal linkage without removing the pedal, or using only half of the clevis, or putting an angle into the booster rod that wasn't designed to be there and often causes brakes that drag and won't return, isn't so easy.
This "double clevis" approach solves the alignment issue, and allows use of the stock on and bracket, maintaining the function of the stock system.
And it's cheap and simple.
Im in the bay areaLeave a comment:
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Because it wasn't true for me - and many others.
Moving the booster is easy. Affixing the clevis onto the pedal linkage without removing the pedal, or using only half of the clevis, or putting an angle into the booster rod that wasn't designed to be there and often causes brakes that drag and won't return, isn't so easy.
This "double clevis" approach solves the alignment issue, and allows use of the stock on and bracket, maintaining the function of the stock system.
And it's cheap and simple.Leave a comment:




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