Use the Stock Booster - Modify the Clevis

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  • bimmer630
    replied
    Originally posted by Mr.SWISS
    Well of course, because their intakes still clear.

    You didn;t forget why you were re LOCATING you booster did you? You're totally right it needs no upgrade

    The E32 booster ( same as ix) combo has the larger MC, and it helps pedal effort stay normal. all needed is an e30 ix clevis that's <$10 and a 2002tii remote res.

    The stock booster and ix/e32 booster perform the same, with differing dimensions. Hence the reason most opt to go this route. Some go with the e21 thinking it will be the same only to be let down.


    Ok well your original comment made it sound like you were saying any E30 with higher HP should have an upgraded booster, hence my comparison to modded m20s.


    I dunno man... I dont see any issue with everything being relocated. Nobody flames on the v8 swap guys when they install their boosters in front of the wheel well actuated by bellcranks and such.. I know its a BMW design, but if you say my brakes will fail then whos saying someone who welds an e34 booster linkage into their e30 wont have a failure

    Leave a comment:


  • bimmer630
    replied
    Originally posted by rightcoastbias
    Slotted 1/2" and did this.



    theres a return spring that mounts off the end of the clevis pin. what'd ya do with that?

    Leave a comment:


  • craiggroves91
    replied
    Originally posted by Mr.SWISS
    Defend away, you are making us backwoods hillbilles look like German engineers Cali boi. :-P
    Actually my only issue is a bad booster.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr.SWISS
    replied
    Originally posted by cjdontthink
    Or you could just relocate your stock one?
    haha

    I shouldn't defend it, I'm having stupid lockup issues and only God knows why they are happening
    Defend away, you are making us backwoods hillbilles look like German engineers Cali boi. :-P

    Leave a comment:


  • craiggroves91
    replied
    Originally posted by Mr.SWISS
    Well of course, because their intakes still clear.

    You didn;t forget why you were re LOCATING you booster did you? You're totally right it needs no upgrade

    The E32 booster ( same as ix) combo has the larger MC, and it helps pedal effort stay normal. all needed is an e30 ix clevis that's <$10 and a 2002tii remote res.

    The stock booster and ix/e32 booster perform the same, with differing dimensions. Hence the reason most opt to go this route. Some go with the e21 thinking it will be the same only to be let down.

    Or you could just relocate your stock one?
    haha

    I shouldn't defend it, I'm having stupid lockup issues and only God knows why they are happening

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr.SWISS
    replied
    Originally posted by bimmer630
    Why hate the stock booster? plenty of people are running turbos or other mods on their m20s that make more power than a 24v and most of them have stock boosters, no?
    Well of course, because their intakes still clear.

    You didn;t forget why you were re LOCATING you booster did you? You're totally right it needs no upgrade

    The E32 booster ( same as ix) combo has the larger MC, and it helps pedal effort stay normal. all needed is an e30 ix clevis that's <$10 and a 2002tii remote res.

    The stock booster and ix/e32 booster perform the same, with differing dimensions. Hence the reason most opt to go this route. Some go with the e21 thinking it will be the same only to be let down.

    Leave a comment:


  • bimmer630
    replied
    Originally posted by Mr.SWISS
    24V+ stock /e21 boosters, that's that shit I DON'T LIKE.

    Why hate the stock booster? plenty of people are running turbos or other mods on their m20s that make more power than a 24v and most of them have stock boosters, no?

    Leave a comment:


  • bimmer630
    replied
    Originally posted by BBDirtbiking
    Just did this, and damn is it a pain in the neck to bolt it back on after moving it half an inch. My arm is all cut up from the brake pedal, haha.
    long extensions and swivel sockets are your friend

    Leave a comment:


  • dashboardmonkey
    replied
    I moved my whole pedal box over with the booster. But, I needed my brake pedal a little further away from gas pedal.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr.SWISS
    replied
    24V+ stock /e21 boosters, that's that shit I DON'T LIKE.

    Leave a comment:


  • thisizaremix
    replied
    I just cut half of the clevis off and attached the other half to the left side of the pedal using washers to make up for the difference on the pin. This makes it perfectly straight as if the booster was never moved. I'll get a photo so you can see what I'm talking about...

    Leave a comment:


  • bimmer630
    replied
    OP, first off, thanks for the Clevis idea. I used it, and I think its a better option than downgrading to a smaller booster.

    I had saved an extra booster to get a clevis and cut in half, Just like your setup.. but somebody chucked it and I already had my stuff all apart so I decided to just make the third clevis leg out of scrap steel. works the same..


    And I modified the pedal gear bracket to accept the 4th booster nut.

    Leave a comment:


  • craiggroves91
    replied
    Picked up two spare clevis' today from pick n pull. gonna give this a shot

    Leave a comment:


  • craiggroves91
    replied
    Originally posted by hwy84
    Because it wasn't true for me - and many others.

    Moving the booster is easy. Affixing the clevis onto the pedal linkage without removing the pedal, or using only half of the clevis, or putting an angle into the booster rod that wasn't designed to be there and often causes brakes that drag and won't return, isn't so easy.

    This "double clevis" approach solves the alignment issue, and allows use of the stock on and bracket, maintaining the function of the stock system.

    And it's cheap and simple.
    Wanna make me one :)

    Im in the bay area

    Leave a comment:


  • hwy84
    replied
    Originally posted by NbAmTwE
    Yeah I'm curious as to why we are looking for these options if the above is true.
    Because it wasn't true for me - and many others.

    Moving the booster is easy. Affixing the clevis onto the pedal linkage without removing the pedal, or using only half of the clevis, or putting an angle into the booster rod that wasn't designed to be there and often causes brakes that drag and won't return, isn't so easy.

    This "double clevis" approach solves the alignment issue, and allows use of the stock on and bracket, maintaining the function of the stock system.

    And it's cheap and simple.

    Leave a comment:

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