Just did this, and damn is it a pain in the neck to bolt it back on after moving it half an inch. My arm is all cut up from the brake pedal, haha.
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Use the Stock Booster - Modify the Clevis
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Slotted 1/2" and did this.
Last edited by rightcoastbias; 07-05-2012, 06:41 AM.
M52B28 OBD1 - G240 - S4.10
Stuff for Sale: 24v swap parts
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Originally posted by rightcoastbias View PostSlotted 1/2" and did this.
Looks like the easiest wayYour signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
1989 BMW 325i SOLD
1998 BMW Estoril Blue e36 M3/4/5 SOLD
1987 BMW 325 (The Piece) SOLD
1991 BMW 318is S52 swap (The Beast) Now Driving Project Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=234207
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Originally posted by blackhawkimpact View PostI'm using the stock booster. I just re-drilled the holes 1/2 to the right. Works like a charm.UNDER CONSTRUCTION - 24v 325e (future DD), DD 525i
stripped out e30 rally project - in progress
M50NV -> M50TU E34 swap underway
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Originally posted by NbAmTwE View PostYeah I'm curious as to why we are looking for these options if the above is true.
Moving the booster is easy. Affixing the clevis onto the pedal linkage without removing the pedal, or using only half of the clevis, or putting an angle into the booster rod that wasn't designed to be there and often causes brakes that drag and won't return, isn't so easy.
This "double clevis" approach solves the alignment issue, and allows use of the stock on and bracket, maintaining the function of the stock system.
And it's cheap and simple.Current:
1991 325i Sedan - S50 Swap
1988 325i Cabrio
Past:
1991 M3
1991 318is
1985 325e
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Originally posted by hwy84 View PostBecause it wasn't true for me - and many others.
Moving the booster is easy. Affixing the clevis onto the pedal linkage without removing the pedal, or using only half of the clevis, or putting an angle into the booster rod that wasn't designed to be there and often causes brakes that drag and won't return, isn't so easy.
This "double clevis" approach solves the alignment issue, and allows use of the stock on and bracket, maintaining the function of the stock system.
And it's cheap and simple.
Im in the bay areaYour signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
1989 BMW 325i SOLD
1998 BMW Estoril Blue e36 M3/4/5 SOLD
1987 BMW 325 (The Piece) SOLD
1991 BMW 318is S52 swap (The Beast) Now Driving Project Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=234207
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Picked up two spare clevis' today from pick n pull. gonna give this a shotYour signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
1989 BMW 325i SOLD
1998 BMW Estoril Blue e36 M3/4/5 SOLD
1987 BMW 325 (The Piece) SOLD
1991 BMW 318is S52 swap (The Beast) Now Driving Project Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=234207
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OP, first off, thanks for the Clevis idea. I used it, and I think its a better option than downgrading to a smaller booster.
I had saved an extra booster to get a clevis and cut in half, Just like your setup.. but somebody chucked it and I already had my stuff all apart so I decided to just make the third clevis leg out of scrap steel. works the same..
And I modified the pedal gear bracket to accept the 4th booster nut.
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