Use the Stock Booster - Modify the Clevis

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  • bimmer630
    replied
    I may have posted these before on another thread, but its slow at work and I'm bored. This thread seems to have been revived so I figured I'd share pics of how I did mine. Ive been driving it for 3 (?) years now with no issues. AKG swap engine mounts
    Attached Files

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  • E30335i
    replied
    You guys need to double check your measurements. My booster was leaking internally and now it's good. It's an inconvenience to change as the intake manifold has to be removed but I feel it has it perks.


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  • E30335i
    replied
    My booster was leaking! Changed and issue is fixed


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  • Mpowered
    replied
    Originally posted by E30335i
    Anyone have issues with the linkage binding? I'm having that issue atm


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    I found the same...still haven't fixed it and resorted to just using an e21 booster as my intake manifold still wouldn't clear (using e28 535i mounts)

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  • E30335i
    replied
    I did 1/2 inch center to center. Maybe I need an adjustment for the linkage. I have the clevis made from 328isjunkie


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  • sweet3
    replied
    Did you shift the booster over enough/too much? The booster shaft needs to be as straight as possible

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  • E30335i
    replied
    Anyone have issues with the linkage binding? I'm having that issue atm


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  • SirMaxximus
    replied
    clevis mod worked like a charm..... learn from me and make sure of a few things

    1. make sure your running the correct e28 green motor mounts.. or you still won't clear
    2. shave the fins on your manifold after test fitting to make it look nicer.. I shaved mine at work and shaved way higher than I needed to... it won't cause any function problems, but woulda looked nicer!

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  • E30335i
    replied
    I want to add with my experience with using the stock Booster.
    If you have proper tools your job will be more exact and clean and faster.
    I purchased 328ijunkie's modified clevis. Very nice.

    I made a template with thin sheet of metal using pedal box where it mounts to the firewall/booster.
    I measured corner to corner. not center to center. From side of hole to side of hole. not center of hole to center.
    Made holes for the template and put it on firewall to verify. Made the holes and had to make the center hole bigger due to moved booster. Brakelines have to move moved/bent just a minimal amount just to have clearance for everything.
    I then had to do the same to the pedal box assembly. Please note after reading you cannot add nuts to the top but i wanted to because the firewall is so thin and you can see it flex when pressing the brake pedal down. So i then had to cut piece of the bracket off on top and doing this does not change the integrity of the pedal assembly.

    After test fit with the m50 manifold, i only had to shave off the 2-3 fins and made it appear oem. Doing this the first time was a struggle but if i had to do it again i would def do it the half amount of time. Longest part was cutting. Making the template is very important as it makes everything more exact. I made my own gasket for the booster to firewall that you can get from vatozone by the foot for extremely cheap.

    Compared to spending more for a different booster i believe its worth it and i do believe i would do this again or opt for booster delete in the future.

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  • 328ijunkie
    replied
    We can make modded clevises again.

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  • DeM3n
    replied
    Perfecto!

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  • Varinn
    replied
    RealOEM has the answer

    ATE: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=34331157416
    Girling: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=34331157908

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  • DeM3n
    replied
    Thinking about doing this myself as well.... except I have a 318i and I gotta find out if the 325i boosters is the same. I did a quick check online and it looks like most of the e30 boosters are the same.

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  • E30335i
    replied
    Bump from dead. Anyone here done this already willing to make one?

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  • /\/\ III
    replied
    thanks for the info.

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