24v Swap Nugget Thread - Drop yours here!

[ForcedFirebird]

The g240 uses the same pilot bearing as a ZF...

[shiboujin]

My B sir. I know nothing of GR240s/250s lol.

[ForcedFirebird]

My B sir. I know nothing of GR240s/250s lol.

Nah, it was from a previous post, not meant at anyone specifically. Said "ZF and "Getrag pilot bearings. The late m42 cars had the 15mm pilot.

[ScHpAnKy]

Most aren't wrong, just overly vague and sometimes overly specific.

hopefully that's a pretty decent contribution and help to some of you, I went with a M50NV / Getrag 240 / M20 single mass flywheel and e36 325is driveshaft into an 88 325is for my particular combination so a lot of that information is specific to my build.

C104s are mainly in early models. Late model tachometers will work with just the c101 wired

Everybody knows this, at the time of writing I had a '86 325

You don't need the spacers but they help. You can cut down the top threads down otherwise. Spacers ARE recommended though. E28 M5 mounts also work. AKG makes a pre offset bushing set though. All non AKG motor mount options don't incorporate the different tilt of the E36 arms with the tilt of the subframe.

Help? I like having my oil pan off the ground as much as possible, my intake manifold clearing my brake booster and my driveshaft aligned with the pilot bearing, good call on the AKG stuff.


...or M42 one or M20 late model one or make your own...
I use the M42 one, but M20 late model = 89+... like my post said.


If you want to stay with a clutch fan you have to use the e30 one, it goes right where the e36 one comes off.

I've read this but never seen it in person. Every 24v swap I've done (5 or 6) has never been able to clear the fan without 2mm of gap. Not enough in my book. Supposedly a 524 diesel fan works but I've no evidence other than seeing it on a post somewhere.

Yeah, 5 or 6 is a good start... try doubling that and you see a few. A good friend has a S52 with no deletes like my car, with a m42 radiator and clutch fan. I can grab pics next time I see him, but it's not going to be for a few weeks with my work schedule.

M20 stock flywheels require shaving 1/8" on the back side to avoid hitting the oil pan.

OR shave the oil pan. Some places will not shave the back of a flywheel.


shave the oil pan? Sounds fun. Some places don't shave the back of the flywheel? Get a lightweight one or get a different machinist. This isn't rocket science.


Use the pilot bearing that was meant for your motor.

Pilot bearings come in 2 flavors, ZF and non ZF. ZF uses a bigger inner diameter for the pilot bearing. Use the pilot bearing for the TRANS not the MOTOR.

Worked for me, and as mentioned above...


-People have used the m20 325i shift linkage along with it, it didn’t work for me so I shortened the 318 carrier and selector rod to work.

With a ZF, stock linkages will work but you'll need a short shifter otherwise your shifter hits the center console. With a GR260, the carrier is fine but the linkage needs to be bent or else the shifter will be cocked off. I know nothing of the GR240 or GR250


It's a shame because the Getrag 240 I have didn't required any special brackets, carriers, etc - granted I've got the UUC SSK and DSSR, but it's stock Getrag 260 fitment/carrier/etc


-Use the E36 325i 5spd driveshaft with a e30 center bearing for best fitment. The E30 325i 5spd driveshaft can be used too.

E30 and E36 drive shafts are the same length but use different CSBs. For the ZF, an eta/E30 M3/4 bolt rear E36 328/M3 DS should be used. For the GR260, use a stock manual non eta M20 drive shaft. M42 ones are far too long.


Everybody knows the M42 ones are too long, and the automatic E36 ones are too short. ZF-specific ones are the 328/M3 shafts as mentioned.


In summation, no wrong information... just splitting hairs. Quit bickering for the sake of hailing yourself as an e-champion and provide useful information as you did in some of those cases. :p

[shiboujin]

you could have killed someone man!

[328ijunkie]

NEVER weld the oil pump nut.
Safety wire/loctite/punched threads.

Biggest bit of misinfo thrown around. Others:

Pilot bearings: All G240s(not confirmed by me)/G250s/ZF310/ZF320 use the same pilot bearing
G260s use a small ID one.
Driveshafts: Match the driveshaft to the trans. 240 to 240, E36 G250 to E36 G250, 260 to 260, ZF to ZF (or big flange 260)
CSB: Needs to match your chassis and bolt into the car exactly as it did with the original engine. This may require it to be mounted on whatever driveshaft backwards.
Shifter Linkages: Same as Driveshafts, (cant confirm with G240, never used one)
Motor Mounts: Greens are not necessary, blacks work the same. And i never shim motors.

To the posters please fix your posts to stop this misinfo from flying around more.

[shiboujin]

IMO If you're stupid enough to read one thread and take it as gospel, you deserve it.

[ForcedFirebird]

NEVER weld the oil pump nut.

Why not? I put a tiny TIG tack on them, never had a problem.

However, I have seen where someone MIG welded one on when we pulled the motor/pan out of an e36M3 and there was slag in the bottom of the pan. That's scary.

If it's a tiny TIG tack, it's easily ground off if the pump ever needs to be removed for whatever reason.

Also, I have pulled them apart after the PO put Loc-Tite on them and they came right off with little effort. Had an s50 that the pump nut just spun, but wouldn't come off as the PO must have over tightened the nut and stripped the few threads that the very thin nut caught. Had to pull the whole pump off and replace it FTL.

[328ijunkie]

Hardened steel pump shaft doesnt like welding heat. Most of the ones you hear about sheering were welded....

[ForcedFirebird]

Ah, I could see that being an issue with a MIG. TIG is so fast and accurate, don't know as if there would be an issue.

[328ijunkie]

^True but Most people only have access to MIGs and dont realize this lol.

[choleaoum]

Haha, no need for that man. From my experience, and having pulled and installed transmissions after the matter of the fact I would do it later.

I gotta admit, 100x easier to do it with the transmission still on the engine. Sounds like you just chained it wrong.

[ScHpAnKy]

I gotta admit, 100x easier to do it with the transmission still on the engine. Sounds like you just chained it wrong.

anybody ever dropped the car onto the subframe instead with the sway removed? I feel like it would be a lot less hassle for the shed-crew. (myself included)

[328ijunkie]

^first swap i ever did years ago we did this. it was a mother Fer. No lift. Had 4 people pick the car up and set it down over the subframe/engine.

[ForcedFirebird]

anybody ever dropped the car onto the subframe instead with the sway removed? I feel like it would be a lot less hassle for the shed-crew. (myself included)

^first swap i ever did years ago we did this. it was a mother Fer. No lift. Had 4 people pick the car up and set it down over the subframe/engine.

I have done it this way even before I had the floor lifts. Use a cherry picker and wrap a strap around the radiator support to pick the car up off the sub-frame and use large jack stands to hold the car up, slide the cradle out from under. Furniture dollies make the job even easier. I pulled a Camaro motor/trans in one afternoon by myself this way - wife had to come help me roll the dolly on the asphalt driveway, over the hump into the garage, though lol.

This was a popular way for us to remove engines from 1993-2003 Camaro/Firebirds.

Now that we have 2 lifts in the shop, we never pull engines out the top. In fact, we don't even take the hoods off for engine swaps/changes :)