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    #16
    Then you chained up the engine wrong.

    Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

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      #17
      Originally posted by shiboujin View Post
      Then you chained up the engine wrong.
      Haha, no need for that man. From my experience, and having pulled and installed transmissions after the matter of the fact I would do it later.

      Comment


        #18
        you haz a lift? I just pulled a trans from under a car with a floor temp of 30F. Plus bench pressing that trans into place is annoying. Fuck using jacks. I'm jacked BITCH

        Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by shiboujin View Post
          you haz a lift? I just pulled a trans from under a car with a floor temp of 30F. Plus bench pressing that trans into place is annoying. Fuck using jacks. I'm jacked BITCH
          Ha, no life, but that trans isn't that heavy. Nothing makes you feel like a beast like bench pressing a trans into place.

          Comment


            #20
            The lifting isn't the hard part. It's getting it in a position where you CAN lift it, then holding it long enough to get that input shaft in.

            I guess another lesson. lube your input shaft (lol), pilot bearing, and maybe clutch splines where the shaft goes in (lol)

            Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

            Comment


              #21
              E34 Oil Pan installation:
              http://www.e30dohc.com/wiki/index.ph...he_E34_Oil_Pan

              Throttle Cable:
              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=204497

              Providing power to harness:
              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=89476
              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=144753

              Cruise control on 24v:
              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=117594

              Installing electric fan:
              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...=232846&page=2

              Pilot bearing questions with Getrag 240:
              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=176853

              Replacing pilot bearing 24v:
              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...87&postcount=9

              Bunch of useful tips/notes I collected for my own swap:
              -Autozone reference site for E36 Motors- Link

              -theres a small 3 pin connector near the glovebox called the C104, in that is the fuel economy and tach signals, tach is the black one, i cant remember which was teh fuel economy, and the third is unused

              -m50nv’s do NOT have knock sensors

              -ECU 402 and 405 run Non-Vanos engines.

              -e28 motor mounts with about 1/2 (13mm) worth of spacers on e36 alloy arms, E36 alloy motor mount arms are necessary to properly place the engine in the bay.

              -You should really do a leak down test though. If the head gasket is fine, leave it alone.

              - getting the e34 oil pan and dipstick are necessary, as well as the sump tube. IF you do use an m50 from the e36 you have to remove the oil baffle as the e34 oil pan has it built in. there is a support for the e36 oil tube that is attached to one of the main bearings. If you opt to remove the bolts and the main cap you have to get new bolts and be sure to get the cap back on the same way it came off. or you can do it the easy way and bend the bracket until it breaks off, I would not attempt to cut it because where do the shavings go? While you have the pan off make sure you oil pump nut is VERY tight!

              - To digress a little, what ever flywheel you use you have to match it to the starter.

              - you need e28 535 engine mounts, the green rubber ones. e36 engine brackets. You can use the e36 power steering pump, etc

              - IF you have a 89+ car your cooling system will work, if not get a e36 radiator and 89+ surge tank and hook it up.

              - If you want to stay with a clutch fan you have to use the e30 one, it goes right where the e36 one comes off.

              - When you buy the engine, make sure they are sending you a complete running engine, includign the AFM as well.
              Transmission Information:

              -M20 stock flywheels require shaving 1/8" on the back side to avoid hitting the oil pan.

              -YES the Getrag 240 (from 90-91 318i/iS WILL bolt up to all M/S/50/52 blocks perfectly and will even line up correctly with the oil pan holes.

              -Use the pilot bearing that was meant for your motor.

              -People have used the m20 325i shift linkage along with it, it didn’t work for me so I shortened the 318 carrier and selector rod to work.

              -Use the E36 325i 5spd driveshaft with a e30 center bearing for best fitment. The E30 325i 5spd driveshaft can be used too.

              -If you're going to be running a single mass m20 flywheel use the euro 323i throw out bearing. Otherwise the stock one from the 240 should work with the m50 dualmass flywheels.

              -For transmission support use the stock unmodified e30 transmisson brace with the stock 240/e36 transmisson mounts.

              - Correct flywheel for lightening is 87-91 325i single-mass

              also some more useful specific links with descriptions:

              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=204497
              (throttle cable setups)

              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=89418
              (step-by-fucking-step pictures of a 3.0L Stroker M50!)

              http://www.e30performance.info/viewt...d=a&view=print
              (decent basic write-up!)

              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=115145
              (m50 rebuild tips)

              http://realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?mo...3&mospid=47498
              (m50 engine diagrams)

              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=162444
              (m42 to m50, step-through)

              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=190748
              (‘87 325, good parts reference)

              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=190650
              (pretty good parts list)

              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=146087
              (m42 to m50, awesome pix)

              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=71789
              (transmission and pilot bearing info)

              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=95025
              (g240-specific transmission questions)

              http://www.e3024v.com/board/index.php?topic=1280.0;wap2
              (mostly correct swap list)

              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...=160817&page=2
              (G240 fresh)

              http://www.bmwcca.org/forum/showthread.php?t=4326
              (vaguely tells you what you need for the swap from a bare block and accessories)

              http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=151762
              (CSB & Driveshaft help)

              http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthr...t=74889&page=7
              (step-by-step 325e to m50, clean!)

              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=160176
              (m52b28 into 318i, good wiring info)

              http://www.akgmotorsport.com/usm50swap.php
              (e34m50 -> e30m50 hang-ups, great pictures!)

              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=131118
              (early model 24v wiring)


              hopefully that's a pretty decent contribution and help to some of you, I went with a M50NV / Getrag 240 / M20 single mass flywheel and e36 325is driveshaft into an 88 325is for my particular combination so a lot of that information is specific to my build.
              Last edited by ScHpAnKy; 02-04-2013, 11:19 AM.

              91 318i | 87 535iS

              Comment


                #22
                you haz some bad info sir... too lazy to fix it.

                Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by ScHpAnKy View Post
                  a lot of broken links
                  It appears the "www." is missing from all the R3V threads you linked.
                  Originally posted by kronus
                  would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by agent View Post
                    It appears the "www." is missing from all the R3V threads you linked.
                    I fixed the 5 broken links, but that's a tremendous oversight from the site admin

                    Originally posted by shiboujin View Post
                    you haz some bad info sir... too lazy to fix it.
                    hmm, car runs and drives 100% so if you can point to it I'll fix it.
                    edit: yeah I read it 5 times and still can't find any.

                    91 318i | 87 535iS

                    Comment


                      #25
                      weld or safety wire the oil pump nut on while the engine is out and on a stand. i dont know from experience what happens when it comes off(uhhh cuz mine is welded) but i have heard and read about them backing off and BOOM. then you get a second opportunity to do it when you replace your motor

                      Comment


                        #26
                        M50s are also known for sheering off the gear shaft all together lol.

                        Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

                        Comment


                          #27
                          ^^^use the pilot bearing from your engine???? Your supposed to use the pilot bearing for whatever trans you use. S50 engine in my car with m20/g260 pilot bearing

                          Comment


                            #28
                            hence my comment of bad info.

                            Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by shiboujin View Post
                              hence my comment of bad info.
                              damn dude, that's a SHIT ton of bad info
                              for the record, m50 one works with the getrag 240.

                              91 318i | 87 535iS

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by ScHpAnKy View Post
                                -theres a small 3 pin connector near the glovebox called the C104, in that is the fuel economy and tach signals, tach is the black one, i cant remember which was teh fuel economy, and the third is unused

                                C104s are mainly in early models. Late model tachometers will work with just the c101 wired

                                -e28 motor mounts with about 1/2 (13mm) worth of spacers on e36 alloy arms, E36 alloy motor mount arms are necessary to properly place the engine in the bay.

                                - you need e28 535 engine mounts, the green rubber ones. e36 engine brackets. You can use the e36 power steering pump, etc


                                You don't need the spacers but they help. You can cut down the top threads down otherwise. Spacers ARE recommended though. E28 M5 mounts also work. AKG makes a pre offset bushing set though. All non AKG motor mount options don't incorporate the different tilt of the E36 arms with the tilt of the subframe.


                                - IF you have a 89+ car your cooling system will work, if not get a e36 radiator and 89+ surge tank and hook it up.

                                or M42 one or M20 late model one or make your own

                                - If you want to stay with a clutch fan you have to use the e30 one, it goes right where the e36 one comes off.

                                I've read this but never seen it in person. Every 24v swap I've done (5 or 6) has never been able to clear the fan without 2mm of gap. Not enough in my book. Supposedly a 524 diesel fan works but I've no evidence other than seeing it on a post somewhere.


                                -M20 stock flywheels require shaving 1/8" on the back side to avoid hitting the oil pan.

                                OR shave the oil pan. Some places will not shave the back of a flywheel.

                                -Use the pilot bearing that was meant for your motor.

                                Pilot bearings come in 2 flavors, ZF and non ZF. ZF uses a bigger inner diameter for the pilot bearing. Use the pilot bearing for the TRANS not the MOTOR.

                                -People have used the m20 325i shift linkage along with it, it didn’t work for me so I shortened the 318 carrier and selector rod to work.

                                With a ZF, stock linkages will work but you'll need a short shifter otherwise your shifter hits the center console. With a GR260, the carrier is fine but the linkage needs to be bent or else the shifter will be cocked off. I know nothing of the GR240 or GR250

                                -Use the E36 325i 5spd driveshaft with a e30 center bearing for best fitment. The E30 325i 5spd driveshaft can be used too.

                                E30 and E36 drive shafts are the same length but use different CSBs. For the ZF, an eta/E30 M3/4 bolt rear E36 328/M3 DS should be used. For the GR260, use a stock manual non eta M20 drive shaft. M42 ones are far too long.
                                Most aren't wrong, just overly vague and sometimes overly specific.

                                Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

                                Comment

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