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weld or safety wire the oil pump nut on while the engine is out and on a stand. i dont know from experience what happens when it comes off(uhhh cuz mine is welded) but i have heard and read about them backing off and BOOM. then you get a second opportunity to do it when you replace your motorLeave a comment:
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E34 Oil Pan installation:
Throttle Cable:
Providing power to harness:
Cruise control on 24v:
Installing electric fan:
Pilot bearing questions with Getrag 240:
Replacing pilot bearing 24v:
Bunch of useful tips/notes I collected for my own swap:
-Autozone reference site for E36 Motors- Link
-theres a small 3 pin connector near the glovebox called the C104, in that is the fuel economy and tach signals, tach is the black one, i cant remember which was teh fuel economy, and the third is unused
-m50nv’s do NOT have knock sensors
-ECU 402 and 405 run Non-Vanos engines.
-e28 motor mounts with about 1/2 (13mm) worth of spacers on e36 alloy arms, E36 alloy motor mount arms are necessary to properly place the engine in the bay.
-You should really do a leak down test though. If the head gasket is fine, leave it alone.
- getting the e34 oil pan and dipstick are necessary, as well as the sump tube. IF you do use an m50 from the e36 you have to remove the oil baffle as the e34 oil pan has it built in. there is a support for the e36 oil tube that is attached to one of the main bearings. If you opt to remove the bolts and the main cap you have to get new bolts and be sure to get the cap back on the same way it came off. or you can do it the easy way and bend the bracket until it breaks off, I would not attempt to cut it because where do the shavings go? While you have the pan off make sure you oil pump nut is VERY tight!
- To digress a little, what ever flywheel you use you have to match it to the starter.
- you need e28 535 engine mounts, the green rubber ones. e36 engine brackets. You can use the e36 power steering pump, etc
- IF you have a 89+ car your cooling system will work, if not get a e36 radiator and 89+ surge tank and hook it up.
- If you want to stay with a clutch fan you have to use the e30 one, it goes right where the e36 one comes off.
- When you buy the engine, make sure they are sending you a complete running engine, includign the AFM as well.
Transmission Information:
-M20 stock flywheels require shaving 1/8" on the back side to avoid hitting the oil pan.
-YES the Getrag 240 (from 90-91 318i/iS WILL bolt up to all M/S/50/52 blocks perfectly and will even line up correctly with the oil pan holes.
-Use the pilot bearing that was meant for your motor.
-People have used the m20 325i shift linkage along with it, it didn’t work for me so I shortened the 318 carrier and selector rod to work.
-Use the E36 325i 5spd driveshaft with a e30 center bearing for best fitment. The E30 325i 5spd driveshaft can be used too.
-If you're going to be running a single mass m20 flywheel use the euro 323i throw out bearing. Otherwise the stock one from the 240 should work with the m50 dualmass flywheels.
-For transmission support use the stock unmodified e30 transmisson brace with the stock 240/e36 transmisson mounts.
- Correct flywheel for lightening is 87-91 325i single-mass
also some more useful specific links with descriptions:
(throttle cable setups)
(step-by-fucking-step pictures of a 3.0L Stroker M50!)
(decent basic write-up!)
(m50 rebuild tips)
http://realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?mo...3&mospid=47498
(m50 engine diagrams)
(m42 to m50, step-through)
(‘87 325, good parts reference)
(pretty good parts list)
(m42 to m50, awesome pix)
(transmission and pilot bearing info)
(g240-specific transmission questions)
(mostly correct swap list)
(G240 fresh)
(vaguely tells you what you need for the swap from a bare block and accessories)
(CSB & Driveshaft help)
(step-by-step 325e to m50, clean!)
(m52b28 into 318i, good wiring info)
http://www.akgmotorsport.com/usm50swap.php
(e34m50 -> e30m50 hang-ups, great pictures!)
(early model 24v wiring)
hopefully that's a pretty decent contribution and help to some of you, I went with a M50NV / Getrag 240 / M20 single mass flywheel and e36 325is driveshaft into an 88 325is for my particular combination so a lot of that information is specific to my build.Last edited by ScHpAnKy; 02-04-2013, 10:19 AM.Leave a comment:
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The lifting isn't the hard part. It's getting it in a position where you CAN lift it, then holding it long enough to get that input shaft in.
I guess another lesson. lube your input shaft (lol), pilot bearing, and maybe clutch splines where the shaft goes in (lol)Leave a comment:
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you haz a lift? I just pulled a trans from under a car with a floor temp of 30F. Plus bench pressing that trans into place is annoying. Fuck using jacks. I'm jacked BITCHLeave a comment:
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I had the back jacked up and the front as low as possible, load leveler was just about maxed out, never again.Leave a comment:
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I think you just did it wrong. Get a load leveler. Worst case, you lower the front of the car or jack up the rear to gain more angle. SO much easier.Leave a comment:
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I will never NEVER remove/install engine while connected to the transmission from above. I would much rather put the engine in first and then wrestle the transmission on afterwards. I understand a lot of people do it that way, but don't. Sucked.Leave a comment:
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any swap. The 4 big bolts are in the same spot on all of the transmissions. Just make your life easierLeave a comment:
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