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Getrag 240 m52 swap driveshaft and tranny questions

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    #31
    ews stuff worked out good once I got the ecu figured out. I know all that other stuff, the car's runing but having issues going out of gear and curious about what slave cylinder I should be running.

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      #32
      Whats wrong with your original slave? Whats it doing? The only forseeable chage I can see is with the location of the clutch fork, but as long as you've got the 323 TOB (with the M20 fw, please say you're using one!) it should be at the right position (anyone else want to comment?).
      I remember mine was and ABSOLUTE bitch to bleed. I dont know why, it took ages, and I simply couldn't get it right. Although I couldn't feed it through under pressure from the reservoir, that was probably a problem. I dont have the luxury of a compressor!

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        #33
        Originally posted by zav3n View Post
        i just finished mine and im using the 240 w/ stock tranny mounts but i put a spacer underneath the mount. also you have to use a e36 325 manual driveshaft. and as asubimmer said you have to use a 325 shifter carrier and linkage. im also using a m20 flywheel and clutch w/ a m20 starter. my one suggestion would be to use a 3.73 lsd cuz with the 4.10 you fly though all the gears way too quickly and i top out at about 120-135 its kinda annoying when you kill STIs off the line and then the top end your hitting the rev limiter. lol..

        o ya stock guibo will be just fine

        ill post some pics of my tranny mounts w/ the spacers

        ps. thanks asubimmer for all your help w/ my swap

        -zaven
        damn beating STIs off the line? that sounds like fun. i cant wait to get mine finished. topping out at 135 isnt as bad as it sounds.. matter of fact youll prolly be safer than if you topped out at say 150..
        1991 318is nv m50 : brilliantrot

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          #34
          Originally posted by btec116 View Post
          Whats wrong with your original slave? Whats it doing? The only forseeable chage I can see is with the location of the clutch fork, but as long as you've got the 323 TOB (with the M20 fw, please say you're using one!) it should be at the right position (anyone else want to comment?).
          I remember mine was and ABSOLUTE bitch to bleed. I dont know why, it took ages, and I simply couldn't get it right. Although I couldn't feed it through under pressure from the reservoir, that was probably a problem. I dont have the luxury of a compressor!
          Nope, just like I said on last page, I'm runnin e36 clutch and flywheel and TOB.
          Bleeding it more is my next idea, we'll see how that goes, cuz its almost there but not quite letting the clutch fully disengage.

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            #35
            Ye, thats exactly what mine was doing. It did not disengage. Not even close. I wasted sooo much fluid (and skin and swearing), then I left it for a while and it came to. No idea why, since I didn't actually do anything, I just left it and had a few beers. I must have had some big bastard of an air pocket somewhere. I was going from auto to manual too, so that wouldn't have helped. The lines were empty. If you can, do it properly and pressure bleed it. I'm sure that would have done it in about 2 mins (which is about as long as it shuld take!)

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              #36
              Originally posted by btec116 View Post
              Ye, thats exactly what mine was doing. It did not disengage. Not even close. I wasted sooo much fluid (and skin and swearing), then I left it for a while and it came to. No idea why, since I didn't actually do anything, I just left it and had a few beers. I must have had some big bastard of an air pocket somewhere. I was going from auto to manual too, so that wouldn't have helped. The lines were empty. If you can, do it properly and pressure bleed it. I'm sure that would have done it in about 2 mins (which is about as long as it shuld take!)
              Spent a half hour tonight trying to bleed it, and no luck. Looks like its just a bit too short of throw from the slave cylinder. It'll drive great but you have to start out w/ the transmission in gear and then it'll run fine, Dips about 200rpm's when its in gear so its got a lil bit of slip, but not a ton of it... So its close but not close enough. It appears that next is to go to dealership and check out 21521116359 that part number. Looks like its a seperate rod for the slave cylinder. Gonna go see if its different than the one built in and possibly if its longer. Otherwise not sure what to do.

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                #37
                Make sure the throw REALLY is the problem. Seriously, mine was doing EXACTLY the same thing, I did the same, drove it and it eventually got soooooo close (after about 5-6 bleeds)! I cursed and left it a few hours, bled it one more time, and it worked. I think it must have been some really dirty pocket of air gettign trapped somewhere in the system.
                So unless you know for an absolute fact the throw is not enough, try pressure-bleeding it. Even try it in reverse (from slave). It might just work!
                Good luck...

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by btec116 View Post
                  Make sure the throw REALLY is the problem. Seriously, mine was doing EXACTLY the same thing, I did the same, drove it and it eventually got soooooo close (after about 5-6 bleeds)! I cursed and left it a few hours, bled it one more time, and it worked. I think it must have been some really dirty pocket of air gettign trapped somewhere in the system.
                  So unless you know for an absolute fact the throw is not enough, try pressure-bleeding it. Even try it in reverse (from slave). It might just work!
                  Good luck...
                  We have bled it with pressure bleeder, my dad and I have both bled it on several occasions. We've got over 5-6 bleeds between the two of us I'm sure and its not even close. We've got fluid going out constantly and it still isn't close.

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                    #39
                    Hmmm, you sound right then, I'll stop leading you astray! Sounds like its time for another SC.

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by btec116 View Post
                      Hmmm, you sound right then, I'll stop leading you astray! Sounds like its time for another SC.
                      haha, its all good, makes me rethink it all to be sure its all good. Ordered the alternate slave cylinder arm from the dealer, hoping its longer, otherwise thank god I'm in college cuz I'll just take it into the shop teacher and a friend is a good friend of his and see if he can machine me down a longer one and then since they have a rubber tip on them I'll just cut it to the length I need it and add the rubber to cover the cut.

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                        #41
                        I have an e36 325i five speed driveshaft it's to long do you guys mean 325is?
                        sigpic
                        24v swapped

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                          #42
                          I have the same clutch problem, it's not fully disengaging. I have a single mass E30 325i flywheel, 228mm disk and PP and a euro 323i bearing. I'm going to try bleeding it but it shouldn't need to be. I'll know more when my drive shaft goes in. I'm thinking of making a sleeve type spacer to push the fork out like 5mm further.
                          1985 325e 2.8 Turbo VEMS

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                            #43
                            Same30e what did you use for your flywheel bolts?
                            sigpic
                            24v swapped

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by e30love View Post
                              I have an e36 325i five speed driveshaft it's to long do you guys mean 325is?
                              they are the same.
                              ///Alpinweiß II 24v 91' 318is, Alpinweiß III 99' 323i, 04' Yamaha R6 SE for sale, 00' VW GTi, 83' El Camino BURNED, 01' P71sold, 92' Miatasold

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                                #45
                                Originally posted by e30love View Post
                                Same30e what did you use for your flywheel bolts?
                                The single mass flywheel bolts. They're cheap at the dealer, none of that cutting the dual mass bullshit.
                                1985 325e 2.8 Turbo VEMS

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