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  • kevdeno
    replied
    I believe so. If I remember correctly the second wire on the E36 temp sensor is a dedicated ground. The E30 didn't have that. It grounded at the head. Keep in mind all you're doing is providing your E30 temp gauge a signal (in this case it's a resistance value). If the E30 sensor had only one wire, that's all you have to worry about.

    Leave a comment:


  • driftingminor913
    replied
    Even if it the single pin? It will still work with the e36connector?

    Leave a comment:


  • kevdeno
    replied
    When I put the M20 temp sensor into my M50 head, I just plugged in the same connector into it. Then at the chassis to engine harness you just need to make sure the correct wires are connected. For me it was pin 4 on the E30 side and pin 12 on the E36 side, but check your sources on that to be sure.

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  • driftingminor913
    replied
    i just put the M20 single pin coolan temp sensor in my M50 head, is there a kit to wire it to the harness???? or do you have to Hard wire it into the connector on the firewall? i have been searching for this allday and no response

    Leave a comment:


  • MaxBell
    replied
    Questions about where the charcoal canister hoses from the fuel tank go?

    There's one hole on the top of the E30 canister and one hose that come up from the E30 fuel tank...just run that and block off the M50 throttle body one?

    Or should I use my M50 canister and run the hose from the fuel tank AND the throttle body.

    ALSO: I have no purge valve that I can see. Where would this be located usually? Does anyone have a photo of it that I can see?

    Obviously for the other 2 fuel lines, supply goes to the front, return is at the rear?

    Leave a comment:


  • JGood
    replied
    That setup is known to make 190-200whp with a proper tune. Mine made 188whp.

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  • BimmerTim
    replied
    It definitely will not produce 240whp. Maybe crank.

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  • constantPROj3ct
    replied
    Originally posted by kylebes1 View Post
    i have heard with a freer flowing exhaust, and filter cams alone will produce 240 hp for a m50, 2.5 bottom
    can anyone else verify this information is correct?

    Leave a comment:


  • Jand3rson
    replied
    Probably not, you're going to want to have it rebalanced. Don't try guessing where it goes back together, because you're probably not going to get it right the first time.

    Leave a comment:


  • xwill112x
    replied
    What setup for shift linkage do I need with a early E model trans? I have a early model D/S but it wasnt marked when seperated..How much does rebalancing cost? or can I just eye ball where the balance tac welds are and put it together?

    Leave a comment:


  • Jand3rson
    replied
    Need a quick part number, and searching for it isn't getting me anywhere.

    I need the part number for the M20 coolant hose that you use for running from the back of the 24V head to the heater core inlet on the firewall.

    Leave a comment:


  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by Janderson View Post
    A nice little tip I just came up with this evening.

    If you're removing the wiring harness from an engine you're about to put in, or removing it from your existing swap to do some work (like I am right now), get a container of white or brightly colored zip ties, some good wide ones.

    Zip one around the boot of each connector, and write what each connector goes to on the excess strap sticking the buckle, then cut them to length. No more guessing where they go! Do the same for your fuel lines, firewall coolant lines, brake lines, etc.

    I had a box of metal tags, it was just a small rectangular piece of very soft metal that you could wrap around stuff, and write on it with a pen. The ink wouldn't stay, but it embossed the metal, so it wouldn't wear off or anything during handling.

    I can't find them anywhere, but if I do I'm buying at least 1000.



    EDIT:

    Leave a comment:


  • Jand3rson
    replied
    A nice little tip I just came up with this evening.

    If you're removing the wiring harness from an engine you're about to put in, or removing it from your existing swap to do some work (like I am right now), get a container of white or brightly colored zip ties, some good wide ones.

    Zip one around the boot of each connector, and write what each connector goes to on the excess strap sticking the buckle, then cut them to length. No more guessing where they go! Do the same for your fuel lines, firewall coolant lines, brake lines, etc.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jonny Cash
    replied
    zf trans users, what's the m5 clutch combo youre using to use an oem single mass flywheel. (240mm?)

    And only those who have persoanlly installed an m20 cluth combo onto a zf- What modification was needed?

    Leave a comment:


  • yanal
    replied
    You can, but you also have to swap the 95 M3 differential guts with it, the input shaft has 6 bolts, while the e30 or the newer e36 m3 are 4 bolts

    Leave a comment:

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