The comprehensive DOHC engine swap thread.

[Matt-B]

http://bmwfans.info/

I only use that

[Mr.SWISS]

So this is is going to seem like a really dumb question, before I ask it, but...

Is there any kind of exploded/rebuild/reassembly guide/walkthrough on how to put everything back together on the M50? Like placement of all of the parts, where hoses and wiring goes, mountings, arms, attachments, etc? I'm at the point where I can start putting a lot of stuff back together, but don't exactly remember where it all goes... even a good collection of pics of the motor before tear-down would be helpful.

Not really aside from www.realoem.com.

[Jand3rson]

So this is is going to seem like a really dumb question, before I ask it, but...

Is there any kind of exploded/rebuild/reassembly guide/walkthrough on how to put everything back together on the M50? Like placement of all of the parts, where hoses and wiring goes, mountings, arms, attachments, etc? I'm at the point where I can start putting a lot of stuff back together, but don't exactly remember where it all goes... even a good collection of pics of the motor before tear-down would be helpful.

[bloodshot-e30]

i did that motor in my Z3 swap M44->M52 this go is M20->S52.

I did the E21 booster on my first swap and think it sucked badly. This go I was going to go with the THR booster but heard they just use the E21....

So how do you like the Audi booster? 1.8 T and it's Plug and play WITH better clearance?

the audi booster was GREAT! had a solid pedal and great braking!
ther was slight modifying on the pedal clevese (needed tapped to the booster push rod size and the booster push rod needed to be cut back a few threads.
ad for the brake lines they needed to be made to fit the stock ABS unit and the MC side needed the bigger line bolts.

[Mr.SWISS]

i HAD an M52B28 swap in my car.
Parts i used:
:OBDI swap
:Audi A4 1.8t brake booster and MC with custom brake lines
:GR260 with custom driveshaft
:Euro E36 M3 flywheel and stage 1 M3 clutch kit (240mm)
:318is radiator
:3.73 rear end
:E fan
:M50 VC and coil packs
:white 325is tranny brace
:E28 motor mounts
and all the normal stuff used for the swap!

i did that motor in my Z3 swap M44->M52 this go is M20->S52.

I did the E21 booster on my first swap and think it sucked badly. This go I was going to go with the THR booster but heard they just use the E21....

So how do you like the Audi booster? 1.8 T and it's Plug and play WITH better clearance?

Looks like you use the Audi MC also and I'm guessing the lines don't thread in?

[bloodshot-e30]

i HAD an M52B28 swap in my car.
Parts i used:
:OBDI swap
:Audi A4 1.8t brake booster and MC with custom brake lines
:GR260 with custom driveshaft
:Euro E36 M3 flywheel and stage 1 M3 clutch kit (240mm)
:318is radiator
:3.73 rear end
:E fan
:M50 VC and coil packs
:white 325is tranny brace
:E28 motor mounts
and all the normal stuff used for the swap!

[Mr.SWISS]

This info is for a 1996 e36 M52 engine:

The two wires from the temp sensor that run to the e36 instrument cluster are:
.5 BR/GE (Brown/Yellow)
.5 BR/VI (Brown/Violet)

The two wires from the temp sensor to the DME are:
.5 BR/RT (Brown/Red)
.5 GR/BR (Gray/Brown)

So it looks like you need to wire the M20 temp sensor to one of the wires that goes to the e36 instrument cluster. I don't know which one though.

Awesome, at least I can try one if not the other.

[luckysnafu]

Really ? Jordan told me on bf.c to just wire up the connector but I didn't get the info on what wire from the obd2 plug to splice.

This info is for a 1996 e36 M52 engine:

The two wires from the temp sensor that run to the e36 instrument cluster are:
.5 BR/GE (Brown/Yellow)
.5 BR/VI (Brown/Violet)

The two wires from the temp sensor to the DME are:
.5 BR/RT (Brown/Red)
.5 GR/BR (Gray/Brown)

So it looks like you need to wire the M20 temp sensor to one of the wires that goes to the e36 instrument cluster. I don't know which one though.

[Mr.SWISS]

It's easier to just run a wire from the M20 sender to your c101 connector. That's what I did and it works great.

Really ? Jordan told me on bf.c to just wire up the connector but I didn't get the info on what wire from the obd2 plug to splice.

[luckysnafu]

Anybody got the info for the temp sensor on OBD2? I want to leave the OBD2 temp sensor and tap the head for the M20 sender but what wires do I cut on the OBD2 plug to wire to the M20 sender?

It's easier to just run a wire from the M20 sender to your c101 connector. That's what I did and it works great.

[Mr.SWISS]

Anybody got the info for the temp sensor on OBD2? I want to leave the OBD2 temp sensor and tap the head for the M20 sender but what wires do I cut on the OBD2 plug to wire to the M20 sender?

[phreshkid]

Okay, there are way too many pages to go through to find specific answers to most of my questions. Believe me I've searched and i just need a solid answer for some questions.
I swapped a Vanos m50 into my 89 325i

1. Do i take the brown coolant sensor from my m20 and put it in place of the second sensor on the head of the m50 to make my temp gauge read correctly?

2. Tach doesn't work so what do i have to do? black wire in the glove box or something?

Appreciate any input

Yes! I just had this problem last week. You need the brown temp sensor off thr m20 and it needs to replace the black temp sensor closest to the firewall. Make sure the brown temp sensor only has one prong as it is a "sender" sensor meaning it only reports straight to the cluster. That should get you back in business.

[e30-325]

Okay, there are way too many pages to go through to find specific answers to most of my questions. Believe me I've searched and i just need a solid answer for some questions.
I swapped a Vanos m50 into my 89 325i

1. Do i take the brown coolant sensor from my m20 and put it in place of the second sensor on the head of the m50 to make my temp gauge read correctly?

2. Tach doesn't work so what do i have to do? black wire in the glove box or something?

Appreciate any input

[Wishno87]

Well if you can get rid of everything behind your ring gear that would help.

This is what I had.



You pretty much just need it to not interfere with the two back bolts on the back of the oil pan.

[phreshkid]

I would need a euro 323i TO bearing which I already have and I have an I flywheel/clutch combo but I am just curious as to how much needs to be shaved off the back, if any at all.

Thanks for your help Wishno, I'll search some more.