94 e34 m50 in 85 325e... no spark

[Jean]

I have a red 413 i bought from Artyr, if you want to borrow it let me know. just pay for s/h and see if that fixes your problem, when you get another ecu ship mine back. I won't need it for a month or so...

[416stroker]

Im prettysure a 402 and 403 are for a non vanos. You need a 405 or a 413 if you have a vanos engine. You sure you have a vanos?

[JGood]

Im prettysure a 402 and 403 are for a non vanos. You need a 405 or a 413 if you have a vanos engine. You sure you have a vanos?

haha, yes I'm sure it's a vanos engine, and it's a red 413 DME.



Jean, I may take you up on that offer. I'm going to try another chip that I have first, then I'll get in touch with you to work something out. Thanks a lot for the offer.

BTW... Did you ever contact Mark regarding those 318 H&R sport springs? I forgot to ask him about it.

[FredK]

There was two other plugs I disconnected from the engine harness right near there. I think one was purple.

That is the C136. Four pin connector, one occupied with a purple wire, that tells the ECU that the air conditioning compressor is on.

The other is the C131. On an automatic, it should be a BU/BR wire that tells the ECU that the car is in park or neutral. You probably already bypassed the Automatic Transmission Range Switch while switching to a manual transmission, by crimping/soldering the GN/BK wire to the GN/YL wire.

Without this, the car won't fire. I helped JPStriniste with his swap, and we were all ready to start the car. Well, it wouldn't start! Then I remembered he had an automatic, and didn't bypass the AT range switch. It fired right up after we bypassed it. However, this doesn't make sense for you, because you already had a functioning car after swapping to a manual on the original eta engine...

[Jean]

haha, yes I'm sure it's a vanos engine, and it's a red 413 DME.



Jean, I may take you up on that offer. I'm going to try another chip that I have first, then I'll get in touch with you to work something out. Thanks a lot for the offer.

BTW... Did you ever contact Mark regarding those 318 H&R sport springs? I forgot to ask him about it.

Yeah, he decided to keep them for his e30. I found a set locally a week or two go.

[JGood]

That is the C136. Four pin connector, one occupied with a purple wire, that tells the ECU that the air conditioning compressor is on.

The other is the C131. On an automatic, it should be a BU/BR wire that tells the ECU that the car is in park or neutral. You probably already bypassed the Automatic Transmission Range Switch while switching to a manual transmission, by crimping/soldering the GN/BK wire to the GN/YL wire.

Without this, the car won't fire. I helped JPStriniste with his swap, and we were all ready to start the car. Well, it wouldn't start! Then I remembered he had an automatic, and didn't bypass the AT range switch. It fired right up after we bypassed it. However, this doesn't make sense for you, because you already had a functioning car after swapping to a manual on the original eta engine...

It's been a while, where are those wires at? I wonder if I knocked something loose or broke a connection with all the work I was doing. I better check all that...

[FredK]

I'm not sure where it is on the early cars. On late cars, there's a 9 pin connector right next to the shifter called C306. It has the wires for the back up lights and the AT range switch. I think similar wiring must exist on the early cars, but I'm not sure what the connector (if there is one) looks like.

[JGood]

The only thing is, wouldn't it not crank at all, like with the m20, if this was the issue?

[FredK]

Hm. That would be true. If the GN/YEL and GN/BK wires weren't connected, it wouldn't signal the start relay to close, which would interrupt the ignition switch to starter terminal 50 connection, which would prevent the car from cranking. Well, scratch that idea then. :D

[JGood]

It still won't start. I swapped the chip, no change. I double checked that I have fuel pressure, and I do.

I don't know what else to do besides try a new DME. The engine management system is pretty self contained, as long as it has ignition, power, ground, and the starter wire. The relay is clicking, and giving voltage when it should (terminal 87 with key on), and everything else passes the Bentley manuals tests. It just won't spark.

[Mike B.]

I know it's a long shot, but are your fuel lines reversed?

I had similar frustrations at the end of my first swap and it was the fuel lines (I've actually made this mistake twice ).

[88E30M50]

Coil grounds?

+1

The ones I'm thinking of are the two that ground the valve cover to the block. They are on the #3 and #6 cylinders and run from the coil to the special valve cover mount nuts. I think those are the ground path for the entire valve cover.

[Jean]

Let me know if you still need to try another ECU, offer still stands.

[JGood]

There was only one coil ground when I pulled the engine (and it ran fine like that), and I actually added another one and ran it to the chassis.

The engine is thoroughly grounded.

I'll let you know Jean. Thanks.

[JGood]

BUMP.

Put the DME in another car and it fired right up. IT WASN'T EVEN GROUNDED, I was holding it in my hand.

I'm out of options.

I've checked everything 5+ times. I also just verified I'm getting ~530 ohms at the DME connector for the CPS (pins 16 and 43).

This is shitty.

How can I test CPS output signal?