Finishing up the swap, few minor questions

[JGood]

85 325e with 94 e34 m50.



Issue #1
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I have no tach function. I have:

• c104 pin 3 needs to go to x20 pin 24
• c104 pin 1 needs to go to x20 pin 14
• c104 pin 2 needs to go to... nothing
• x20 pin 20 needs to go to the wire at the green connector on the instrument cluster, for engine speed for the tach?

This is the info that I was given from this thread: http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=119147. What do all of these things specifically do? I've heard speed sensors, rpm sensors, tach sensors, etc... but I'm having trouble, even with the schematics, understanding their actual functions.
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Issue #2
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Radiator sensor. What is the sensor on the side of the m42 radiator, and what e30 wires need hooked up to it? It's a different type of connector, can I reuse the early e30 sensor from my 85 radiator? Also, where is the coolant level sensor on the m42 radiator? I just thought about this now, and I'm at work, otherwise I'd just look. But I don't remember seeing one, so what does everyone do for coolant level sensors?
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Issue #3
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Charcoal canister. Do I need it? How can I safely delete it, or hook it up properly? There is a connector on my engine harness for a one way check valve of some sort that I don't have, and am not willing to pay $70 for. I'd rather just hook it up without that switch, or remove the canister if possible. What are the options here?
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Issue #4
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Coolant lines to the airbox. What are these for, and what should I do with them? I could just pull that thermostat (or whatever it is) from the airbox and mount it somewhere... or should I just connect the two hoses? What is this system for?
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Other then that, everything seems to be OK so far. I was able to move the car under it's own power, in and out of my garage, which was an AWESOME feeling. The shifter is still way too far to the passenger side, so more bending of the selector rod is required. I'm having a very hard time bending it, as I already had to bend it in 2 spots to clear my vibration dampener when using the z4 shifter. I'm close to just cutting the tunnel hole, as that is what it's hitting, it clears the interior console no problem.

The driveshaft still isn't perfectly straight, but it's damn close. I'm going to give it a few days of easy driving and recheck it.


Thanks for everyones help, I would be nowhere without this forum.

[JGood]

Also, how the HELL do you tighten the passenger side motor mount to the motor mount arm? I can't use a ratchet with a short socket, even my extra thin one doesn't provide enough clearance to the headers. A wrench doesn't spin due to the mount arm shape. The only options I see are to remove the front header or grind down the mount arm to allow a wrench to fit. I'm not really excited about either option...

[JGood]

I think I figured out the coolant-to-airbox-to-throttle body thing. See the attached pic and let me know if this would be the proper way to delete that whole system. And yes, I'd prefer to delete it, the fewer parts the better.

[madjurgen]

Isnt that the throttlebody heater system? You might want that living up north.

[FredK]

Loosely, this is what I did to avoid deleting the throttle body heater. I removed the hose clamps from the pic for clarity. You should use hose clamps though. :mrgreen:

[JGood]

lol, did you draw that yourself, or is that an actual hose with a part number from the TB to the head?? I know those diagrams don't depict the actual shape of those hoses, so I'm just wondering if I can make a factory hose stretch, if I have to order one, or if I need to just make one that fits.

[hoveringuy]

I deleted all that crap. Cut the hose at the spider and plugged it. I think the fitting on the head screwed out and I put a matching plug in. The idea is that the air can freeze any moisture in the throttle body as it expands (and cools). I have never had a problem with 5 years of not having the system with either M20 or M50.

Having it with the M20 resulted in a large puddle of coolant on my garage floor one morning when the throttle body fitting corroded.

If you drive in a very cold climate keep it.

I also deleted my charcoal cannister, but kept the check valve connected to my harness. I don't have first-hand knowledge of removing the check valve resulting in "check engine" lights. Anyone?

[JGood]

I deleted all that crap. Cut the hose at the spider and plugged it. I think the fitting on the head screwed out and I put a matching plug in. The idea is that the air can freeze any moisture in the throttle body as it expands (and cools). I have never had a problem with 5 years of not having the system with either M20 or M50.

Having it with the M20 resulted in a large puddle of coolant on my garage floor one morning when the throttle body fitting corroded.

If you drive in a very cold climate keep it.

I also deleted my charcoal cannister, but kept the check valve connected to my harness. I don't have first-hand knowledge of removing the check valve resulting in "check engine" lights. Anyone?

Awesome. Thank you. How exactly did you delete this system? Did you just plug the lines going to the tank and the throttle body?

[FredK]

Yeah I just used a factory hose. I think I had to cut the bend off Hose 15, actually.

[dpgrand]

so you got rid of the thermostat?

[Jean]

What's the purpose of 11? I don't even see much about it in my e36 bentley, maybe I missed it...hmm

[dpgrand]

What's the purpose of 11? I don't even see much about it in my e36 bentley, maybe I missed it...hmm

That is what I'm wondering as well.

[JGood]

It's the "thermostat", it mounts to the factory airbox and allows coolant to pass through when it's open, to the throttle body. That's how I understand it, anyway.

[SpecM]

I'm very sure you can safely delete the EVAP system

[88E30M50]

Also, how the HELL do you tighten the passenger side motor mount to the motor mount arm? I can't use a ratchet with a short socket, even my extra thin one doesn't provide enough clearance to the headers. A wrench doesn't spin due to the mount arm shape. The only options I see are to remove the front header or grind down the mount arm to allow a wrench to fit. I'm not really excited about either option...

I had to resort to jacking the motor, removing the right side mount arm and then tightening it on the bench. Then I reinstalled the arm and tighten the lower mount bolt. When I tightened the upper nut, I left just loose enough to adjust the mount when I installed it, then finished tightening it with an open end wrench.