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For the price, they are nice. If you have metal working tools, you can get all the problems out of them.
Mr. Two, what are you driving? I didnt realize there was another e30 m50 in Franklin.
NASA MidSouth TT Director / GTS2 #018
Mods: Coastal PS Fluid, 10w40 Oil
Future Mods: Bosch Micro-Edge Wiper Blades, Painter's Tape, Spark Plugs, Freezer for Nutty Buddys, Adam Nitti CD's
I'll need to take a picture of the headers in the bay once I give them a good clean (any reccomendations?)
They're turning a nice shade of gold and purple.
Calypso right? Same color. I'll be painting the car satin black in all likelyhood this summer though. Right now the fenders, hood, and trunk are stripped to bare metal and clearcoated, since one fender had to be replaced and the paint was shot anyway. Looks nice and ratty.
I've had the same issues with the raceland long tube headers. I had to grind all the flange holes larger so it would fit onto the studs on the head. Had to remove the heat shield on the pass side motor mount arm. Also had to bang the rear tube so it wouldn't hit the transmisson near the the control arm. It barely clears the front sub frame, had to grind the subframe a lil bit. I just picked up a new subframe from the junk yard and I plan to cut and then box it for more clearance.
But I came upon a new problem today when i was tring to install the front sway bar. The bar rubs on the front down tube after the subframe. I heated and hammered the the pipe but i still need about 1/8 to clear when the sway bar moves a little bit. Anyone got any idea's on how i could mount the sway bar mounting bracket to the subframe abut 1/4 lower?
More Pictures. There is no way the sway bar is going to fit. Going to have to space the sway bar bracket down about 1/2 inch on both sides and hammer the down tube to fit. I'm making up some sway bar mount spacers this week and will report back with more photos.
You can see very little clearance on the subframe. I had to hammer the pipe and grind the subframe a little bit. No rubbing now. I plane to cut the subframe for clearance and box it.
You can see in this picture how much i had to hammer the down tube for sway bar clearance. But it's still not going to fit. Need to space the mounting point of the sway bar bushings.
Had to bang the pipe to clear transmission as seen it picture.
21mm sway bar from a convertible rubs. This is why spacers for brackets are needed.
Those of you with the SuperSpring replicas, have you had to do this much modification for them to fit? If so, I'm just going to stick with some OBD-II headers and call it a day.
Need parts now? Need them cheap? steve@blunttech.com Chief Sales Officer, Midwest Division—Blunt Tech Industries
I’ve got the SS replicas and had to do a fair bit of massaging to get them to fit. Clearance to the mounting arm was the most troublesome. Clearance to subframe took some work as well. All together it took me about 3~4 hours to get the fit where I was comfortable.
The trouble with the OBD manifolds is that you still have trouble with the subframe, unless you notch the subframe you’ll end up with a very tight bend coming off the front manifold.
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