S54 swap questions and concerns

[jink0619]

I didn't take pictures I don't think but should be plug and play

I also cut a piece of the bracket and just bent it back to hold it




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Your pump is different then on my m3, Ive replaced a late model pump before and it's simple, on the pump assembly there is a positive and negative wire so would just have connect them together but on the early models, there's no connector for the ground, it grounds to the fuel assembly, which makes me very curious to how it would work. My other problem and concern is if the new pump will work well with a two pump system, signs.

[WannaBe30]

I didn't take pictures I don't think but should be plug and play

I also cut a piece of the bracket and just bent it back to hold it




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[jink0619]

Here's a pic of stock pump. So power line goes up to connector and negative bolts up on tab that's connected to return tube. How would I wire up the new pump?

I did some research and realized that my 89m3 has duel fuel pumps, ,my intank pump looks exactly like an early model pump. So now comtemplating my options, either keep the duel or converting to single. The early model pump assembly is shorter then the late model so what i may do is cut the feed line on early assembly shorter to fit the new pump and add a return line or making it fit somehow. My worries will be, would it deliever enough fuel for the S54?

Does anyone have experience with this that can shed some insight?

[jink0619]

If the factory pump was grounded via the delivery assembely then I would do the same with the new pump but maybe use a slightly larger gauge wire and a new eyelet. BMW wired the pump the way they did because it works (and it did for 20 plus years) putting in a larger pump will draw more amps. Using a larger gauge wire for the ground should be more then enough.

It's also not a wire but a thin metal strip so maybe swapping out the new pump ground with something bigger like you said would work also I assume. I'll try that after I figure out a way to get the filter flap from the pump out the gas tank, it dropped in there while trying to test fit the new pump fml.

[dmjensen]

If the factory pump was grounded via the delivery assembely then I would do the same with the new pump but maybe use a slightly larger gauge wire and a new eyelet. BMW wired the pump the way they did because it works (and it did for 20 plus years) putting in a larger pump will draw more amps. Using a larger gauge wire for the ground should be more then enough.

[jink0619]

Help...anyone?

[jink0619]

Here's a pic of stock pump. So power line goes up to connector and negative bolts up on tab that's connected to return tube. How would I wire up the new pump?

[jink0619]

I bought a 300DW fuel pump(universal fit) from Deatschwerks, removed my stock fuel pump and it looks different from normal e30 pump, it has one line(power) from connector, where does the negative go? On the stock pump it's grounded to the pickup tube part on the housing. I would assume the same but worried it won't work.

[jink0619]

Nice!! Looks better than mine!

So there's a booster somewhere under all that?


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Thanks man, yea it's in there, amazing how there's a booster that small huh? Lol need to have the shaft modify and paint the booster to make it purdy.

[jink0619]

Sitting on the fuse box is the stuff I cut off. Still have to extend the Maf connection.

[Jb325is]

It's not listed on his site. Email him. You have to procure the balance bar and MC's, and you reuse the stock clutch pedal by trimming it up a bit. You do get a nicely CNC'd brake pedal. Might want a remote reservoir as well.



What size MC are you using and what are the piston diameters in those calipers? A more aggressive pad should definitely help.

I was going to use E36 M3 front calipers (60mm) and M roadster/coupe rear calipers (40mm, same as E36 M3) and they only require a theoretical 100lbs input force at the pedal for 1.0g deceleration using a 3/4" MC, 6:1 pedal ratio, and aggressive street pad CoF. 75lbs-100lbs is the target according to literature referred to in the following, very useful spreadsheet found here that I used to back up my calcs (FredK shared this with me, who happens to have Massive Lee's pedal setup that I shared):

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-chassis-brakes-tires-wheels/35856-spongy-pedal-new-wilwood-setup.html#post354616

Using a 5/8" MC is about 70lbs. I'd choose the 3/4" because I personally wouldn't want a super long throw, and sensitive brake pedal, which can be attributed to "mushy" feeling brakes.

My calipers have the same size pistons, and I'm using a stock late model MC, so 22mm I believe? My pedal feels great, the travel is pretty nice, I just don't have a lot of bite. I did have the stock brakes on the car when I first did the booster delete, so I do have that to compare it to and they are definitely a lot better than that. Stock brakes with booster delete = super hard pedal

[WannaBe30]

Nice!! Looks better than mine!

So there's a booster somewhere under all that?


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[jink0619]

I'm curious to see your after removing the plastic and rubber from the wire harness


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Here's what I did, for those using the e46m3 harness, wires and replay will fit in the e30m3 cover. I cut off all the rubber and plastic box from the harness and taped it up nice and tight.

*I test fitted the 2002 booster and Manifold, everything fits good.

[jink0619]

Thanks for the boosterless info guys, very useful for those who wants to go this route.

[FredK]

(FredK shared this with me, who happens to have Massive Lee's pedal setup that I shared):

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-chassis-brakes-tires-wheels/35856-spongy-pedal-new-wilwood-setup.html#post354616

I talked to gills, which was very helpful. I actually put the wrong value in my spreadsheet for floating or fixed caliper, which doubled my theoretical input forces! But now that my values are correct, I'm at 55 lbs with a .54 mu to get 1.0G deceleration.

I feel pretty good about my brakes now, with 57mm front 40mm rear calipers, 280mm front rotors, 282mm rear rotors. I had 54/38mm calipers and just wanted to reduce effort a touch. With my old setup of 5/8" front, 7/10" rear, I didn't have the placement accuracy I really wanted. I would start braking easily 100 feet before I had to in order to get to the apex repeatably at the right speed, which really leaves a lot to be desired for chipping away at time and getting more consistent.

We'll see, though. The travel IS a bit longer, and there is more knockback than there used to be, as the system is more sensitive to it. I'll be at the track in a few weeks and I'll have a better idea on how this iteration works for me.