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The m54b30 E30 build (NL)

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  • maxpostma
    replied
    Because I chose to the put the dme and all the relays inside the cabin, I only have around 10 wires in my bay that go to the fuse box. They can easily be taped together and snaked behind the engine. You won't see any of them.

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  • sebe20
    replied
    Oh the wiring,
    I just went with how it was, just covered it in scotch tape. And stuffed it under the cover. But I don't think that's an option for your clean look

    Gesendet von meinem SNE-LX1 mit Tapatalk

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  • maxpostma
    replied
    Originally posted by cwlo View Post
    Looking good! A few small details: Consider installing a shield to prevent the hot radiator air from entering the intake, and grommet the opening the wire goes through to the interior. Have you been able to tidy up the wires into the dme? I am still looking for a good solution besides lots of zip ties.

    Thanks for the tips, but air filter isn't really behind the radiator, will make a picture of this.
    The radatior setup is all done including all the water lines. Still have to do the aux fan though.
    Regarding the Dme wiring, just clean it up with gaffer-tape and zipties. something I will do very soon (hopefully)
    Last edited by maxpostma; 03-19-2019, 06:00 AM.

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  • cwlo
    replied
    Looking good! A few small details: Consider installing a shield to prevent the hot radiator air from entering the intake, and grommet the opening the wire goes through to the interior. Have you been able to tidy up the wires into the dme? I am still looking for a good solution besides lots of zip ties.

    Leave a comment:


  • maxpostma
    replied
    Originally posted by nando View Post
    what kind of paint did you use? spray can?
    Yes, a spray can with 207 lachssilber. Had some laying around from painting the sideskirts.

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  • nando
    replied
    what kind of paint did you use? spray can?

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  • maxpostma
    replied
    Another time is now, thought about painting it later on.
    But realised it's best just to do it now:

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  • maxpostma
    replied
    Another small update:


    Went to the local wreckers and picked up a m52 fuel rail for only 15 euro's (thanks for the tip Sebe20 :))

    Looks great and you can delete all the fuel hoses and the huge filter/pressure cilinder and connect the quick connect lines directly to the hardlines, perfect:


    Also bolted the Aliexpress terminal to the firewall. Convenient to connect the startermotor, ECU and fusebox.


    All the brackets had to go after I didged the idea of using the stock airbox. Germans really make sure that their brackets are mounted securely... :hitler:

    After playing with the dremel for a couple of hours:




    The remains:


    Still need to touch up the paint, but that's something for another time.

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  • maxpostma
    replied
    Originally posted by sebe20 View Post
    The brown sensor is for the gauge.
    If you want your pusher fan to switch on when coolant temp is at 97°C then you need a thermoswitch for desired temperature, a Relais and a 7.5-30A fuse. I put my thermoswitch at the radiator outlet in the elbow piece where the original temp sensor was. Run the wires from the switch to the Relais and let them switch your pusher fan. It's no longer controlled by the ecu but works perfectly fine. If you need a wiring chart I can hook you up.

    Gesendet von meinem SNE-LX1 mit Tapatalk
    Perfect, was already thinking of using a thermoswitch, but the diagram is really helpfull. Danke sehr!

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  • hoveringuy
    replied
    Originally posted by sebe20 View Post
    The brown sensor is for the gauge.
    If you want your pusher fan to switch on when coolant temp is at 97°C then you need a thermoswitch for desired temperature, a Relais and a 7.5-30A fuse. I put my thermoswitch at the radiator outlet in the elbow piece where the original temp sensor was. Run the wires from the switch to the Relais and let them switch your pusher fan. It's no longer controlled by the ecu but works perfectly fine. If you need a wiring chart I can hook you up.

    Das stimmt, exactly what I did. Mine comes on automatically or manually if I engage the A/C button.

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  • sebe20
    replied
    Originally posted by maxpostma View Post
    Thanks for the help. Isn't the e30 brown temp sensor for the gauge? Or are you also able to use it for the electric fan?
    The brown sensor is for the gauge.
    If you want your pusher fan to switch on when coolant temp is at 97°C then you need a thermoswitch for desired temperature, a Relais and a 7.5-30A fuse. I put my thermoswitch at the radiator outlet in the elbow piece where the original temp sensor was. Run the wires from the switch to the Relais and let them switch your pusher fan. It's no longer controlled by the ecu but works perfectly fine. If you need a wiring chart I can hook you up.

    Gesendet von meinem SNE-LX1 mit Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • maxpostma
    replied
    Originally posted by sebe20 View Post
    I think it's more likely a PWM signal to check if the fan runs?
    Would not recommend to directly wire the fan to the ecu, it would die. You could use it for a relais but im not 100% sure if that's the function of the pin.
    You need the E30 sensor with brown connector. That's the only one that worked out for me. The DME signal wont work.
    Thanks for the help. Isn't the e30 brown temp sensor for the gauge? Or are you also able to use it for the electric fan?

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  • sebe20
    replied
    Originally posted by maxpostma View Post
    I'm currently busy with the wiring harness.
    -is it possible to connect the electric fan signal wire (pin 4 x0004) of the ms43 dme to a pusher fan for the coolant radiator?

    -is it necessary to use an e30 coolant sensor for the gauge? Or is it also possible to use the ms43 signal and connect this to c101 pin 4?

    I think it's more likely a PWM signal to check if the fan runs?
    Would not recommend to directly wire the fan to the ecu, it would die. You could use it for a relais but im not 100% sure if that's the function of the pin.
    You need the E30 sensor with brown connector. That's the only one that worked out for me. The DME signal wont work.

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  • maxpostma
    replied
    Originally posted by dude8383 View Post
    Nice! Hopefully you didn't fry anything with that little hiccup. Sounds mean!

    Thanks, it's still open headers :)

    I checked the fusebox wiring and indeed some wires had to be taped up because the plastic was melted through. Removed the stupid ground wire and everything is fine now

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  • dude8383
    replied
    Nice! Hopefully you didn't fry anything with that little hiccup. Sounds mean!

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