PWM fan wiring help

[NvE30]

So i wired a PWM that i picked up at the pic a part exactly as i found in the instructions i wound on here. Power to battery post, ground to chasis and thin signal wire to X60004 terminal #4. The problem is the fan kicked on as soon as i connected the battery (ignition off) and stayed on, and it will not turn off unless i disconnect the battery. Is this a bad PWM? I dont have a lower outlet sensor on the radiator since I am not running AC.

[TobyB]

Take a look at www.newtis.info and see how it's wired in the E46- I forget if it's supposed to be wired to switched power or not.
If it's supposed to have switched power, it may just be in failsafe mode, because:

You have to have the lower sensor- that's what the ECU uses to control the fan speed. It only turns the fan
on when the radiator heat- soaks and starts sending hot water back to the engine.

This is where having communication to the ECU helps a lot- PASoft, INPA, etc will tell you what the ECU THINKS is
happening, and this really helps with troubleshooting.

t

[R3Z3N]

Yes, in the E46 it is NOT wired to switched power, so that it can run when the car is off to continue cooling. As stated above, you may need to finish your wiring for the radiator outlet and use some tools to see what is happening.

NewTis link click here. It is the same for the MS42 as well for those doing the M54...

Also here The rad outlet sensor plug is X87. T_ELUE is the PWM module. Hint: you can search for T_ELUE in the xdfs as well to tinker...

[NvE30]

Thanks for the responses. So I added the radiator outlet sensor to terminals 38 and 39 on the x60004. My question is does it matter if the sensor is threaded into the existing Upper port on the radiator instead of in the lower hose? I know it will be reading higher temps since it sits higher up. It was easier to mount it this way instead of having to find an adapter to fit on the lower hose. I have not run the car long enough to know if the fan kicks in but I hooked up an Autel scanner to it and the sensor was reading temps and no codes. I used an identical sensor to the one in the cylinder head. I also tried a different PWM and this one seems to work in that the fan does not come on when the battery is connected, so I am hoping it’s a working unit.

[R3Z3N]

Closest to the Rad outlet would be best. I brought my Aluminum rad to a welder, and for his minimum $40 he added and tapped a bung right below the outlet for me. I ended up not using it, but the current owner of my car could add the sensor if desired.