Yet another N52 -> E30 swap thread

[Panici]

Just got back from an epic trip to Glacier National Park with my wife and kids. Now, it's 115F outside and I have to install the new heater valve and get things buttoned up so I can get the A/C properly charged. Stay tuned....

Did you take the E30 on the road trip?
Looks like some great pictures; Making memories with family is important.

[LukeJ]

Did you take the E30 on the road trip?
Looks like some great pictures; Making memories with family is important.

There were definitely some places where I wanted to have it there, but no, we flew and rented a car. We had 4 small roller suitcases and one big one, plus a backpack each to carry on. It was rough getting to the airport in the Passat and then our rental car wasn't any bigger. One small suitcase rode between the kids so that probably was helpful. Not sure how I'd fit everything in the E30..... haha.

Yeah, it was a good time and we plan to go back. Highly recommended. We were a bit 'early' which meant that Logan's pass was still under 30 feet of snow and we had to take the long way around the south side to get to the east which is where these pictures were taken. (Apikuni falls trail) With the exception of the two pictures of the lake and mountains. Those were taken at McDonald lake from the Village Inn lodge. The snowed in road also affected access to many of the trails we planned to hike. There were wild strawberries everywhere on the east side but a few weeks too early on them too. We also were able to 'safely' view 3 grizzlies from the car, several mountain goats, 2 foxes, and probably 10 deer total. Some people are nuts when it comes to taking pictures with wildlife...

I was able to get the heater valve installed and everything put back together. The car is roadworthy again. Took my son for his first ride yesterday and he had a smile the whole time. We cut it short though since the A/C still doesn't make cold air. I have to take it in for evac and refill and that should be the solution. I hope.

Started working on finding out why the DME doesn't raise the idle when the A/C compressor is turned ON. Spent a couple hours wrestling with a stuck glove box. Had to remove the 3 screws in the back and then wiggle, push, pull, and then slowly break the handle off so I could then drill out the screws for the latch assembly. Good times. So at least I can access the wires again. Going to go see if there's a wire connecting the IVM to the DME.

[LukeJ]

While I tidy up the wiring and work on some other skills that are lacking. Here are some more pictures of particulars relating to my project.

First off, the upper radiator inlet tube. It's basically a U-bend that is modified to make a tighter bend. I used a portion of each of the hose part numbers shown in the other picture for the top as well as the bottom radiator hose.


Before I had access to a welder, I was anxious to do anything to move the project forward. Take for example my shortened shifter arm. I cut about 12" out of the middle and then made an 1/8" aluminum plate to be riveted to the end pieces to hold it together while the epoxy cured. Perhaps welding would have been better, but I'm going to go with this until it breaks or I come up with a better reason.

[LukeJ]

Along with the shorty shifter arm, a shorty DSSR was needed as well. The one I made before for the M20 was too long, so I made another.



Here's a couple pictures of the PWM fan controller and how I mounted it.



In the lower left of the last picture you'll see a little do-hickey I came up with. It's an offset radiator mount. It moves the bottom of the radiator 1/4" away from the motor. A quarter of an inch isn't much, but it helps with some clearance issues regarding the fan and makes the lower radiator connection a little easier. The radiator still installs the same as stock, it's just tilted slightly.

[DEV0 E30]

Sweet baby jebus.

Excellent thread.

With my mind still trying to decide what to do for the next swap, the N52 has become a new possibility on the short list.

I know you said you don't want to make a kit, but your oil pan is gorgeous, any thoughts on selling that?

I saw the mention of 115 degree weather... are you in Phoenix? If so I'd love to see this thing in person and pick your brain at some point.

If not, too bad, I'll still be seeking yours and others perhaps soon.

AC is a must for me too.

[LukeJ]

Sweet baby jebus.

Excellent thread.

With my mind still trying to decide what to do for the next swap, the N52 has become a new possibility on the short list.

I know you said you don't want to make a kit, but your oil pan is gorgeous, any thoughts on selling that?

I saw the mention of 115 degree weather... are you in Phoenix? If so I'd love to see this thing in person and pick your brain at some point.

If not, too bad, I'll still be seeking yours and others perhaps soon.

AC is a must for me too.

Thank you. Thank you.

The oil pan still needs some work. It was my first, and some things need to be fixed if there is going to be a 2nd. I skipped an important step and didn't pressure test it and there are some seepage leaks that amount to a drop a day. Nothing major, but not perfect either. I learned a few things that I would do differently next time.

Yes, I'm in Phoenix. Trying to stay out of the heat.

[LukeJ]

So I've been dealing with some of the pains of the engine swap the last few weeks.

Initially, it was valvetronic issues. Codes P1023 and P1024 kept showing up along with the lean condition codes. The car was not running very smooth and didn't inspire confidence out here in the heat. After talking to my "go to guy", I was inspired to remove the valve cover and adjust the eccentric shaft stop by adding a .050" washer under it and making it that much taller. Doing this, got me to the next level where I discovered the VVT motor was "shorting out" after it got warm. On cold start up, everything seemed to work good, but once warm the VVT motor would 'get stuck' and stay at one spot no matter the throttle position. I replaced the motor and the VVT issues were gone.

Now I'm working out some fuel issues and upgrading my fuel pump. The stock pump doesn't seem to be enough.

[DEV0 E30]

Thank you. Thank you.

The oil pan still needs some work. It was my first, and some things need to be fixed if there is going to be a 2nd. I skipped an important step and didn't pressure test it and there are some seepage leaks that amount to a drop a day. Nothing major, but not perfect either. I learned a few things that I would do differently next time.

Yes, I'm in Phoenix. Trying to stay out of the heat.

Understood, I'd be willing to help sort out things on the oil pan with another motor to test fit (maybe by the time it cools down here) if other things line up. No idea on too much of that yet, but this looks like the direction I'll probably go. And 1000% agreed on staying out of the heat, it's making me procrastinate on anything outside right now.

If you're up for a cars and coffee or something I've been going to these on occasion: https://fourtillfour.com/blogs/news/our-events --- Message me if you're up for going and I'll try to get there too.

Keep up the awesome work.

[projectJTv4]

Awesome documenting!

[LukeJ]

[LukeJ]

Awesome documenting!

Thanks!! Still working on it.....


Update:

I was able to get the car on the dyno yesterday and the results are posted above. Everyone wants to see a bigger number than they get, but I'm very happy overall with the results. When I set out to swap an N52 into my E30, 250whp was the goal. Close enough.

The last couple months, I've been trying to work out why I was getting codes P2096, P2098, and P0041. They are lean condition codes and suggested an air leak. I found the leak(s). My custom 3D printed adapters had deformed with the heat and cracked in multiple places. I had originally printed them in ABS as a proof of concept, since it's not really the right material for the job. But I got the engine running with them, and was hoping they'd last a little longer. Not bad considering the environment. So anyways, I strengthened up the design and had a new set printed in Ultem1010. Hopefully they last and don't leak. Time will tell.

[LukeJ]

Meanwhile.... I've been tracking down noises and reducing them when possible. One big annoying noise that developed was the ceramic substrate in the bank 1 cat came apart and was rattling around in the housing. I don't know if it's related to the lean condition codes and certain air leaks, or just a manufacturing defect? I called up Magnaflow and within a few minutes they suggested I contact Summit for warranty replacement. I called Summit and within another couple minutes there was a warranty replacement convertor on it's way to me. It arrived the next day. Excellent customer service from both companies.

The cruise control still doesn't work. I believe I wired it up correctly, but when I push the button while driving at freeway speed, nothing happens. Not a big deal, but I will be looking into this more eventually.

The A/C works great, except at idle. I need a CAN emulator or something like that to allow the DME to raise the idle when the compressor is activated. I just push the snowflake to shut off when I'm waiting at a light, or when it's hotter, I'll raise the 'idle' with my foot.

Another thing I added to the setup was an oil catch can. When I removed the intake manifold, I was surprised to see how much oil residue had accumulated on previously clean surfaces in under 1000 miles. The car wasn't running optimally a lot of that time, so perhaps... But, I decided to make one and install it while I had 'easy' access to everything when the manifold was out of the way.

[HCMW Adam]

Thanks!! Still working on it.....


Update:

I was able to get the car on the dyno yesterday and the results are posted above. Everyone wants to see a bigger number than they get, but I'm very happy overall with the results. When I set out to swap an N52 into my E30, 250whp was the goal. Close enough.

The last couple months, I've been trying to work out why I was getting codes P2096, P2098, and P0041. They are lean condition codes and suggested an air leak. I found the leak(s). My custom 3D printed adapters had deformed with the heat and cracked in multiple places. I had originally printed them in ABS as a proof of concept, since it's not really the right material for the job. But I got the engine running with them, and was hoping they'd last a little longer. Not bad considering the environment. So anyways, I strengthened up the design and had a new set printed in Ultem1010. Hopefully they last and don't leak. Time will tell.

LukeJ, great stuff and thank you for sharing. Are your intake adapters just sandwiched between the head and the N54 intake?

[hoveringuy]

Are your intake adapters just sandwiched between the head and the N54 intake?

I'm not running adapters.

The issue is that if you bolt-up the N54 intake as-is, there's a slight mismatch and it's offset by like 3-4mm, resulting in a small lip. There's a well known fix from the E90 community that offsets the holes in the manifold with a nylon bushing that lines it up again.

[LukeJ]

LukeJ, great stuff and thank you for sharing. Are your intake adapters just sandwiched between the head and the N54 intake?

Yes, they are 'floating' between the head and the intake on two sets of BMW intake seals. There is a 'keeper' that surrounds the adapters and holds them in position. The keeper and the standoffs are .750" together and the adapters are the same height. The keeper is laser cut 1/16" aluminum and I made the standoffs from BMW studs and some 4340 rod. I also made a support bracket under the manifold since it is not bolted directly to the head.