N52 oil pan design for Z4 engine arm based swap
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Awesome, thanks.
Do you mean a 24840? The DIY-ish kit or the 24800 for a chrysler or something else?Leave a comment:
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See post number 401. https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...cussion/page27
The bung was turned on a lathe to fit the oil pump and it has like a 7/8" ID or whatever the pickup is, which is just a stock Moroso 2480. The mount just picks up off two windage bolts (rember to get new ones!). I verified the height in the pan before tacking the last side piece in.Leave a comment:
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Hell yea buddy! Get after it!!
Turn your engine over with a wrench before you crank it. Hoveringuy found interference between the crank and the rear of the pan flange, and mine was so close I decided to bevel it anyway. Somewhere in a thread I have some pictures of some play doh showing how much clearance I had.
I thought my mig welding would be good enough but chased bubbles again and again with the pressure testing rig we built. Take a deep breath and don’t rush that part.
One of the bolts at the front also takes some peening to slip in. Watch out for that. You might find insetting a section of pipe to be easier.Leave a comment:
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I like! It's like a metal origami project, right?? What gauge for the pan material? 18? I did bash mine when I went off the track and re-entered, it smacked the bottom pretty good and there's a tiny gouge now, no bigee...
I haven't decided if it's better to tack the pan together and then do the bead to the heavier flange, and then go back and finish the pan, or to do the flange last. It does tend to want to warp a little doing the flange so doing the pan last might make that easier?
The bends are important. A cheesy Harbor Freight bender won't get the crisp bends you want and will leave you with soft radiuses that won't fit together well.
Excited to see your finished pan!!Leave a comment:
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Let me start by saying without your incredible work, i would not have thought i could undertake this project.....
I lowered the pan by 1/2" added a little notch for rack clearance, added some clearance for the crank and for the bolts, and added some slope to the rear of the pan.
The bottom of the pan is still higher than the steering rack, and considering i havent had a problem in 10yrs with an m50 pan, i think it will be ok for me.
I will be glad to share the files, i ordered the parts mostly pre bent, the small bends i did in a vice.
When the design gets better finialized we should figure out a group buy or something, the price drops considerably when ordering in quantity.
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I used a rigid tube dipstick that was like $20 from Jegs. I didn't like the idea of the floppy one because it depended on a good connection up top, my tube is basically self-supporting and I just use a zip -tie to the intake manifold.What dipstick are you using? I havent looked too much, but i am thinking something along these lines : https://www.amazon.com/Canton-Racing...7-93deae8f9840Leave a comment:
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What dipstick are you using? I havent looked too much, but i am thinking something along these lines : https://www.amazon.com/Canton-Racing...7-93deae8f9840Leave a comment:
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Love the energy, just please understand that the solicitation here is for oil pan wishlist items for a front sump oil pan. With the new (as of like... last night?) N5x subforum, go bananas with a separate subframe development thread.Leave a comment:
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Defiantly need a trap door of some sort in a baffle. The key is they don't open past 45* to keep slosh / reserve down. Rubber ones are nice. Just spitting out what I know from over the years.Leave a comment:

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