No need for the electronic sensor if you have a dipstick. I wired my original M20 one in so my check panel would work, but it's not required and will require modifying the pan and baffle to install, as well as adding wiring to the engine harness.
I would check to see if you can upgrade to the later N52 valve cover and PCV system, they don't have the return to the oil pan.
N52 oil pan design for Z4 engine arm based swap
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Hey guys (incl hoveringuy) - I'm just about to get my oil pan welded up (thanks for the file Hoveringuy). When getting the engine ready I see a few things I hadn't thought about earlier. Is there any need for the crankcase return pipe? From what I see on other builds this has been deleted. Also, do I need the electronic level sensor (I'm planning on putting in dipstick). Thanks from a newbie!Leave a comment:
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This is great work! Do you know when Harpor Fab plans to start manufacturing these?Leave a comment:
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The finish is Type 1 Alodine.
Fits great, lots of room at the steering rack means I can eventually move the engine back an inch.
I have the CAD for all of this, happy to share!
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Final answer for the aluminum oil pan. Some changes on this one, which was now completely cut and bent to reduce welding and increase accuracy. All of the pieces fit GREAT and I there wasn't even 1/32" gap anywhere.
The pickup is completely 3D printed in aluminum as well as the strainer, which uses a cylindrical screen to give it a small diameter while keeping screen area. This keeps the hole in the top plate small.
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No, but the CAD will be available plus Harper Fab will be making them (or similar...) https://harperfab.com/products/e30-24v-oil-sump-v3Leave a comment:
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Aluminum pan is done, and while it's perfectly serviceable I think I can do better....
New version is going to have the wing extended another 30mm to recover the oil capacity I lost by adding steering rack clearance. The top of the wing will also be higher, to allow better internal breathing and more importantly room to add baffling from the inside.
Finally, the pickup fits and works fine, but I'll optimize that design to be more direct which will increase bolt access, move the pickup closer to the passenger side (which is the critical side for extended left-hand turns..) while also making that pickup cheaper by $30 to print.
I'll be able to get those for around $50 which is Ok in my book...
Oh, and E36 dipstick in money!!
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One idiot's opinion- 5053.
The 6061 will still be weak at the welds, and be more likely to split if pummeled.
But honestly, I'd use whatever was in the metal rack...
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1018, 1019, whatever it takes....
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Baffle is basically in, just need to tack it to the pan and cut the top plate. Final capacity is 4 1/2 Qts, moving the rear bulkhead 20mm cost about a quart of capacity compared to the steel pan, but I'd be able to move the engine back another 3/4". This pan is also a skosh shallower in front than the steel pan for even more clearance.
What is the "proper" amount of oil in a pan? My philosophy is that it really doesn't matter as long as oil that doesn't have entrained air is being fed to the pump in all conditions. I envision the oil while I'm at the track of looking like a Cappuccino, with fluid on the bottom and a frothy mixture of oil and air at the top.
I don't want my oil to enter the center chamber directly, but through one of the side chambers. This gives the oil some time to settle-out and by the time it gets to the middle hopefully the air has escaped.
The holes in the baffle trap doors aren't huge, the idea being that in a 20 second sustained turn oil is constantly being fed into the center.
Other questions I have is, is it better to build the pan out of 6061 so it's "strong" or 5053 so it's pretty strong, but won't crack if it's hit?
Also, I am clearly not a fabricator. My aluminum skills are still a work in progress (although I'm pretty good with CAD). Check-out Kyle's work over at Harper Fabrication: https://harperfab.com/ He's interested in extending his line to the N52/N54 and when he does I'll be first in line! He has the technology to extend the pan wing to the passenger side by installing the bolts through access covers.
and with cover...
Last edited by hoveringuy; 05-10-2025, 06:01 PM.Leave a comment:
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The oil strainer is a mockup. It will be 3D printed, but it's being done in ULTEM GF which is good up to 340F or more. I'm comfortable with that because it's a no-stress part. It could also be done in aluminum, naturally, but it would weigh more which would stress the aluminum pipe above it more (which could also be done in a high-performance polymer...)Leave a comment:
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Is that 3D printed part supposed to be a long term solution, or is it just a mockup for a metal machined part coming? My concern is how well it will hold up to the heat of the oil/engine. Like is there a possibility for it to melt or degrade and get into the oil?Leave a comment:

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