I’m joining the club

[LukeJ]

When installing and removing the N52, I would use a ratchet strap to prevent the engine from rotating counterclockwise. I hooked it to the eye on the hoist and then to the engine arm. There is a metal portion of the valve cover where the strap will lay, that seems to be made for this. Once I started to lift the engine off the motor mounts, I could snug up the strap to help keep the engine level left to right.

[projectJTv4]

When installing and removing the N52, I would use a ratchet strap to prevent the engine from rotating counterclockwise. I hooked it to the eye on the hoist and then to the engine arm. There is a metal portion of the valve cover where the strap will lay, that seems to be made for this. Once I started to lift the engine off the motor mounts, I could snug up the strap to help keep the engine level left to right.

That's a great idea! I'll definitely do that next time. Once the engine/trans, I understood why it kept wanting to rotate counterclockwise. Thanks!

[projectJTv4]

I finally had a chance to pull some parts off of the car.



Accelerator Pedal + connector and wires
Fuel Pump Controller + connector and wires
OBD2 Port + connector and wires

CAS, JBE, Cruise Control
Seat harness connector and wires. Useful for retrofitting E9x seats



Brake Booster also pulled from my donor car.
Intake Manifold + Harness pulled from another 330i at LKQ, pick your part.

The last couple of things I want to pull are the driveshaft and brake calipers.

Anything else worth salvaging before it gets towed away Friday morning?

[Panici]

Engine is out! That's a big moment.

Just in case you didn't know, the top arm of the engine hoist can adjust outwards. Usually makes things easier with it at full extension. Also a longer chain between the arm and load leveler.

[hubcapboy]

definitely dig the fuel pump relay out because it's controlled by the ECU... other than that you'll need your throttle pedal, engine harness beyond the ECU...

Don't shed tears over that connector. That's your water pump and it's the first "really this only lasts that long" item on these engines. They rarely go 100k, so if it's original to the car chances are you'd want to replace it during the swap anyway.

[projectJTv4]

Engine is out! That's a big moment.

Just in case you didn't know, the top arm of the engine hoist can adjust outwards. Usually makes things easier with it at full extension. Also a longer chain between the arm and load leveler.

Thanks! My inexperience is definitely showing... haha. Lot's to learn, appreciate the advice!

definitely dig the fuel pump relay out because it's controlled by the ECU... other than that you'll need your throttle pedal, engine harness beyond the ECU...

Don't shed tears over that connector. That's your water pump and it's the first "really this only lasts that long" item on these engines. They rarely go 100k, so if it's original to the car chances are you'd want to replace it during the swap anyway.

Fuel pump relay... too bad all of the relays in the engine bay were removed. Did you mean the control unit for the fuel pump? I grabbed it based off of LukeJ's list.

16147229173 - control unit for fuel pump, located behind rear passenger seat, pictured above
35426858575 - accelerator pedal acquired

I'll add water pump to the list of items to be ordered under maintenance, thanks!

[hoveringuy]

I finally had a chance to pull some parts off of the car.



Accelerator Pedal + connector and wires
Fuel Pump Controller + connector and wires
OBD2 Port + connector and wires

CAS, JBE, Cruise Control
Seat harness connector and wires. Useful for retrofitting E9x seats


Brake Booster also pulled from my donor car.
Intake Manifold + Harness pulled from another 330i at LKQ, pick your part.

The last couple of things I want to pull are the driveshaft and brake calipers.

Anything else worth salvaging before it gets towed away Friday morning?

I don't know if you're planning on using all of the original EWS components (key, receiver, module..) or just flashing an EWS delete tune, but the EWS delete tune essentially turns the car into a Z4 which has a different CANBUS protocol than the E90's. E90 has D-CAN and E85 gas K-CAN, or something like that.

Upshot is that it changes the CAN communications protocol so that the E90 EKP won't work anymore, you'll need an X3 or Z4 one. You can tell because they will have the "CAN11h" on them. The E90 OBD plug also won't work, you'll need add the wires for K-CAN.

Also, that booster and manifold won't co-habitate in the same space.

[projectJTv4]

I don't know if you're planning on using all of the original EWS components (key, receiver, module..) or just flashing an EWS delete tune, but the EWS delete tune essentially turns the car into a Z4 which has a different CANBUS protocol than the E90's. E90 has D-CAN and E85 gas K-CAN, or something like that.

Upshot is that it changes the CAN communications protocol so that the E90 EKP won't work anymore, you'll need an X3 or Z4 one. You can tell because they will have the "CAN11h" on them. The E90 OBD plug also won't work, you'll need add the wires for K-CAN.

Also, that booster and manifold won't co-habitate in the same space.

I initially did want to run all of the original EWS components, but it became quite cost prohibitive with this donor car. It did not come with keys, and I will leave it at that.

I do plan to just have the EWS delete tune.

Interesting note about the DCAN and KCAN. I'm fairly certain there is KCAN because I've seen diagrams and discussions for retrofitting seats. For my E92 and F32 seats, I bypassed the KCAN or whatever BUS by using a pulse generator to keep them awake. I'm hoping to keep the JBE just to see if I can get the memory function to work on the seats. But that's outside of the N52 swap.

Thank you for the picture reference, I'm planning on hitting another junk yard tomorrow. I'll see if they have any X3 or Z4's around and try to snag that fuel controller.

I'll look into a smaller booster to keep the manifold.

[projectJTv4]

To follow up, I found a graphic showing the different communication protocols from this website: https://ohptools.com/blogs/news/whic...k-dcan-or-enet



My donor car/chassis/parts came from a 2006 330i, so I have K-LINE as the communication protocol, per graphic.

Not to be confused with the different bus systems





ACC - Active Cruise
AFS - Active Front Steering
DME - Digital Motor Electronics
DSC - Dynamic Stablity Control (Dynamische Stabilitats Control)
EGS - Electronic Transmission Control
EKP - Electric Fuel Pump (Elektrische Kraftstoffpumpe)
LDM - Longitudinal Dynamics Management zz0.6fla8ri3g32zz

[DEV0 E30]

Nice!

[projectJTv4]

Wiring fun:

Accelerator Pedal Connector 61138383300






Color shifting wires for the accelerator pedal wiring.

---

Wiring Harness, Injection Valve / Ignition 12517566976



1 - oil pressure switch > 12618611273
2 - oil / coolant temperature sensor > 13621433076
3 - VANOS solenoid, exhaust > 11367585425
4 - valvetronic eccentric shaft sensor > 11377524879
5 - camshaft position sensor, exhaust > 13627525014
6 - VANOS solenoid, intake > 11367585425
7 - camshaft position sensor, intake > 13627525014
8 - air conditioning compressor > 64526956716
9 - thermostat > 11537549476
10 - coolant pump > 11517586925
11 - valvetronic eccentric shaft actuator > 11377548388

*ignition coils > 12138616153
*spark plugs > 12122158253
*fuel injector > 13537531634

---

Wiring Harness, Engine Module 12517563098



1 - crankshaft position sensor > 13627525015
2 - differential pressure sensor > 13628657300
3 - angle connector > 11618638014
4 - fuel tank ventilation valve with pipe > 13907618643
5 - throttle body > 13547516946
6 - hot-film air mass meter > 13627520519
7 - secondary oxygen sensor > 11787545074
8 - secondary oxygen sensor > 11787545075
9 - oil condition / level sensor > 12617607910
10 - alternator > 12317543083
11 - adjuster unit (disa 2, inner) > 11617560538
12 - primary oxygen sensor > 11787558055
13 - primary oxygen sensor > 11787558073
14 - adjuster unit (disa 2, inner) > 11617560538
15 - ping sensor > 13627566785
16 - ping sensor > 13627566785

**starter connection goes to central box

mass air flow sensor > 13627520519
coolant temperature sensor > 13621433077 this is on a lower hose, next to radiator
DISA 1 ?
DISA 2 ?
throttle ?
crankcase breather valve ?
intake air temperature sensor ?
intake manifold pressure sensor ?
fuel tank vent valve ?

Most of the connections were already separated before me so I was not able to take any pictures before I fully removed the harness.

Can anyone help me figure out the items in red??

3/7/23 - updated the items in red, need to double check










12 - primary oxygen sensor > 11787558055
13 - primary oxygen sensor > 11787558073
*reverse light switch > 23147524811

---

Success in finding OEM exhaust manifolds with catalytic converters from a 2006 325i; 77 miles away in the middle of nowhere and about 1.5 hours to remove.



exhaust manifold with catalytic converters > 18407545308
exhaust manifold with catalytic converters > 18407545309

I don't know if its due to California's strict emissions, but the prices of these go for the same as a cheap N52...

[Panici]

What is up with those colour shifting wires?? Looks wack.

Is it just discolouration from oils? Did you try a solvent on them?

[Caperix]

2 is the manifold pressure sensor in the intake, 5 is the throttle body, 4 is either the starter solenoid or the tank vent valve, 6 looks like the air mass, 3 & #11 should be the disa valves, 14 looks to be the crankcase vent heater, yours looks melted.
A e83 x3 coil harness will get you a single wire compressor clutch wire that should play better with the e30.

[LukeJ]

If (#8) is a larger gauge white wire, the one that looks melted in the pictures. It goes to the starter solenoid.

The good thing about the wiring, is that they are all the right lengths to go to where they connect.

The other thing is every connector is different on each particular harness. There is only one connector that will fit the MAF for example.

(#2) is the intake manifold pressure sensor.

(#3) is the crankcase breather heater.

(#4) could be the fuel tank vent valve.

(#5) is the throttle body.

(#11) and (#14) are possibly the DISA wires.

[projectJTv4]

What is up with those colour shifting wires?? Looks wack.

Is it just discolouration from oils? Did you try a solvent on them?

Yeah... I tried solvent, no affect. It looks and feels as if a heat gun was too close to it, but unknown. I just have to keep in mind to to trace the pins and not rely on the colors for this one.

2 is the manifold pressure sensor in the intake, 5 is the throttle body, 4 is either the starter solenoid or the tank vent valve, 6 looks like the air mass, 3 & #11 should be the disa valves, 14 looks to be the crankcase vent heater, yours looks melted.
A e83 x3 coil harness will get you a single wire compressor clutch wire that should play better with the e30.

I may have to consider the e82 x3 coil harness you mention, we'll see how usable this harness is. I'm actually missing a connection one one of the DISA valves.

If (#8) is a larger gauge white wire, the one that looks melted in the pictures. It goes to the starter solenoid.

The good thing about the wiring, is that they are all the right lengths to go to where they connect.

The other thing is every connector is different on each particular harness. There is only one connector that will fit the MAF for example.

(#2) is the intake manifold pressure sensor.

(#3) is the crankcase breather heater.

(#4) could be the fuel tank vent valve.

(#5) is the throttle body.

(#11) and (#14) are possibly the DISA wires.

Thank you, all!