It's purely to increase the amount of spline on the driveshaft. In stock configuration, a large section of the shaft is not even used. A thicker guibo pushes the shaft into the TC farther engaging more spline for a stronger connection.
Front driveshaft guibo mod (fatter flex disc edition)
Collapse
X
-
-
I have found multiple part numbers for an X5 centering flange. They seem to appear visually identical, including the part suggested in this thread:
E53 X5 M54 3.0i: 26117507533
E70 X5 N52N 3.0si: 26207567717
This Thread (not specified): 26201227191
Does it matter? All the same price too (lowest I could find is $67) Only difference is availability of shipment from vendorsCurrent State: '88 iX
Two Doors, Three PedalsComment
-
To add to this, the centering flange that supercedes the older one can be used. I had to trim the centering pin in mine to get it to fit, but nothing more than like 4mm. I'm the picture you can see how I trimmed the new flange. It really wasn't much.I have found multiple part numbers for an X5 centering flange. They seem to appear visually identical, including the part suggested in this thread: E53 X5 M54 3.0i: 26117507533 E70 X5 N52N 3.0si: 26207567717 This Thread (not specified): 26201227191 Does it matter? All the same price too (lowest I could find is $67) Only difference is availability of shipment from vendors
Comment
-
Comment
-
These are great pictures! Did you end up not using the torx bolt that goes where you trimmed on the lower housing? Or did just leave it out completely? Did you remove the lower housing to trim or do it on the car? The centering flange I used was PN 26117507533. I think the older ones were slightly different and didn't require trimming, but this PN specifically wouldn't have fit without the trimming.I figured I might as well post pictures of my iX with this mod. (been almost 2 years now) I removed a bit more material at the flange, so I can push the hole axle even further back when fitting the centering flange and guibo. I didn't need to shorten the X5 centering pin.Comment
-
Thanks! I decided to don't use the torx bolt as there is very little thread left anyway.. I don't see any harm IMHO.These are great pictures! Did you end up not using the torx bolt that goes where you trimmed on the lower housing? Or did just leave it out completely? Did you remove the lower housing to trim or do it on the car? The centering flange I used was PN 26117507533. I think the older ones were slightly different and didn't require trimming, but this PN specifically wouldn't have fit without the trimming.
I did remove the brace so I could use an end mill on the manual mill at work to remove the material. I actually went a little bit too deep and the aluminium teared in one spot. I used some epoxy to cover the small crack on the inside (transmission side) so there is less chance that unwanted dirt/water can get to the flywheel/clutch.
I didn't know about the new part no's. I should have a look which one I got. I do remember getting a used centering flange from Ebay.Comment
-
-
Comment
-
It should be about 1/4". That's 33% more spline area. The stock engagement is only 3/4", it's clearly not enough - especially when the lubrication dries out..
is that molykote stuff still available? I still have my original tube. As long as it doesn't go bad, it should be enough for my entire lifetime, lol.Comment
-
It's still around. Not cheap. You can get an 8lb bucket of the stuff for 1k... 5oz for 13 dollars. I think even that much might last a while.It should be about 1/4". That's 33% more spline area. The stock engagement is only 3/4", it's clearly not enough - especially when the lubrication dries out.. is that molykote stuff still available? I still have my original tube. As long as it doesn't go bad, it should be enough for my entire lifetime, lol.Comment
-
It will take a while if you do it that way, but it's possible. It's only aluminum so the real issue is your grinding wheel getting clogged.Comment
-
Comment





Comment