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Project: Lela! (she loves it on all fours :) )

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  • imwhyteyo
    replied
    Did alittle wire action..! New upgraded grounding straps for the engine. I will be creating a new starter/alternator power wire out of 0awg. In red (for the theme)
    After the alternator gets a internals rebuild and a sandblast if the outer case, this will allow me the chance to start considering wiring of amplifiers for the extreme stereo I'll be installing.







    Also tinkered with the spark plug wires.. hard to make these look any cleaner.. I'll be relocating the ignition coil far away from the potential of heat from the turbo. Under the intake mani it goes!




    Someday I wish to mimic nando with his wasted spark design. Wanna fab up some stuff for me buddy ? ;)

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  • imwhyteyo
    replied
    [QUOTE,=nando;4031446]Nice. I don't really think there's too much difference between 4300k and 5000k, what really stinks are 6000k or those retarded 12000k lights. ugh.[/QUOTE]

    It takes a very particular eye to notice... but a good way to tell the difference is through a projector. That helps deflect the light as if thru a prism.. now say the cars traveling a quarter mile down the road.. you see the car hit a bump and the angle changes revealing an off tone of color opposed to the white color itself. 5000k you'll see that blue flicker. 4300k you'll see a yellow/purple flicker. The difference surely is minor. But I'm picky.. I have been doing HID retrofit systems and hobbying the tech for almost 10 years so it's easy for me to spot. You'll notice most Bosch projectors (audi / VW / porsche) have that slight blue hue to them.. where Stanley projectors (acura, lexus, etc.) Give that "brown" light I call it.. (yellow/purple) this is from the quality of glass being used. Most universal HID based projectors are Borofloat for the thermal properties.. but the nice quality projectors, Fused silica glass types heck ever swarvosky crystals are even being used in some Mercedes Benz lenses now. Now when these guys put hid light systems into halogen based projectos, that we find in ALL of our e30 ellipsoid, euro, Or usa the light dispersion is scattered alot more.. generally those lenses are acrylic ... or lead based glass. This is where we see stronger color deflection and loss of direction in lumen. Most people fail to realize this and stuff these type of projectors into ellipsoid and think because there's a cutoff that it isn't blinding the oncoming traffic. Of course it isn't as bad as a reflector based housing.. but it's not a 100% direct path. The cutoff shield quality and design of reflective material in the e30 projector bowl was only engineered to handle the small wattage and minor lumen production of a halogen bulb, maximizing it's output and efficiency.. overpowering it with an hid bulb creates an overflow of light so to speak, as well the heat changes the property in the acrylic and makes odd deflection . All qualities of material failure, danger of fire from melting units or from failed circuits, as most people don't even run relay harnesses.. also, danger to blinding other drivers as well, this is why I always recommend a professional install of a relay harness at the least, but an hid based projector housing retrofit is always the better way.
    Last edited by imwhyteyo; 02-19-2014, 01:03 AM.

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  • nando
    replied
    Nice. I don't really think there's too much difference between 4300k and 5000k, what really stinks are 6000k or those retarded 12000k lights. ugh.

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  • imwhyteyo
    replied
    Originally posted by Nisse Järnet View Post
    Nice, are those 4300k?
    Yes. 5000k is too blue and actually has less lumens. Even though many people would argue this. They are oem osram xenarc d2s 4300k bulbs, philips ballasts, with acura tsx xenon projectors. The lenses were modified to make a crisper cutoff line at 25 - 30ft. All oem level adjustments still can be utilized. It's a very confident and lasting setup. I did want to post pictures of my install, but I provide retrofitting services to people at a price and cannot reveal this as I have with many other things I've shown.
    Last edited by imwhyteyo; 02-17-2014, 12:00 PM.

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  • Nisse Järnet
    replied
    Nice, are those 4300k?

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  • imwhyteyo
    replied
    Today I got quite a bit completed. I installed my hids, hard wired and installed a relat/fuse kit. Low beams and fog lights are done. Debating what to do with the high beams... Also tinted the fog lenses as well. 300 install to stay yellow without doing the typical yellow film.






    Let there be light! (Notice there isn't any tint of blue! ;))

    Odd color from camera. . It's a super white, purlle. More white.


    All together:




    Another large taste of the day was relocating the factory oil cooler to the front lower opening of my valence. I think this location makes things much more efficient and Fills the void nicely. Bending the lines was difficult, especially pulling them away from the turbo manifold, I may put a little heat reflector onto them to isolate temps even more. Thoughts?





    It could be cleaner, but I feel it got it as even and level as possible. It's far away from the bottom of the valance too so chances of damage are very minimal now.

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  • imwhyteyo
    replied
    My mistake on calling it a valve. I'm doing the work from my phone, typing is difficult.what I meant to Say removing the valve, and tapping in the iat, sensor. Horns were installed to make sure people know when I've arrived to pick them up. (Mainly my girlfriend from work) and to make sure idiots driving in the city K ow.to stay in there lane. A lot of dumb drivers in my area. Gotta keep the warnings loud as possible!
    Last edited by imwhyteyo; 02-17-2014, 01:00 AM.

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  • Northern
    replied
    I love that IAT setup. When/if I ever revisit my charge piping setup, I may steal that idea.

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  • EyExR
    replied
    Going the extra mile... Looks fantastic.

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  • Nisse Järnet
    replied
    If using regular gas my experience is that it works well, atleast above -5 or so. On E85 its worse :P But can work quite well actually.
    On most aftermarket ECUs you can get a similar effect with different ign tables that advances or retards ignition depending on set idle rpm etc. Works really good but offcource a icv is the best way :)

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  • nando
    replied
    Maybe if you don't drive it in cold weather, or every day.. its annoying without it day to day, trust me. Tuning has little to do with it. :)

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  • Nisse Järnet
    replied
    I dont think cold starts will be a big problem, im not using ICV and its allright with the right tuning :)

    Btw that heat deflection makes a big diffrence! Without it, smoke will come out of the wheel well :) (or what its called) At least without a turbo hat.

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  • nando
    replied
    Yeah, cold starts aren't going to be fun. :(

    Looks great though! Nice to see so much effort put into an ix!

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  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by imwhyteyo View Post
    Found a means of eliminating my expansion tank finally.

    Looks OE... part number? Does it clip onto the radiator? What radiator is that?

    Originally posted by imwhyteyo View Post
    I sprayed both fender wells, and underbody with lizard skin

    heat deflection installed. No angle spared here.

    [URL=http://s1071.photobucket.com/user/maneshorin/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140212_232301.jpg.html]
    I appreciate that you mention what products you're using. Thanks.

    What heat deflection product is that?

    That's a very neat job installing it, as you're well aware. With that level of attention to detail, you could definitely find work as a technician building satellites, if you wanted. Not kidding... I've worked on the engineering side of satellite and space systems integration.

    Originally posted by imwhyteyo View Post
    Altered throttle body. Tapped for iat valve, eliminated icv.

    The IAT is not a valve.
    What are you planning to use to control idle?

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  • TehRaydarlover
    replied
    Looks great! What's with the air horns? Better not be planning a Dukes of Hazard jump in this thing lol

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