Project: Lela! (she loves it on all fours :) )

[imwhyteyo]

Guages


Getting this thing pieced together and ready for fab work


Another little pickup.


Test fittings

[imwhyteyo]

More stuff.

New guage cluster for the vent to rid of that cheapo thin plastic heap.





Finally got my completed set of rear trailing arm bushings. Akg originally was missing an outer busbing from the seT(7 of 8pcs.)


Finished my fuel line setup, although I think I will be welding permanent threaded fittings for all the lines, so I may wrench on and off the lines as needed for testing. This setup is only temporary so I can have it running. Realized now that 4an just wont cut it, and will make sure the lines work for 6an and will adapt appropriate fittings as such. Welded, and the threaded, not clamped.



I also got to get back to alittle luxury stuff.. I turned this:..






Into this! With some extra parts :)





Of course I need to get a few extra led bulbs to match the interior lights. These halogens dont do much for fully illuminated trunk space, although the extra bulb housing does help substantially.

Stay tuned for my mext retrofit I started after the trunk.. im adding e36 vanity mirror lights into the rear passengers area for lighting in the back seat! Fit and flush and lots of lights for passenger convenience. The position is perfect, ill also be completing my rear component speaker setup as well in preparation for the trunk false floor setup for the stereo. This speaker system will be a force to be reckoned!!... prepare for ear bleeding, chest pounding, organ disorienting action!!


I have a fetish for lights, stereo, and cleanliness.

My goals are oem+... all my mods I feel not to be too extravagant, though, instead the way a "fully loaded" E30 should have been.


Also scored a clean new custom center console idea, ready to go to go along with the e36 seat install. Definitely stay tuned!!. You wont want to miss this.

[imwhyteyo]

Considering that ball bearings are toleranced to .0001 out of the box, it's not necessary.

Now, there is wear. Obviously the cages, stars and cups wear from continued pressure by the balls on the same locations.

HOWEVER, the balls are VERY hard... much harder than the cages, stars and cups... so the balls wear only a tiny bit compared to the other components. ALSO, what little wear the balls experience is spread across their entire surface area, while the wear the cages, stars and cups see is concentrated in small areas.

Mic the balls... I'd be surprised if you can find ANY difference among them. Be careful with handling the mic, as you can see a change of .0001 from it warming up from room temp to body temp in your hand. I've seen this happen when checking piston pins.

Right, we agree on some level.. I definitely didnt mean the balls woyld be out of round, tolerance etc.. but I should have added keeping the cages and stars in the same location as well. Not the balls alone.. I understand this is the impression my earlier post suggests. Sorry!

[The Dark Side of Will]

im partial to agree its not 100% necessary, but ive always done it this way from back when I was taught to do so by a friend who was an old indy race mechanic. Its good practice and im sure the slightest .001"+/- difference in bearing size could pose a potential wear issue. Heres to.playing it safe :cheers:

Considering that ball bearings are toleranced to .0001 out of the box, it's not necessary.

Now, there is wear. Obviously the cages, stars and cups wear from continued pressure by the balls on the same locations.

HOWEVER, the balls are VERY hard... much harder than the cages, stars and cups... so the balls wear only a tiny bit compared to the other components. ALSO, what little wear the balls experience is spread across their entire surface area, while the wear the cages, stars and cups see is concentrated in small areas.

Mic the balls... I'd be surprised if you can find ANY difference among them. Be careful with handling the mic, as you can see a change of .0001 from it warming up from room temp to body temp in your hand. I've seen this happen when checking piston pins.

[DER E30]

How bad is it if you dont know this? :) Never messed with CVs before..

You're supposed to drop them on the floor and then spend like 20 mins looking for them. Clean them off and you're good to go.

...At least that's how it happens for me

[imwhyteyo]

You don't need to keep the balls in the same sockets they came out of.

im partial to agree its not 100% necessary, but ive always done it this way from back when I was taught to do so by a friend who was an old indy race mechanic. Its good practice and im sure the slightest .001"+/- difference in bearing size could pose a potential wear issue. Heres to.playing it safe :cheers:

[The Dark Side of Will]

You don't need to keep the balls in the same sockets they came out of.

[Nisse Järnet]

Important to distinguish where the ball bearings go back into.

How bad is it if you dont know this? :) Never messed with CVs before..

[imwhyteyo]

And some of you might be wondering what happened with this mess:




Well. Heres what happened
1: sandblasted every peice inside and out, all internals of rust, debris, amd corrosion.
2: removed all solder from original locations and heavy duty wiring.
3: shortened internal heavy wiring contacts and resoldered everything heavily with fresh clean solder.
4. Reglazed all necessary areas with a special anti electric coating, except contact points.
5. Dielectric greased contacting points except the brushes.
6. Installed new brushes, refurbished copper brush surfaces.
7. Sandblasted and powdercoated shell, fan, and pulley according to engine theme.
8. Assembled with as much new hardware as I had on hand.

*DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DO THIS IM THE EVENT YOU WISH TO TRY PAINTING YOUR ALTERNATOR. REMOVAL OF THE SHELL DAMAGES YOUR INTERNALS AND UNLESS REPAIRED PROFESSIONALLY WILL MAKE A FAULTY, OR UNUSEABLE ALTERNATOR WITH AN EXTREME POTENTIAL TO CREATE A DANGEROUS FIRE HAZARD!!! Do not try unless you know what youre doing, otherwise - ask me! I offer the service to rebuild and beef up, and or paint your alternator. Just PM. me please. I didnt take pictures of the process specifically for this reason. I dont mind people following other things ive done, but I dont want to see you guys burning up your cars trying this on your own.

Anyways.. heres the aftermath.






And the test results are in!.. all good baby girl!

[imwhyteyo]

Didnt get a whole lot done today, I had to start working on the 91 coupe quattro project alittle bit. But I got some simple wiring things done, also finished something extra special! Ill let pics do the talking.


So these are the starter wires, theyre in good shape, but they just wouldn't stay connected to the starter. So, I cleaned up the terminals, added a few new bits.. professional style, and routed the wiring as tidy as possible.
Heres the old:


Snipped back for clean wires.


Crimped, soldered, and heatshrinked, these will NEVER go bad.



These bolts dont have to be torqued incredibly tight folks, alot of you guys are really slamming these things in there causing the studs to strip out, making it almost impossible to remove. A good trick to avoid this is to double stack two nuts prior to adding the ring terminals and tightening with a third with a wave or lock washer. This way if the contacts get corroded or rusted tight, or if you overtighten youll be able to fit a small wrench behind it to hold thimgs in place. But of course a tiny dash of anti seize makes all the difference in the world.

[nando]

Cool. I need to swap a set to my E34 shafts.

[imwhyteyo]

one question what did you use to get the ABS rings off the CV shafts? did you just pry on them?

I used a chisel, punch sort of thing and slowley worked it off with light tapping. Work each side out slow and steady so that it comes out evenly. Once it cracks it starts going much quicker. Edit: crack meaning it separates from the inner collar sleeve, not cracking the actual part meaning damaging lol. Obviously you know you dont want to damage those things at all.

[Nisse Järnet]

Ive got the filter down there on my rwd E30 turbo, its a nice spot :)

[nando]

one question what did you use to get the ABS rings off the CV shafts? did you just pry on them?

[nando]

yes, but you don't have to lower them that much. AWDBOBs are lowered like 8" or something like that. if you go with a shorter adjuster, you don't have to lower it as much. if you cut 2" off the tube and use a 3" adjuster the perch will be 5" lower. I have 2" shorter tubes with a 4" adjuster, and the last inch is basically useless as it would contact my tires anyway. Plus the car would be too low.

the spring diameter on coilovers is typically much smaller than stock.