$126 for inners and outers? I was on bma few days ago and didn't see these ball joints you're talking about..you have a link? I'm needing ball joints too
Sent from my GS4 Active
New 325IX Owner...here's a list of things I'll be doing..
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According to a friend who used to be big into domestic cars, moog is a solid brand for balljoints. No personal experience though.Leave a comment:
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I can get MOOG Balljoints from BMA for a total of $126 shipped - or I can get Lemforder inners from Rennsport for $160+shipping and outers from FCP Euro for $80+shipping. Ever heard of MOOG? Should I steer clear, or would I be alright to just go that route?
Thoughts?Leave a comment:
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Hahahaha...Rightchu you are, Chris!! I know a lil' bout these little 12valve clickers. haha
Ok, thanks for the advice! I'll just grab some of that and call it a day.
And yes, I also assumed the same, Chris - that the CAs were actually not for IX's. Too good to be true, usually!Leave a comment:
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it says they are but the price indicates it's not.
this isn't exactly the first time in internet history that a no-name company listed a standard part as fitting the ix.. honestly.
also, the picture isn't an ix control arm. it's too small. and when you search for the part # they list, it also says it fits a 325i
http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/search/?q=520-732
so yeah.. not for an ix.
as far as coils, plug wires, etc. if they aren't damaged, there's no reason to replace them. cap and rotor are wear items of course, but coils and plug wires are generally not.
lucky for Sean this isn't his first M20 rodeo so I think he knows this stuff already. :)Leave a comment:
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They are not for an ix is my guess.Hey, have you guys ever heard of these?
http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/520-...iy078yse0MDwgu
Seem super cheap to me...too good to be true. lolLeave a comment:
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Just drain it, dont flush. I liked valvoline max life, it helped with the shifting and it works well with old seals.Leave a comment:
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I'm looking at buying the outers from FCP and Inners from Rennsport ($40/ea and $79/ea respectively). I'll also just buy a press. lol
What about thoughts on my automatic transmission? I figure I should do the fluid & filter while I'm under there - might as well ensure she doesn't get upset with me! Do I just run the normal ATF? And, what about fluid in the torque converter?Leave a comment:
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OP, you should also consider distributor cap/rotor, plugs/wires, coil, all belts(pretty cheap from ecs) and if you're going to replace timing belt/water pump/thermostat?( I would) go head and do the cam seal too since you're already there.. ONE big thing is to check your fuel lines and probably replace them anyway, its really cheap and easy to do along with the fuel filter, this was something I over looked when I picked up my IX about 2 months ago and had a crazier fuel leak then a squirting porn star at wal-mart parking lot... because the lines were rotted out. oh and if you really want oem control arms? the cheapest I found them was for around $200, but I would just replace the ball joints
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Hey, have you guys ever heard of these?
http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/520-...iy078yse0MDwgu
Seem super cheap to me...too good to be true. lolLeave a comment:
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I was planning on purchasing the inner and outer balljoints and reusing the arm, since the whole assembly is insanely expensive!When referring to ball joints, do you mean the control arms' ball joints? Since you are replacing the control arm bushings, just do the arms themselves as well.
Don't bother which wheel bearings unless they are already going bad.
Like every M20, if you don't know for certain that the timing belt was replaced in the last 7 years or 50k miles, this this before you drive it much further. You should do the water pump and tstat while you are in there.
Timing belt was recent - PO had the head off less than a yr ago I believe (I need to go thru and document the things he told me). We traded cars, so I'd like to believe we were both very honest with each other.
Was planning on all fluids pretty soon - debating on doing this all at the same time right now, or waiting until I move into my house...gotta decide haha.TIMING BELT! don't even question it!
I have the same leak from the axle passageway for the passenger side axle. I wouldn't worry to much about it. It is from the differential.
I would also do all fluids. (and replace all fill and drain plugs especially the front diff plugs. )
Ok, that makes sense. But, I should still seal up that axle passage, right?
And thanks...kinda worried about what I'm getting myself into. But, this winter, with 4 snow tires, I am hoping for some MAAADDD snow :)
That's the plan, with the ball joints.i recommend you doing the ball joints inner and outer and use the old control arms ...they are different than regular e30's and alot of $. secondly the oil leak at the right front axle is from two seals ...1 the axle seal and 2 theres an oring sealing the oil pan from axle . i would reseal it mos def. i would do the wheel bearings if your gonna have the front totally disassembled to do struts and ball joints etc...
I'll take a look at those seals. Easy to replace?Leave a comment:
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i recommend you doing the ball joints inner and outer and use the old control arms ...they are different than regular e30's and alot of $. secondly the oil leak at the right front axle is from two seals ...1 the axle seal and 2 theres an oring sealing the oil pan from axle . i would reseal it mos def. i would do the wheel bearings if your gonna have the front totally disassembled to do struts and ball joints etc...Leave a comment:
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Motor oil can't leak through the axle passage. There is no opening into the pan.
Congrats on the ix :)Leave a comment:

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