Bummed—Should I part out my '89 IX?

[Phoney36]

Bought my '89 IX 12 days ago. M20 engine purrs and pulls strong. Drives nicely. Have been going through changing the fluids (front and rear diff, checking front shaft splines--looking good and well lubed now).

Here's the main issue... looks like the PO let the transfer case go dry. When I went to change the fluid nothing came out when I opened the drain plug. I suspect it's been this way for a while. I filled it up with ATF and took it for a drive. Still drives wonderfully. No sounds no grinding. (magnet on drain plug was pretty clean). Got home and it was leaking ATF fluid all over the exhaust system.

Car is all original. Needs new bushings on most of the suspension, was planning on doing the front CV boots since they're original. The steering rack leaks pretty good, so that needs to be done too. Minor cosmetic things (which is normal for a 24 year old car).

Got the car for a really good price, so I'm not worried about losing money (can part it out and get most of it back). It does have a branded title, which was okay with me since I didn't ever plan on selling it again. Just wondering the cost to value now. I know new xfer cases are money.

Always wanted an e30, and an IX specifically. Now that I have one, I'm wondering what's the best course of action. I had to walk away from it tonight to just think and mourn a little bit.

Gonna do the jack test tomorrow and jack up one side of the car to test VC.

So... what would you do?

P.S. I've read lots of threads on rebuilding the Xfer case, but none show how to drop it out of the car. Do you need to drop the tranny? Tranny and engine? Neither? Everything? Is it just a $3 seal that just needs replacing (in my dreams).

Thanks in advance.

P.P.S. Here's a picture. (sigh...)

[nando]

seals are probably bad. if it's not making noise, maybe it's saveable. the seals aren't a big deal to replace, but you have to pull the case of course.

either way, I don't understand why you'd part it out over the transfercase, unless it's got some really bad rust or something. the transfercase is rebuildable.

you don't need to drop the transmission. you need a lot of long extensions, remove the exhaust, driveshaft, etc.

[z122643]

seals are probably bad. if it's not making noise, maybe it's saveable. the seals aren't a big deal to replace, but you have to pull the case of course.

either way, I don't understand why you'd part it out over the transfercase, unless it's got some really bad rust or something. the transfercase is rebuildable.

you don't need to drop the transmission. you need a lot of long extensions, remove the exhaust, driveshaft, etc.

What he said...

[nomansland92]

I wouldn't even consider parting that car, hell I wish my Ix starter out that nice. Looks pretty nice from the picture, I mean if course it can use some cosmetics and mechanical work but nothing major to make it a great dd.

You can get transfer cases for a few hundred just make sure it's from someone reputable so you know it will work. I've yet to have mine out but I know can take them out with out removing the tranny. Once you remove the mount I believe you can tilt the engine and tranny down to give you more access to everything.

Hope this helps

[Phoney36]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Last night, when I posted, I was super bummed (and maybe a little melodramatic). After sleeping on it, I've decided I still need to keep working on it, even if it has a bigger issue than I was expecting.

As an interesting FYI... before I filled up my transfer case, my speedo wasn't working, including odometer and mpg guage. Did all the normal cluster testing and sending unit testing, including continuity test of the wires. Everything looked good. Once I filled up the xfer case, speedo and odometer started working. That doesn't make ANY sense to me. Maybe someone can explain.

[Northern]

Check your speed sensor in the rear diff, then check the connectors and first few inches of wiring. They rot out often.

[EyExR]

keeeep it

[Phoney36]

Any favorite sources for all the new seals? I read a lot of threads recently and I know I saw part numbers out there. I'll have to go back and find them, unless there's a kit for rebuilding the xfer case.

[audiquattrot]

don't part that thing.

[chuckdizzle]

don't part that thing.

Agreed. The IX's must live on, there are less and less of them around.

[Phoney36]

Okay. I've been shopping around on the For Sale section looking for a good used transfer case, and most seem to be more reasonable than I thought (budget wise).

So, the question is, what are the essentials I should be looking for in a used transfer case? Is there any way to bench test one before putting it in the car or cracking open the case?

I'll get as complete of a history as I can, but many come out of cars with unknown histories.

Thanks again for everyone's help. I'm looking forward to getting my car back on the road ASAP.

[audiquattrot]

i don't know if this is a proper way of bench testing a tc.....but I've compared a bad one vs a known good one off the car, and there seems to be more resistance in spinning the the shafts (holding one end down). I had a buddy hold the driveshaft side of the tc, while i tried spinning the front shaft (with the shaft inserted into the tc)....and i found more resistance in the good one.

[Phoney36]

Thanks for the tip. I just recently checked the front shaft on my car, making sure the splines were good, and when turning the front shaft to gain access to the bolts on the quibo there was quite a bit of resistance (car was in neutral).

[imwhyteyo]

With the case out you can also do this by hand. Put the front shift back Into the splined side with it on your bench and grab hold of the rear output flange. Try turning the front drives haft by hand while holding the rear locked in place. Should be pretty difficult to get it to turn. I found out my lesser mileage auto case had almost had zero resistance (bad) where my high mileage manual case still locked nice and firm. I was about to swap parts on the assumption of mileage! I was wrong.

[Phoney36]

Did the bench test as described in last post and everything is nice and tight. Thanks for the description.