24V AWD Swap Knowledge Base

[nomansland92]

Yeah, did you get a new planetary in that thing or what? ;)


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Lol yep it's all fixed, I need to work on getting some videos of a few pulls

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[Eskie]

Yeah, did you get a new planetary in that thing or what? ;)


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[nomansland92]

You're right. I just remembered he used the original ix transfercase in that build. Bummer.

For now......

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[nando]

You're right. I just remembered he used the original ix transfercase in that build. Bummer.

[Eskie]

I thought it was a controller for the DCT but maybe it was for the transfer case


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[nando]

doesn't somebody here already make a controller for the transfercase? The guy that has the M20 turbo/DCT ix has one.

[Eskie]

The ATC-700 looks great for drag racing. Just lock it up and drop the hammer! It's compact, light weight and is straight through from front to rear. It also bolts up to the S6S-53BZ.

However, if you're getting much more in-depth that that, it may take a good bit of tuning (which means input & front/rear output speed sensors, chassis G-meter, maybe some reading of engine torque) to get it to help the car out in corners. Once that's tuned, @$$uming the programmer compensates for clutch wear while keeping it in tune, it will wear the clutch pack and require maintenance on an unknown schedule vs
other potentially maintenance free options.

That would be really sweet. I'd probably experiment with and arduino to see what I could get going but before that I'd probably just have an on/off switch--unlocked/full lock.

[The Dark Side of Will]

The ATC-700 looks great for drag racing. Just lock it up and drop the hammer! It's compact, light weight and is straight through from front to rear. It also bolts up to the S6S-53BZ.

However, if you're getting much more in-depth that that, it may take a good bit of tuning (which means input & front/rear output speed sensors, chassis G-meter, maybe some reading of engine torque) to get it to help the car out in corners. Once that's tuned, @$$uming the programmer compensates for clutch wear while keeping it in tune, it will wear the clutch pack and require maintenance on an unknown schedule vs
other potentially maintenance free options.

[Eskie]

Sorry... I never followed up on this. I received the shaft and it looks... machinable? The spline size certainly is MUCH beefier than the spline size on the stock E30 unit.

I'm not sure what I'll do with it yet. I think the S6S-53BZ is a great option for a transmission, but it'll take some work. I'll have to add a crank sensor boss to the bellhousing to run the S62. I'll have to make a shift arm and shift rod/DSSR. I'm still up in the air about the T-case... whether that's a E30 A95, E34 A110, BW 4472, ATC-700... Or just call up Quaife and see what they say.

Maybe I'll go with an Atlas 4 speed.

My goal is to be able to run stuff that is relatively cheap to replace and can take a punishing. E30ix parts are getting hard to source and I want to be able to go to the drag strip or autocross without worrying about breaking something. Or at lease worry about breaking something that is super hard to find. I'd like to run a M50/M52 turbo with a manual trans like S6S-53BZ or even a dual clutch auto. A front diff from anything newer because they are plentiful and I really haven't seen any failures yet, even in heavy X5M's. The ATC-700 would be nice to run for a transfer case because they are easy to source and if you built a controller you could set the bias between RWD and AWD. That would be a great option for people that daily drive their ix's like I do.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Do you want me to mail you the shaft? I can next week when I get back to work

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Sorry... I never followed up on this. I received the shaft and it looks... machinable? The spline size certainly is MUCH beefier than the spline size on the stock E30 unit.

I'm not sure what I'll do with it yet. I think the S6S-53BZ is a great option for a transmission, but it'll take some work. I'll have to add a crank sensor boss to the bellhousing to run the S62. I'll have to make a shift arm and shift rod/DSSR. I'm still up in the air about the T-case... whether that's a E30 A95, E34 A110, BW 4472, ATC-700... Or just call up Quaife and see what they say.

Maybe I'll go with an Atlas 4 speed.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Grabbed a set of E34 M20 mount arms from eBay... I should be able to give them a shot in three weeks, since they probably won't arrive before next weekend and I'll be at drill the weekend after that.

[The Dark Side of Will]

On a lark I looked up E34 engine mount arms, since that platform held the M20, M50 and M60 engines from the factory. I was expecting they'd be basically the same as E30 mount arms.

The engine mount locations appear to be much closer to the block than on E30's or E39's, by maybe as much as three inches. That *might* put them low enough that they sneak in under the steering shaft. I guess I have to grab a set of each now. They would certainly be easier to use than E53 mount arms, since they're in the same general location as the E30 RWD mounts.

[The Dark Side of Will]

e36 are used for 24v RWD swaps, not e46 (that I am aware of, anyways). Even the s54 uses e36 arms.

Thanks! Didn't know if they were functionally interchangeable for this purpose.

[ForcedFirebird]

e36 are used for 24v RWD swaps, not e46 (that I am aware of, anyways). Even the s54 uses e36 arms.

[The Dark Side of Will]

So, the basic RWD 24V engine swap uses E36 mount arms to mount at the E30 RWD mount locations, right?
The M54 has the same mount pattern as the M50 & M52, right? And the E46 mount arms work as well?

From the information I have now, I will need to do the following:
Buy E36/E46 RWD mount arms.
Buy E53 6 cylinder mount arms.

Have the CMM guy build a report for each one that will show me where the mount pad locations are relative to the bolt pattern on the block.
Are those the right mount arms to select for that method?

Since I have the E30 RWD locations on the crossmember now, I should "just" be able to add E53 mount locations by using the location of the mount pad on the E53 mount arm relative to the location of the mount pad on the E36 mount arm, with both referenced to the block bolt pattern.

The con for using the E53 mount arms is that the E53 mount mounts to a flange on the body side and an angled stud on the mount arm side. The stud is NOT perpendicular to the mount flange. The E53 mount is ~$115 each. I *can* set the crossmember up to use a "normal" mount at the E53 angle... that just adds yet another level of complexity.

What's the "normal" 24V swap engine mount?