Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

24V AWD Swap Knowledge Base

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Eskie
    replied
    Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
    The Quaife for a Z3 1.9 bolts into the E53 front diff.

    A Quaife doesn't necessarily make them both turn the same speed... it just keeps the inside from lighting up.
    Ahh I see. I just re-read where you mentioned reading it off the front sprocket. I bet it wouldn't be that hard to drill a hole and weld a bung for one of those threaded hall effect sensors. I guess you could put it on either the transfer case or front diff. You wouldn't need a missing tooth to read speed right?

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    The Quaife for a Z3 1.9 bolts into the E53 front diff.

    A Quaife doesn't necessarily make them both turn the same speed... it just keeps the inside from lighting up.

    Leave a comment:


  • Eskie
    replied
    Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
    In a corner... maybe? Could average the left and right front wheel speeds and multiply by the diff ratio to get the front driveshaft speed.

    Driving the stepper motor wouldn't be a big problem... just have to have a quad driver that can handle enough current.

    My project is to drop an S62 into an E30 iX. The car will end up front heavy. I intend to use a Quaife front diff and open rear to get the car to turn. Applying enough torque to the front driveshaft to make that Quaife useful will be very important.


    Which front diff housing are you planning on running? When you say quaife, your taking about a limited slip unit? With a LSD in the front you could get a pretty good wheel speed reading from one corner. I say this because with a LSD both front axles should be turning relatively the same speed, right? I guess other options would be to run a speed sensor off the front driveshaft probably.

    Regardless an S62 awd e30 is going to be crazy. The heavy ass E39 that the engine is in is already nuts.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    In a corner... maybe? Could average the left and right front wheel speeds and multiply by the diff ratio to get the front driveshaft speed.

    Driving the stepper motor wouldn't be a big problem... just have to have a quad driver that can handle enough current.

    My project is to drop an S62 into an E30 iX. The car will end up front heavy. I intend to use a Quaife front diff and open rear to get the car to turn. Applying enough torque to the front driveshaft to make that Quaife useful will be very important.

    Leave a comment:


  • Eskie
    replied
    Could you use one of the front wheel speed sensors for front input?

    As far as getting it to lock and unlock I could probably figure out how to drive it. I’ve driven stepper motors with an arduino before. I have a torn down ATC transfer case that I should start messing with. I could try to build a driver and mess with it on the bench.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
    (which means input & front/rear output speed sensors, chassis G-meter, maybe some reading of engine torque)
    Duh moment: input and rear output speed will always be the same. This could be substituted using the VSS from the rear diff with zero additional hardware in the car. One could probably use a sensor to read the teeth on the front output sprocket to get front output speed. But after that it would still need steering angle, chassis G's and probably something to do with engine load/torque output.

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by Eskie View Post
    That would be really sweet. I'd probably experiment with and arduino to see what I could get going but before that I'd probably just have an on/off switch--unlocked/full lock.
    It has to be an ardruino or similar because the clutch is controlled by a stepper motor. Even with just a "lock/unlock" switch, there would need to be some logic to step the motor in until it stopped, then stop trying to drive it... then step the motor back out until it was at the other end of its travel.

    Nisse, I think, noted some type of European controller. I asked about its capabilities, and he said it was limited to "Locked" and "Unlocked".

    Leave a comment:


  • nomansland92
    replied
    Originally posted by Eskie View Post
    Yeah, did you get a new planetary in that thing or what? ;)


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Lol yep it's all fixed, I need to work on getting some videos of a few pulls

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • Eskie
    replied
    Yeah, did you get a new planetary in that thing or what? ;)


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • nomansland92
    replied
    Originally posted by nando View Post
    You're right. I just remembered he used the original ix transfercase in that build. Bummer.
    For now......

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    You're right. I just remembered he used the original ix transfercase in that build. Bummer.

    Leave a comment:


  • Eskie
    replied
    I thought it was a controller for the DCT but maybe it was for the transfer case


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    doesn't somebody here already make a controller for the transfercase? The guy that has the M20 turbo/DCT ix has one.

    Leave a comment:


  • Eskie
    replied
    Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
    The ATC-700 looks great for drag racing. Just lock it up and drop the hammer! It's compact, light weight and is straight through from front to rear. It also bolts up to the S6S-53BZ.

    However, if you're getting much more in-depth that that, it may take a good bit of tuning (which means input & front/rear output speed sensors, chassis G-meter, maybe some reading of engine torque) to get it to help the car out in corners. Once that's tuned, @$$uming the programmer compensates for clutch wear while keeping it in tune, it will wear the clutch pack and require maintenance on an unknown schedule vs
    other potentially maintenance free options.
    That would be really sweet. I'd probably experiment with and arduino to see what I could get going but before that I'd probably just have an on/off switch--unlocked/full lock.

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    The ATC-700 looks great for drag racing. Just lock it up and drop the hammer! It's compact, light weight and is straight through from front to rear. It also bolts up to the S6S-53BZ.

    However, if you're getting much more in-depth that that, it may take a good bit of tuning (which means input & front/rear output speed sensors, chassis G-meter, maybe some reading of engine torque) to get it to help the car out in corners. Once that's tuned, @$$uming the programmer compensates for clutch wear while keeping it in tune, it will wear the clutch pack and require maintenance on an unknown schedule vs
    other potentially maintenance free options.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X