Spring rates etc

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  • TehRaydarlover
    replied
    Invoice was for $1860 plus the cost of shipping my struts to GC. It was right around $1900 door to door. Practically the same as what my beater ix cost me lol.

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  • Kershaw
    replied
    Seriously. That's a pretty penny.

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  • slc325ix
    replied
    Originally posted by TehRaydarlover
    They came! Look so nice. Camber plates and rear strut mounts, GC custom valued Koni struts, 440F 680R springs.

    What did that wind costing you?

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  • TehRaydarlover
    replied
    They came! Look so nice. Camber plates and rear strut mounts, GC custom valued Koni struts, 440F 680R springs.

    Last edited by TehRaydarlover; 09-12-2016, 09:50 AM.

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  • Nisse Järnet
    replied
    I dont think the race inserts is too stiff? I started with them on the softest setting but had to stiffen them up a few "clicks" to stop the car from being to bouncey :)

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  • TehRaydarlover
    replied
    Cool, I was surprised it was only $300 more to send them in and have them shorten, reinforce the housings, powdercoat and assemble everything vs. Sending me the parts to do it. The first guy I talked to "Devon" said that they actually remove the strut tube and weld in a new one

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  • nando
    replied
    Sounds good to me. The race inserts are pretty stiff, although it rides like a Cadillac compared to the custom valved Bilsteins.

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  • TehRaydarlover
    replied
    bump :)

    Ordering my coilovers from GC

    They suggested getting their custom valved koni struts and 440F 680R springs. I'm having them shorten them by 2" and using their camber plates & RSM.

    Anyone familiar with their custom valving vs the standard sport or race insert? GC said they are valved to be in between sport and race as far as aggressiveness but have be more adjustable than the sport. The spring rates sound about right from reading above and talking with GC.

    Any other advice before I send them in?

    Thanks!
    Ray
    Last edited by TehRaydarlover; 07-18-2016, 02:55 PM.

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  • Nisse Järnet
    replied
    OK sounds promising! :) I'll try with the parts I have first, hopefully it works great! And I'm mostly driving on the street on normal tires.

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  • nando
    replied
    that picture was with H&R sports and race slicks, and basically the peak of my driving career.. lol. coilover springs will easily solve it, the rear springs in that case were too soft as were the overall rates. too much weight shift to the rear, too much body roll. I haven't had that issue in years (I think I switched to coilovers in 2008?).

    also, my ix isn't stock. But I do suppose it has slightly less power than his turbo. :p

    what you have posted above should work great. you could also make swaybars to upgrade the roll stiffness if you wanted.

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  • Nisse Järnet
    replied
    Whats the best way to solve this, stiffer front springs and no front swaybar?

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  • mw044
    replied
    Originally posted by nando
    yes.

    I wouldn't worry about front innner tires lifting. if that happens it just means you're driving the car properly...

    I'm the one that Nisse Järnet mentioned, that had problems with lifting front wheel. That is actually not OK with 4wd that has enough power to spin the wheels. With stock ix, no problems.. :D

    When your spring rates are setup in a way that car wants to lift the front wheel, then the front power escapes from that wheel and car basicly becomes rwd. That causes huge oversteer. When you countersteer that, car shoots towards the tangent when front wheel again hits the ground.

    Look closely to this picture (which wheel is off the ground?):

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  • nando
    replied
    Shortened?

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  • nrubenstein
    replied
    For the rear, I'd run the standard GC shortened Koni.

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  • Nisse Järnet
    replied
    What Koni shock should i run in the rear? Any tips? :)

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