I was wondering if u jointed front drive shaft would be possible? A u joint at the diff side possibly?
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U jointed front drive shaft possible?
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Why?
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Saab/GM tech2 programming
My for sale thread
1990 325iX for sale or part out
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Originally posted by K20RI_211And I have to ask if you make a hobby out of thread-bombing with retarded questions?
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There probably isn't enough room for the yoke anyway
Sent from SPACE using Tapatalk 2FS NY: two Audiobahn A235HC amps and audiobahn 1farad capacitor
Saab/GM tech2 programming
My for sale thread
1990 325iX for sale or part out
Did you buy something from me? Please leave feedback!
Originally posted by K20RI_211And I have to ask if you make a hobby out of thread-bombing with retarded questions?
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I would rather spend the time to figure out a $50 replacement for the iX rear u-joint.FS NY: two Audiobahn A235HC amps and audiobahn 1farad capacitor
Saab/GM tech2 programming
My for sale thread
1990 325iX for sale or part out
Did you buy something from me? Please leave feedback!
Originally posted by K20RI_211And I have to ask if you make a hobby out of thread-bombing with retarded questions?
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I have a crazy idea about the front diff, I'm turboing my ix and I know the front diff is the weak Link. I typically get ahead of myself on these things and that's why I'm already asking. Basically I was looking at building a awd c10 and looked into the trailblazer awd ss they have a setup similar to the ix with a transfer case and a front diff bolted to the oil pan. Now this is where it gets crazy. I was thinking it may be possible to build a custom oil pan that would allow the trailblazer ss front diff to be bolted to. And have custom cv axles with trailblazer inners and ix outers. I know it won't be cheap but the front diffs have held 800+ hp/tq. I ask about the drive shaft because the front diff has a u joint connection.
Here is the tbss oil pan
And here is the front diff
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well that's an interesting idea. but arent you going to need to put the ix drivetrain into a jig to keep it straight so the oilpan can be created so that the diff mounts perfectly in the right spot?
sounds like a lot of money. and ix front diffs are $250-300. you can blow through probably 10 of them before you reach that fabrication level of money.AWD > RWD
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Just use the E53 oil sump and front drive assembly... it's the same as the back end of a Z3 4 cylinder; and much stronger than the original iX.
As for u-jointed driveshaft:
Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View PostProgress on u-jointed driveshaft:
Bought one of Jute91's driveshaft repair fittings and had a local machinist press and weld a BMW 4 bolt flange onto it.
The diff and driveshaft are from an E46 front. With this flange, either the E46 driveshaft can be shortened OR a Jags That Run 1310 u-joint yoke for the BMW 4 bolt flange can be used with a custom driveshaft.
FIRST, setting up the driveshaft this way allows a repaired E30 driveshaft to be installed and removed WITHOUT dropping the transfer case or the diff.
HOWEVER, this flange is in slightly the wrong place. It needs to be cut off and moved closer to the splines (and the repair fitting trimmed) in order to clear the oil pan on the 4HP22. ALSO, the flange does not clear the transmission tunnel, which needs to be "persuaded" a bit.
Here's the repair fitting with female flange and the male flange from the E46 driveshaft:
Here's the modded E30 driveshaft with male fitting and E46 driveshaft with male fitting:
Here's the repair fitting with female flange and the E46 differential with female input flange:
Here's the repair fitting with female flange and modded E30 driveshaft with male flange:
Here's the assembly with a naked T-case sprocket:
The flange needs to be reworked to move to the right in this photo in order to clear the auto trans oil pan.
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I bought the stub shaft from jute91 ( http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=276152 ) and gave a local machinist directions for the rest of what I wanted.
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