Hello so I have a 89 325ix that needs a complete rebuild top and bottom. I took it to a shop that specializes in e30s and they quoted me around 6-8k plus labor for the engine rebuild and another 3k+ in others items like brakes bushings. I honestly was not expecting to cost that much. What's so special about the 325 ix that it costs that much more to rebuild? Also they said that it will need larger Pistons due to the block work and they said that nobody sells them so they would need to custom order them? How true is that? Also rear axles are going to be expensive because nobody sells them anymore? The car was supposed to be for my wife, but now I am not sure what I should do. Can I please get some advice/ideas on what I should do?
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$6-8k installed should be more like it. I just did one at my shop and was less than $8k including rebuild, balance, new pistons, installation, o-ring the block and ARP head studs. This was a RWD e30, so labor on an ix installation would be higher (about 3.7hrs more for an ix engine change according to the shop manuals).
Internally, it's the same m20 as in the 325i, and pistons are available new (OEM Mahle brand, even) for about $550. While expensive, OEM axles are still available (GKN brand) for about $275 each, stay away from the $100 local parts store axles, they won't last a year - could even have yours rebuilt.
Not sure who this shop is, but perhaps you should check out some other places.Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 02-28-2018, 04:23 PM. -
An engine rebuild is an expensive proposition. Much cheaper and easier to get a used working engine and just swap that in. Maybe do the head gasket and timing belt while the engine is out.AWD > RWDComment
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It is. People look at me as if I had three heads when I quote a full rebuild at the shop. Nice thing about hiring a shop, though, is you get a warranty and have receipts if you ever need proof for a sale etc. Being an honest business, I have told many customers to do the every same thing, and just find a donor engine we can toss in.Originally posted by Kershaw View PostComment
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Yeah. I don't think people realize how much work goes into even just rebuilding the head.AWD > RWDComment
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what? just hot-tank the thing, throw in some new seals/gaskets, and *maybe* scuff the head surface? Come on it's not that much work.
(kidding kidding!)
Funny thing is the M20 head is a peice of cake compared to the 24 stuff. Not to mention the N52 I'm building. Good lord. I think half the engine's weight is in the head alone.. and there are 8x as many moving parts. :pComment
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Thank for your responses. I am looking at couple different options. I considered removing the engine myself and taking it to a machine shop for a rebuild. I am planning on keeping this car for a while so I would like to have a fresh engine in it. I did look at the for sale section and did not see much for ix. If someone has a fresh engine for sale please let me know.Comment
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I’d be curious to know how the shop knows you need the cylinders bored..? It’s possible it only needs new rings. That would save a bunch of money.
Also, did the shop give you numbers pertaining to the results of both compression and leak down tests?
Lastly, take a look at this thread regarding rear axles:
Last edited by EyExR; 03-05-2018, 01:03 PM.Comment
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Yes on the compression test 1-120 2-122 3-90 4-138 5-110 6-108Originally posted by EyExR View Post
The leak down test they said they did and it was not holdings any air/too many leaks. The shop is CAtuned you might heard of it.Comment
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So, the answer is that $6-8k is the cost to rebuild an M20.
There is nothing special about rebuilding an iX engine. The machine work and labor will kill you on this. That's just what it is.2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black
Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd
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The compression results are certainly not good. But when a shop does a leak down test I'd want to know where the air was escaping from -- the expansion tank, valves, or into the crankcase. And there's no way (that I'm aware of anyway) to know if your cyclinders need to be re-bored without a machine shop checking them for roundness. It's just jumping the gun and assumptive .Originally posted by Akrunner View PostComment
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You can see the cylinder walls when you pull the plugs to do the compression/leak down tests. They might be round, but scratched up.Originally posted by EyExR View Post
Either way, you are correct. I have never done a leak down test only to say "it's leaking too much to know".
OP, you might want to get a second opinion. With compression numbers that low, you very well could have bent valves. Actually would only cost you a few dollars to purchase a compression tester yourself and see if oil in the cylinders brings it back up (indicating rings).Comment
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Good info. I wouldn’t have thought to look through the plug holes. But would also think that scratches would mean a hone but not necessarily bore.Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View PostComment
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A hone should never be more than .001" of material removed (.002" on a fresh bore). The piston to wall clearance in an m20 is <.001" when new, so anything more than glaze removal and you really should over bore.Originally posted by EyExR View Post
Remember, one size over (.25mm or ~.009") is about as thick as 3 sheets of copy paper - and since we are talking clearance, you have to divide that number by two sides.
Basically, if it catches your fingernail at all, it should be machined.Comment
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