Brights?

[StereoInstaller1]

Well, don't bother fucking around with the switch or the relay, it cannot be either.

What the fuck, am I the only person who can read a diagram? Or maybe just the only one who is willing to help AND read a diagram.

It CAN NOT be the relay, because 1 relay runs both high beams, another relay runs both low beams. It can be any point after the relay (fuses, wiring, fuse block, connectors, splices) as L and R split before the fuses.

Go download your ETM FIRST, then look at page 6312-0.

L Hi: White/Violet (fuse 1)
L Lo: Yellow/White (Fuse 13)

R Hi:White/Blue (Fuse 2)
R Lo:Yellow/Blue (Fuse 14)

See a pattern there? Now go LOOK AT THE DAMN DIAGRAM!

This shit ain't rocket surgery, boys.

Luke

[GunMetalGrey]

Ok, so I also bought new headlights, just half of them though, one high beam, one low. I am waiting for the relay, I will try that first. I have been busy lately so I would put in the lights, but don't really have time right now.

[StereoInstaller1]

Guys, just so you know, my '87 325iS has a broken wire somewhere under the core support.

I had to jumper across to get the low beam to work, as I have not taken it apart to fix it properly.

This is exactly the same issue I had, same side and everything.

[DaveSmed]

Oh my.


My money is on the fuse, especially if they are the OE style.

Reasoning? The pictures above show that the right hand inner and outer high beam filaments are dark. Could they both be burned out? Maybe. But the fuse (which happens to control just the affected lighting...) would be a much more likely guess.

The OE fuses can not be visually checked.

Scratch that.

NO fuses can be visually checked except to confirm a bad one. You can not confirm a good fuse visually.

[NC325iC]

DUDE!

easy way to check, use the GOOD LOW BEAM YOU HAVE TO CHECK, just hook it up on the other side and if it works tada solution

i thought i made it pretty clear in my post the way you should go about this. r3v while at times can be a pile of fucktards without any useful input there are those of us out there that try to give serious advice not just sarcasm and bull shit.

if you dont want to do the multimeter way just swap the known good low beam to the other side and test it that way. if you do that you'll know for sure if its the bulb or the wiring

[nando]

I'm chill, I was just trying to make it clear.

the bulb is probably $20. now you'll have spent $30 instead of $20. hmm.

so you tested it with a multimeter - and? there's two filaments. the low filament obviously works. I can *see* in the pictures that the high is burned out.

[GunMetalGrey]

it's not the relay.

I'll say it one more time - YOUR PASSENGER SIDE LOWBEAM IS BURNED OUT

Chill out dude, I'm going to try the 10 dollar fix first, then replace the bulb ( I already checked the bulbs though, and they were fine.)

[nando]

it's not the relay.

I'll say it one more time - YOUR PASSENGER SIDE LOWBEAM IS BURNED OUT

[GunMetalGrey]

I got like five

Want to hook me up?

[bmwm42]

I got like five

[GunMetalGrey]

Ok, so the local shops in the area cannot find the proper relay, i need relay k3. someone want to help me out here? google search resulted in random things.

[GunMetalGrey]

Getting new bulbs, inners and outers, and a new relay later, so we can go through all the possible problems right away, even though the bulbs all came up on the multimeter fine.

[dkbmxer002]

i didn't even read the replies at first but i see most seem to agree. good luck if it isn't the bulbs but if i were you i would start there..

[accident]

for the love of fuck, buy new lights.

[NC325iC]

Hey there friend, I see youre completely ignoring nando. not ususally a good plan as hes a pretty smart guy.

Heres what you need to do, with that relay that you think is wrong in place, get a multi meter and unhook your suspect low beam. There should be 3 wires here if im not mistaken, turn on your low beams and measure the voltage of the wires, one of them should read 12V, the other 2 should read 0. Now turn on your highbeams and measure the remaining 2 wires, one of them should read 12V if the system is functioning properly.

If you find that with the high beams on one of the wires reads 12V, get a new lowbeam cause its burnt out.

If you find you still get 0 reading, get a new relay and try again.

and lastly i think your high beam on that side is just plain burnt out, you could check by using the one from the other side that you know works.