Early model electric windows problem - maybe...

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  • MikkoR
    Noobie
    • Feb 2024
    • 13

    #1

    Early model electric windows problem - maybe...

    I'm just doing conversion from manual to electric windows. The co-driver actuator is already installed, wiring is missing but powering it directly by a battery will move the window smoothly.

    But.

    How it is supposed to behave when the window reaches its upper limit? Should the motor stop or - just like in my case - should the motor continue to run and the mechanism just rattle as the gear is "slipping"?
  • 82eye
    E30 Mastermind
    • Jan 2009
    • 1936

    #2
    it stops the second you take your finger off the trigger switch.

    Comment

    • MikkoR
      Noobie
      • Feb 2024
      • 13

      #3
      Ok. Badly written question. But what if I keep the button pressed after the window has reached its top position?

      Comment

      • reelizmpro
        R3V OG
        • Dec 2003
        • 9481

        #4
        I know what you are describing and that isn't normal. Once the window is all the way up, there is no noise or teeth slipping.
        "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

        85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
        88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
        89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
        91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

        Comment

        • MikkoR
          Noobie
          • Feb 2024
          • 13

          #5
          Ok. Then some actions are needed...

          Comment

          • MikkoR
            Noobie
            • Feb 2024
            • 13

            #6
            The driver window actuator gear is slipping when pushing against the lower limiter. And I think the co-driver mechanism is mirrored (can't see it atm) because it is slipping at the upper position. The gear system is shown in the linked picture. When going down the gear is turning counterclockwise. The gear is a helical gear and when going counterclockwise the gear pushes the "spring" downwards due to the geometry. Because there is a little slack (video) there is room for the gear to start slipping. I think this might be the case, or there is too much tolerance at the contact point. I may try to squeeze the tube a little from the lower side, so that at the contact point there won't be such a slack.

            Or just somehow get the spring and gear a bit closer to each other at the contact point. This is another possibility.

            May help, or not. But easy to test as this driver side actuator is not installed into the door yet.

            Picture


            Video

            Comment

            • MikkoR
              Noobie
              • Feb 2024
              • 13

              #7
              Ok, the driver side actuator seem to be fixed. Just squeezing a little the snake tube at the contact point removed the little slack between the snake and the gear. When driving the actuator to the lower limit the motor just stops, like it should.

              But. The co-driver side is problematic. The same method did not help, the gear is slipping at the upper limit. In fact nothing will help, since the snake is badly worn at the upper position. There's no way to get it working.

              Plan B. Take the snake from the manual version and replace the worn one with it = cheap, difficult

              At first glance it seems to be quite difficult, or maybe impossible. The window supports won't slide through the curves. At least the front window support has to be removed from the snake, then the snake may slide out from the rear end. But how?
              Has anyone succesfully removed the snake?

              Plan C. Try to attach the motor to the manual one = cheap, difficult

              Plan D. Try to find a working one = expensive

              Comment

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