GE Keyless Question

[JCarp90]

Hello all,

I purchased the GE Keyless system and I got it all installed in my car last night. Everything is wired properly - I'm sure of it. I followed this:



The only part I'm using quick connects on is the ground - everything else I spliced with butt connectors into. What's happening is the lights flash and the box clicks when I unlock/lock the car, but the doors don't actually lock/unlock. My central locking functions and will lock and unlock all doors, but I cannot turn my key much in my driver's door. The trunk and passenger work flawlessly, though. Like I said, all doors will lock/unlock if I do it from the trunk and passenger door.

Could my actual lock cylinder be the issue?

[bmwstephen]

Likely the key cylinder. Although u can double check by pulling the power and ground feed off the alarm thus disabling it to see if you notice a difference

Sent from the heavens

[JCarp90]

Likely the key cylinder. Although u can double check by pulling the power and ground feed off the alarm thus disabling it to see if you notice a difference

Sent from the heavens

It's only keyless. There is no alarm in the car.

Also I mentioned that all of my doors unlock and lock as they should, just not from the drivers door. I guess I'll pulll my door panel and take a look at the cylinder tonight.

[JCarp90]

Went to a soccer game last night so didn't have time to work on it. Anyone have any other ideas?

[ACS Cabrio]

it could be the lock actuator in the drivers door. i installed an avital system and it would try to lock then return to the unlocked position. and when i locked it with the door pin and pressed unlock it tried to unlock then returned to the lock position. i removed the plug from the drivers actuator and it worked as intended. replaced the drivers lock actuator with another and all functions now work properly

[JCarp90]

it could be the lock actuator in the drivers door. i installed an avital system and it would try to lock then return to the unlocked position. and when i locked it with the door pin and pressed unlock it tried to unlock then returned to the lock position. i removed the plug from the drivers actuator and it worked as intended. replaced the drivers lock actuator with another and all functions now work properly

Well, the thing is with mine, the keyless box clicks but the doors do nothing.

I KNOW it's wired correctly and the box is actually sending a signal - it's just not working.

[einstein57]

Have you tested for continuity from the alarm harness connector to the actuator?
The colors that you put on your able don't match mine. Trunk install?

[JCarp90]

Have you tested for continuity from the alarm harness connector to the actuator?
The colors that you put on your able don't match mine. Trunk install?

Yes- Trunk install. Do you mean at the actuator by the drivers door speaker?

[einstein57]

Did you ground the yellow and yellow/black wires?

[JCarp90]

Bumping this as I have some extra time to explore the issue further.

Removing the lock cylinder tonight to clean/inspect. Anybody have any other tips?

[jeffnhiscars]

I've done 2 lock rebuilds in the last month and the problem was never cleaning. The first one had the usual ball groove carved in to the barrel and the one I did this last weekend actually had a broken piece. They both needed to be replaced

I suggest you have a kit on hand. They are not expensive or all that hard to repair.

[Kershaw]

do you have it wired in the trunk?

i swear i had it wired up correctly but it refused to work. same thing. box would click, nothing would lock or unlock. what fixed it was cutting the wires instead of just splicing into them. so it went wire -> |box| -> wire.

[JCarp90]

I've done 2 lock rebuilds in the last month and the problem was never cleaning. The first one had the usual ball groove carved in to the barrel and the one I did this last weekend actually had a broken piece. They both needed to be replaced

I suggest you have a kit on hand. They are not expensive or all that hard to repair.

Pulled my lock tonight and found this:



Ordering 2 lock kits tomorrow and a driver's side actuator as well.

do you have it wired in the trunk?

i swear i had it wired up correctly but it refused to work. same thing. box would click, nothing would lock or unlock. what fixed it was cutting the wires instead of just splicing into them. so it went wire -> |box| -> wire.

I ended up actually cutting the wires and wiring them that way, actually. After having tried butt connectors and no luck, I thought for sure that was the issue. Didn't seem to be the case.

Also for what it's worth, I pulled the central locking module and inspected it for corrosion and it all looked fine. The little fuse thing that usually needs to be re-soldered was in great shape.

Hoping the tumbler issue is causing this.

[jeffnhiscars]

Pulled my lock tonight and found this:

Ordering 2 lock kits tomorrow and a driver's side actuator as well.

I ended up actually cutting the wires and wiring them that way, actually. After having tried butt connectors and no luck, I thought for sure that was the issue. Didn't seem to be the case.

Also for what it's worth, I pulled the central locking module and inspected it for corrosion and it all looked fine. The little fuse thing that usually needs to be re-soldered was in great shape.

Hoping the tumbler issue is causing this.

My lock looked just as nasty. If you turn the key you should see the double lock leg "bounce" a bit which will tell you the ball has done its damage. Either way, its out and a good thing to replace.

Here are a couple of links that really helped me.

http://e30world.com/body/BMW-E30-lock-cylinder-repair

http://www.billswebspace.com/BMWE30DoorPanelRemoval-LockCylinderRebuild.htm

I would also encourage you to install the new lock before you replace the actuator and do not..I repeat DO NOT...ever re-solder that thermal fuse with new solder. I won a dumb-ass award by frying all my actuators doing that :-)

[JCarp90]

My lock looked just as nasty. If you turn the key you should see the double lock leg "bounce" a bit which will tell you the ball has done its damage. Either way, its out and a good thing to replace.

Here are a couple of links that really helped me.

http://e30world.com/body/BMW-E30-lock-cylinder-repair

http://www.billswebspace.com/BMWE30DoorPanelRemoval-LockCylinderRebuild.htm

I would also encourage you to install the new lock before you replace the actuator and do not..I repeat DO NOT...ever re-solder that thermal fuse with new solder. I won a dumb-ass award by frying all my actuators doing that :-)

That's pretty much exactly what the lock did. Thanks for the info.

Also, thanks for the tip about the actuator. +1 internets for you.